Weight Difference: K vs L Frame?

[Milton]

A question for you that actually evaluate such things: apart from the barrel differences what are the main differences in the L and K frame guns especially as concerns weight?What I really want to know is there a way to safely cut weight off my 686 to make it approach the weight and balance of a model 67?

 

[OKFC05]

Just buy an SSR, which is about 2 oz over with similar balance. (36oz vs 38.3oz)
No steel L frame is going to cut down to the same weight as a steel K with the same barrel length.


Product: Model 686 SSR

 

[Bastogne71]

It depends which M67 and which M686. My model 67 no dash weighs 31.6 ounces empty. S&W lists their 4" model 686 six shot at 39.7 ounces. Half pound difference. Heavier barrel profile and the full underlug makes up a lot of the added weight. Rubber versus wood stocks add some more weight.

If you're comparing new production revolvers, then OKFC05 is correct. Get a SSR.

 

[Toblerra]

The difference in weight between a 4" k frame (36 oz) and a 3" l frame (36.8 oz) is .8 oz or .05 lbs. The weight difference between a 2.5" k frame (30.5 oz) and the 3" 686 l frame is 6.3 oz or .39 lbs.

There is little to no difference in accuracy between a 4" and 3" revolver. So apart from very special applications i.e. competition, the difference in weight between the 4" k frame and 3" l frame is negligible. The difference in weight between the 2.5" k and the 3" l is worth considering if you intend to carry a lot (the k frames sleeker design, we're talking mm's by the way, slightly aids in concealment) but less than a half pound of weight is not worth chopping up the l frame in my opinion. Especially when you consider the l frames design was intended to shoot magnum loads, a much more effective round than the .38 spl, without potentially damaging the gun. When you get into longer barrels, i.e. 6" the difference is more notable but those guns are not intended for carry so much as hunting and range use. Hope this is helpful.

 

[Milton]

So's ,just to compare apples to oranges,I am holding in my hands a 4 inch 686 no dash and a Model 67 no dash.I have no problem carrying that 67,the 686 is another matter.
As to buying another revolver;I am retired and pretty much can not buy new right now.

 

[UncleEd]

For some (me!) the Model 67 weighs a lot less than a Model 586, both 4-inch barrels.

It's in the feel of the two guns, the 67 (or Model 15) with the tapered barrel as opposed to a "bull" barrel with full underlug.


(A current production Model 67 has the bullish barrel of what used to be the Model 14--cut to 4 inches. In that regard, the new 67s will probably feel about the same as the older 67s since neither have the full underlug. A really stark comparison is to hold first the Model 10 standard barrel 4 incher and than the bull barrel 4 incher. Slight dimensional changes in any gun can affect one's viewpoint of what they are, regardless
the actual weights.)

 

[epj]

Not only is the L frame heavier, to me the balance is completely different. Honestly, I prefer the K frame. Actually, I also have a 4" N frame 627, and I prefer it to the 686 due to the balance. They both weigh just about the same as I recall.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

I have to agree with epj. I much prefer my 2" K frames to my 2.5" or 3" L frames. The 4" L frame is different; it balances better and just feels better. But it's SO BIG I'd never carry it concealed but I have carried it openly whilst hunting feral hogs in a great belt holster made by Dave Workman.

 

[Milton]

Thanks everybody,I guess I will get out my file and see if I can make my 4 inch 686 a 4 inch ,much lighter K type frame!!

 

[OKFC05]

Thanks everybody,I guess I will get out my file and see if I can make my 4 inch 686 a 4 inch ,much lighter K type frame!!

Can't wait to see how you handle the larger diameter cylinder and front frame......

 

[Milton]

There ain't much you can't "fix" as long as you got a file a hammer and a Dremel tool!!!!

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Ok. How bout:
Options!!!
#1- get a model 66 k frame! 36 oz.! Nice!

#2- remove the half lug on that L frame and see if you can get /fit a half lug 4" barrel! (If there are as many options for N frames; im sure somebody knows what barrel can fit what..)

#3- titanium cylinder? Do they have a 6 shot L frame titanium cylinder? It'll be lighter.....better?

But please put the dremmel away! You can also trade your gun for something you need.

Im afraid my post has more questions than answers. ...

 

[Goblin]

Tell us the condition and dash number of your 686 and we'll tell you how many dollars you could have to put against the gun you really want to own. It will save you about $300 in files and dremel bits.

 

[Toblerra]

Please post a pic when your done.

 

[7shooter]

K frames just feel right. Everything you need . Nothing you don't.

 

[Cleveland48]

To me the K frame is the is the best feeling, but I do love the 686 too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Milton]

Not to worry!!! I don't even keep my Dremel in the same room as my revolvers!!I just like the weight/balance of the K frame especially now that I am getting older.

 

[scruffy]

If you handle them side by side, you can easily feel the difference. For me it was not the weight as much as it is how it feels. Although dimensions are similar the K frame just feels smaller and fit my hand much better than the L frame. Almost like a J-frame on steroids.

 

[oger]

I agree about the feel of a K frame, it just feels right especially the short barreled round butt.

 

[steelslaver]

If you wanted to you could remove some weight form any S&W revolver.

Drill lots of small holes in the grip fame.

Mill off and contour the shroud until just the locking lug is left. Mill off and rib and only leave the front sight and a skinny base. You could even use radius mills to taper the barrel. Make the barrel profile that of a tapered barrel model 10 or M&P.

Reprofile the front of the frame and the crane below the barrel frame
junction.

Widen out the radius of the cylinder flutes a bit. Find a titanium cylinder if one fits that model.

Have it ported would take off at least 1/4 oz.

Thin up the trigger guard.

All could be nicely done, polished and given a nice finish.

Or you could simply get a gun that was in the weight range you want.

My 396 doesn't weigh squat, probably near the weight of my 3" model 36. An alloy L frame in 357 (386) would be very light too.