Well hell, NOW I know what ya’ll were talking about!

[sigp220.45]

I've owned 5 K-frame .22 revolvers. A pre-17, a Model 17, and two Model 18s. I hated them all.

Each of them was hard to load, and nearly impossible to reload. Until I started to bring a rubber mallet to the range I had an ejector rod shaped bruise on my left palm from trying to just get the empties out so I could fight to get more rounds in.

I swore off.

One day, I had the chance to buy a K-22 and K-38 from the same era, treasured heirlooms from a deceased PawPaw, traded in for 500 bucks credit towards a Glock 43X with a red dot. I got them both for 450 each.

The K-38 was as expected - perfect.

The K-22? Also perfect!

I had it at the range today - easy in, easy out, nice little groups at the length of the indoor range. The guy in the next lane stuck his head around and said - S***, I thought you were shooting a rifle!

No more for me, this one is it.

 

[LI Ammo]

I have an old K17 masterpiece, when I got it, it was way too tight. I had to tap each round into the cylinder and the back out with a dowel. So I polished it with some super light compound on a dremel polishing felt.
Made it like new smooth as butter to load and unload. I think it just had too much old lead buildup on an already tight cylinder hole.

 

[glenwolde]

It's a common issue..

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...r-reaming-cylinder.html?683832=#post141537527

 

[arjay]

I bought a 5 screw model 18 several years ago,the only Smith 22 I've owned and no problems at all. I better keep this one!

 

[ColbyBruce]

I had a 1953 CM .22 that I bought dirt cheap and never liked it. I sold it to a forum member who kept it about a year then sold it himself. I prefer the S&W 63 I bought that was thrown from a moving vehicle.

 

[Igiveup]

I've had two M17's and two M18's. One of each went to the gunsmith for reaming, tight chambers. Well worth it, as they are fine revolvers. As said above, a common problem, just don't weaken.

 

[StrawHat]

The sticky chambers can be cleaned up with a finish reamer.

Kevin

 

[Goldstar225]

I recently bought a pre-17 K-22 to replace one I traded off many years ago. The chambers aren't a problem but the B/C gap is so tight that after 50 rounds I have trouble cocking it single action. I'm going to rent the breech facing cutter and 11 degree forcing cone tool from 4d reamer rentals to open it up to .004-.005.

 

[S&W-Keeper]

I feel your pain. I have a model18,and a pre 17.They do not like cheap bulk ammo. I hsve have to tap the cases out.

 

[Elroy]

The sticky chambers can be cleaned up with a finish reamer.

Kevin

While I fully agree that a correctly piloted finish reamer would relieve your sticky extraction problem. Those reamers are not cheap and for a novice home machinists, holds the potential to damage the cylinder beyond repair.

Elroy would recommend (especially for the novice gunsmith) using a small bore "flex hone". These small bore abrasive brushes are readily available, cost a small fraction of a ream and offer both inherent safety and the ability to sneak up on the final diameter that would yield satisfactory results. Just a suggestion as your mileage may vary .

 

[StrawHat]

While I fully agree that a correctly piloted finish reamer would relieve your sticky extraction problem. Those reamers are not cheap and for a novice home machinists, holds the potential to damage the cylinder beyond repair.

Elroy would recommend (especially for the novice gunsmith) using a small bore "flex hone". These small bore abrasive brushes are readily available, cost a small fraction of a ream and offer both inherent safety and the ability to sneak up on the final diameter that would yield satisfactory results. Just a suggestion as your mileage may vary .

Elroy,

Many threads on reamer rentals and how to use them have been posted on this forum. CAN you mess up a chamber using one? Of course, just as improper use of a hone will result in bad results.

Enough members have reamed their own chambers that it is a proven technique. All it takes is reading, following directions and common sense.

Or, there are folks who will gladly do it for you.

Kevin

 

[handejector]

I prefer the S&W 63 I bought that was thrown from a moving vehicle.

I would call UPS and complain about that!!!!

 

[steelslaver]

While I fully agree that a correctly piloted finish reamer would relieve your sticky extraction problem. Those reamers are not cheap and for a novice home machinists, holds the potential to damage the cylinder beyond repair.

Elroy would recommend (especially for the novice gunsmith) using a small bore "flex hone". These small bore abrasive brushes are readily available, cost a small fraction of a ream and offer both inherent safety and the ability to sneak up on the final diameter that would yield satisfactory results. Just a suggestion as your mileage may vary .

There is a reamer making the rounds of forum members for postage. Plus, you can rent one from 4D reamer rentals. Reamers are far more precision than any hone.They are not hard to use. Plenty of cutting oil, very light pressure and always turn to the right. With the piloted tip you would have apply a lot of side pressure to cause it to cut wrong. If you cant run a finish reamer in a chamber, you should not be using a hone either. Side pressure on one of them will cause a out of round chamber.

 

[chief38]

Between new laws & regulations being passed every month, the expense and rarity of excellent Gun Smiths, their backlogged work and last but not least the hassle and expenses of shipping, it is way past due for us to be doing our own work if one has not already done done so!

There are many that are probably capable but just afraid they will screw up and ruin their prized possession. There are those who should never touch a screwdriver, but many jobs are actually easy, simple and if the person doing the work has the patience and desire to do it, and they are willing to take the time, trouble and effort to do so, there are many benefits! We are on a one way train and the old ways of just letting a pro do it are rapidly coming to an end because of scarcity, expense and restrictions.

I suggest starting on the least valuable example and working your way up. I'd suggest getting some descent quality tools, videos and shop manuals and start doing at least the simple work. Who knows, you might actually enjoy it!! YMMV - just a suggestion, but it's time not to be afraid to fail!

 

[steelslaver]

Years ago I bought a finish worn 10-2 with a cracked forcing cone. I learned a whole lot from the gun. I changed out the barrel, I polished some spots. I reamed the cylinder to 357, then I installed a 357 cylinder and to do that had to trim the barrel extension, then I milled it for adjustable sights and installed a 2 1/2" 357 barrel. It still shots and functions. It would not be worth much to most people, but I got a real valuable education from it.

 

[ColbyBruce]

I would call UPS and complain about that!!!!

Some poor, misguided youth who most certainly was on the verge of turning his life around threw it out of a vehicle during a pursuit. If UPS (at least my current and last three delivery people) had tossed it I doubt the factory could of repaired it.

 

[sigp220.45]

I agree renting a reamer is the way to deal with sticky/impossible extraction. A while back I did a thread on a Model 63 that had received a Dremel tool fix from a previous owner that made it unusable. I'm a complete bonehead regarding skilled metalworking of any kind, but even I was able to work a rented 4D reamer and turn it into a highly enjoyable .22 Magnum.

I didn't know the reamer trick when I owned the previous .22 Smiths. I figured if this one followed suit I'd rent a .22LR finishing reamer from 4D, but it wasn't necessary.

 

[steelslaver]

Ya it is odd, I have a few Smith 22s and it is really hit or miss as to the rounds insert or eject. My first was a 18-4 and it devoured everything I stuck in it and ejected every one you could run several bricks of any brand through it and thumb them right out. A 17-3 was sticky.

As I have said before I think it is all about where the reamers were in their life cycle when yours was done. A nice new one and its all good. One near the end of what the factor calculated as the life cycle of the reamer and not so good. I believe somewhere an engineer messed up on how long the 22 reamers would last.

 

[H Richard]

I have had the same experience with K22's from a 1931 Outdoorsman to a 617-6 and several in between including a 34-1 and a 63-1. All were improved with the use of a finishing reamer.

 

[Doug M.]

Elmer Keith mentioned in "Sixguns" that he had trouble with S&W chambers being too tight. I do not recall if it was all the time, or just some - I think it was some and not even consistent on the same revolver.