West German Sig P226 in rough condition

[scoobysnacker]

Yeah, the title says it all. Rough, beater, slide looks like it took a bath in saltwater.

Frame not AS bad, but definitely still seen some wear.
But the slide and frame serials do match, and you can see W Germany stamped on the slide.

What's the consensus on these- are they worth looking at for bargain prices? Hint- that may be a rhetorical question

Seriously- are these considered tough guns, or somewhat fragile? I've seen beaters in other models before, that looked rough but functioned fine. In looking at this, I'm thinking that a bead blast and parkerizing would clean things up a lot, if I were so inclined...

To clarify, it's up on auction, and I went ahead and rolled the dice at a certain amount, and won right at my max amount. It is certainly rough as all get-out, but I'm gambling that it is mostly cosmetic. I definitely plan on new springs, and apparently a new grip screw... we'll go from there based on what I actually find. The seller isn't pulling punches in the description.

 

[max]

I think Sigs are pretty tough. Some of them have gone through many, many rounds. Used ones in not quite so bad shape can be picked up for not a lot of money. I think parts are easy to find. Up to you.

 

[ArmyRover]

They are tough pistols and you can get parts to rebuild them. I wouldn't turn away one in rough shape if it was cheap.

 

[scoobysnacker]

I have no problem with a gun being worn (I tend to say worn and smooth, instead of worn and rough), as long as it is functional. If they run, then I find them to be attractive in an oiled up, "been there done that" fashion.

I do freely admit this one was on the margin of unacceptable in appearance, there's a good bit of rusting and pitting along the left side of the slide. Also appears to be dirty and basically uncleaned as heck.

I also have looked at 9mm Sigs over the years, and the closest I have found in price was the last of the P5's from Wideners at $300, and I've heard those last few were also rough.

I got a parkerized FEG Hipower a few years back, that has evidence of deeper pitting on the slide than this particular Sig. It functions just fine, and the parkerizing did a good job of disguising the damage.

Basic plan on receiving it, first off, will be to clean it very thoroughly, and see if I can do anything with some steel wool and ballistol.

I'll post pics of my new purchase/folly, as soon as I get it.

 

[scoobysnacker]

They are tough pistols and you can get parts to rebuild them. I wouldn't turn away one in rough shape

Rough shape- evidence of rust etching and pitting on the left and top of the slide, the speckles are almost deep enough to obscure the Sig Sauer engraving... but not quite. Blotches and some pitting in the left slide grooves, nothing affecting the functional aspects of the serrations. Looks like the rust had scaled and then was removed, and this is what is left. Very similar to what I have seen in surplus pistols with the infamous "blood splatter" marks.

Right side, not as bad, some blotching in the serrations but not as much, again the evidence of pitting on the top part... looks like a fine light stippling almost.

Frame has a bright spot/scuff on the front of the left side of the trigger guard. A couple of bright spots on the base of the magwell, left corner of the beavertail, a worn edge on the right side. All frame issues look like wear except possibly the trigger guard.

No scratches or gouges, it just looks like it has lived under a car seat for a long, long time.

Missing one of the grip screws on the right grip.

Actually from a distance, it just appears "old". On my desktop, with the pictures being the approximate size of a cellphone or coke can, the frame looks pretty clean and the slide just has the gray patina of a blued gun that has aged (being West German, it is about 30 yrs old in my guess. I have a Star 30MI that is blued and not quite as old, and it has the same color).

if it was cheap.

Just north of $300 with one 15 rd magazine.

 

[scoobysnacker]

Since I have now purchased the pistol, is it acceptable for me to post the auction photos? I don't want to break any rules... but since the gun is now mine, it's just a photo of my property, right?

 

[Fishinfool]

Rough finish condition does not necessarily mean a lot of mechanical wear. Provided the bore is good, it may end up being a good, tight shooter. Sounds like a good candidate for a Parkerizing or DuraCoat finish. I do believe you can post pics once an auction is completed.

Larry

 

[scoobysnacker]

OK... I will pull them if there's a problem, this is in good faith

Not the prettiest Sig around, but $315 made it mine.

There were some detail closeups that show the pits more, but you can tell that the gun is pretty rough. Slide has certainly seen better days. However, as I said before, if it functions like it should, I actually like guns like this. I most likely will just address the trigger guard and give it some thorough TLC.

It fills a slot in my meager collection, beside my Beretta 92FS and CZ 75, at a price I've tried to stay at. I've hunted years for a beaten up P226 at this price range, I finally found one
It won't be my primary gun, but I've wanted one, just to have.

 

[Derosa]

I would have paid the same price without blinking an eye. For a few more dollars, some elbow grease and TLC, it will be good to go.

 

[Seaburry]

I'd field strip and clean and then go straight to the range......great price for a great pistol.......wk

 

[sodacan]

Hope it works out for you.

 

[SPEEDGUNNER]

You got a great pistol at a great price. Two ways to approach this depending on your level of WECSOG, tear it down yourself, thoroughly clean and oil, replace any broken or worn internal parts (readily available from SIG), install a SRT, and go. One more step in the same process would be to Duracote/Ceracote/Reblue/Paint w/Krylon the frame and slide for a nicer appearance. Or, Step 2 would be to send the pistol to SIG and they will do all of that for you. Details are available on their website and the prices really aren't that bad. Here is a link: Custom Shop | Sig Sauer

Good luck, and let us know how you make out.

 

[WVSig]

If you are happy we are happy. Not a bad price considering its condition but not an out of this world steal either but you did OK on price IMHO.

The P226 is an alloy frame so you have to pay particular attention to the rails. The under side of the rails where they contact the slide are the primary wear and trouble spots.

Check out this article about how to inspect and judge the rails. Sig like to be shot wet I use grease and a lot of it on the rails to help protect the gun. None of the wear on the frame would bother me.

Guide to Sig Sauer pistol inspection - Grayguns

The slide looks like it was literally rode hard and put away wet. My #1 concern would be to make sure what caused the rust is gone and that the rust will not continue. I would do my best clear it up. If you have a local who can bead blast it for you I might go that route and then just keep it oiled up or send it to coyotekiller on the Sig forum. Does a ton of Sig work over there using moly resin coatings. He can do your slide for $45. I would consider that route for protect of the gun not really for the looks.

No matter what enjoy it.

 

[Remmark54]

That gun should be fine. Most of my Sigs were trade-in from Europe. All worked great, some looked better than others. I have sent some of them to Sig for an action job and spring replacements. My fav was a 228 that looked like yours. Shot it the best. Put lots of rounds through them all. By the looks of the grips style, I'd say that was an earlier model year. New grips will fit, even the E-2 conversion style, short triggers etc. will all work. I have smaller hands so I like the short trigger. The "short trigger reset" kit should work also if you are interested. These things never seem to die.

 

[samandglove1]

I was never really a Sig guy until I picked up and shot an older W. German P228 a few years ago. I love that gun.

I would have bought your P226 for that price with no hesitation. As soon as it passed my function check, I would have reached into my pocket for cash.

 

[WVSig]

The P228 is my all time favorite Sig. This is my most recent P228 which cost a bit more than $300.

 

[Arik]

Bottom of the dust cover will have a 2 letter date code. Not all W. German guns actually came from W. Germany. After German reunification there were still plenty of slides left with the W. German markings. The Germans didn't bother scrubbing them since it really didn't play a re in anything. I have a W. German 220 that was made in 1995

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[ArmyRover]

Looks fine to me clean, lube and shoot. If you like put some elbow grease into it. I would have bought it to. I like SIGs and cheap ones are even better.

 

[SC_Mike]

Wear wise it looks about right for an early 90's duty weapon. Polish and a spring kit and shoot it. Don't for get mag springs also.

Nice find.

 

[scoobysnacker]

Thanks to everyone for the replies, anticipation mounts now... got a tracking number that says it has already been picked up, and has left the fedex facility, so it's on the truck. Tennessee to Louisiana, shouldn't take very long at all. And since I have to work all weekend anyway, getting it early next week shouldn't be a long wait for me.

WVSig, if this was just an "okay" deal in your book, I need to start shadowing your shopping habits! I've looked for YEARS for one at the $300-ish threshold, and have never found one. I've seen some at the $399 price, but those were always DAK and/or .40 cal, and I wanted the traditional 9mm DA/SA.

Arik, based on the serial #, this places as a 1990. Will post to confirm with the date code when I get it.

 

[gman51]

I bought a used Sig P226 from an auction site for $345. It has minimal slide surface wear but no pitting. This gun makes me look like a lot better shooter than I usually am. This gun cares not what ammo I feed it and just keeps firing very accurately. The Navy seals didn't carry this gun because it was junk. It is quality for sure.
I just bought another P226 .40 with a dak trigger. Purchased for $300+ Meaning it is double action only where as my other P226 9mm is da/sa. I didn't think I would like the DAK but after shooting it I am not going to change it out to sa/da. Both of these Sigs are great dependable quality guns. I have no intention of ever selling them.
You got a good price and I bet you will really be surprised how well it shoots.

 

[robvious]

early P226 models had stamped/folded slides... later ones were milled... but I can't remember when the transition happened... 1996??

 

[S. Kelly]

Great gun at a fantastic price!

 

[Brian in Oregon]

OK... I will pull them if there's a problem, this is in good faith

Not the prettiest Sig around, but $315 made it mine.

There were some detail closeups that show the pits more, but you can tell that the gun is pretty rough. Slide has certainly seen better days. However, as I said before, if it functions like it should, I actually like guns like this. I most likely will just address the trigger guard and give it some thorough TLC.

It fills a slot in my meager collection, beside my Beretta 92FS and CZ 75, at a price I've tried to stay at. I've hunted years for a beaten up P226 at this price range, I finally found one
It won't be my primary gun, but I've wanted one, just to have.

$315 for that? I don't do auctions, but if it had been in my local gun shop I wudda bought it for that price.

SIG can reblue the slide for $99. See their Custom Shop page on their website. However, they will not polish out dents, scratches or rust pits. Those will remain. This is simply a reblue.

In addition, for $144 SIG can go through your gun, replace springs, etc. This includes $120 worth of SIG tritium night sights. Rebluing is not included with this service. So if you are thinking about installing tritium sights, this is a bargain.

SIG does not refinish frames. Suggest you test some Birchwood Casey Perma Black gloss or matte to see which matches your frame.

 

[Ross3914]

The slides on the old P226's rust like crazy. I'd do something about a finish, otherwise you will be wiping rust from it every couple of days. The pits are there to stay, so I wouldn't spend much money on it. I'd go with one of the DIY finishes.

I'd also replace all the springs in it when you have it apart to deal with the finish. Spring kits are cheap, and one thing that will kill a Sig is frame cracks. Worn springs are the chief cause of those. Replace the springs.

Another thing to watch for is the roll pins that hold the breech block in the slide. They'll break after a ton of rounds and start to walk out. If your pins start to walk out, replace them. They aren't normal roll pins, but they're easy to get from Midway, Brownells, Top Gun Supply, etc.

 

[JaPes]

As long as the frame is straight and the point where the barrel locks to the slide isn't out of spec, I'd buy it. Detail strip it. Put all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner. Give all the parts a good inspection. Replace every spring and worn part. Install a short reach and short reset trigger. Because the slide is pitted, no point in going all out refinishing it. I'd gently remove surface rust and accept that I'll have to periodically rub down the slide with oil.

 

[Arik]

I bought a used Sig P226 from an auction site for $345. It has minimal slide surface wear but no pitting. This gun makes me look like a lot better shooter than I usually am. This gun cares not what ammo I feed it and just keeps firing very accurately. The Navy seals didn't carry this gun because it was junk. It is quality for sure.
I just bought another P226 .40 with a dak trigger. Purchased for $300+ Meaning it is double action only where as my other P226 9mm is da/sa. I didn't think I would like the DAK but after shooting it I am not going to change it out to sa/da. Both of these Sigs are great dependable quality guns. I have no intention of ever selling them.
You got a good price and I bet you will really be surprised how well it shoots.

OPs Sig and the Navy MK25 are not exactly the same gun. The Mk is milled, has an external extractor and got rid of the breech block, which was a weak spot for the gun

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[WVSig]

Thanks to everyone for the replies, anticipation mounts now... got a tracking number that says it has already been picked up, and has left the fedex facility, so it's on the truck. Tennessee to Louisiana, shouldn't take very long at all. And since I have to work all weekend anyway, getting it early next week shouldn't be a long wait for me.

WVSig, if this was just an "okay" deal in your book, I need to start shadowing your shopping habits! I've looked for YEARS for one at the $300-ish threshold, and have never found one. I've seen some at the $399 price, but those were always DAK and/or .40 cal, and I wanted the traditional 9mm DA/SA.

Arik, based on the serial #, this places as a 1990. Will post to confirm with the date code when I get it.

I am not knocking your purchase at all I hope you did not take my comments negatively. I have gotten some real deals over the years. I bought a LNIB P228 with 7 mags and a Kramer holster for $400 once.

I passed on a good condition P226 locally early this year. It showed holster wear but no pitting or major scratches for $450. I just did not need another P226.

I personally would have waited for one without the pitting a paid a little more but if you are happy again that is all that matters.

 

[WVSig]

As long as the frame is straight and the point where the barrel locks to the slide isn't out of spec, I'd buy it. Detail strip it. Put all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner. Give all the parts a good inspection. Replace every spring and worn part. Install a short reach and short reset trigger. Because the slide is pitted, no point in going all out refinishing it. I'd gently remove surface rust and accept that I'll have to periodically rub down the slide with oil.

This would work but for $45 I might refinish the slide so I don't have to be so diligent with the oil.

The guy I referenced who lists on the Sig Forum coyotekiller is a great guy and does great work. He is not going to be able to remove the pits but his coating will help stop future rust and it will look better IMHO.

Pics of his work. Email: [email protected]

 

[Arik]

OP, my 220 only looks slightly better than your 226. It doesn't have pitting but just as worn. I have no issues with rust. Never refinished it because I just don't care about finishes. It has never rusted or turned brown

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