Wet tumbling brass with stainless media

[ontargetagain]

Hello. Reloading continues to teach me new things and has me wondering about improved methods of brass prep so I would like those that use this method or have switched to it to share experiences and suggestions.

I reload for handgun only, 9mm, 38/357, 44mag/special, 45acp, 45LC. My method has gone from inexpensive vibratory to ultrasonic. Currently I will deprime, rinse, run about 10-15mins in Ultrasonic, air dry then with a primer pocket cleaner mounted in drill clean all primer pockets.

If I go to a wet quality rotary tumbler such as Thumlers with stainless media will it thoroughly clean the primer pockets or will they still need attention? What other steps are needed to better finish the cases if any?

Gun Tap seems to offer quality media? What other additives are a benefit while the brass is in the drum and what amount of tumble time does it take.
Any thoughts or first hand experience to share would be appreciated in decision making for me....Thanks
Karl

 

[TAROMAN]

Just started wet pin tumbling. Bit of a learning curve, but developed a system quickly.
To answer your first question, yes, primer pockets do get thoroughly clean.
I chose the Frankford Arsenal tumbler kit, everything included.
IMHO, a dedicated wet polisher is the only way to go.
Case tumbling needs higher speed than rock tumbling.
Most Thumblers are low speed rock tumblers. I tried one years ago for case tumbling and quickly gave up on the idea.
Having used the Frankford, there's no way I'd even think about using a rock tumbler ever again.
I use LemiShine and Armorall Wash and Wax, 1 tablespoon of each.

 

[Vortec MAX]

Wet tumbling will certainly save you some time in cleaning the primer pockets. If you deprime before they go in, it is hard to distinguish the brass from new, never fired brass. This includes the inside of the case and the primer pockets.

I tumble in the Thumler's for 2.5 hours if I stick to the recommended two pounds of brass. I will go up to 3 hours if I overload it a bit.

I add one tablespoon of concentrated Dawn dish soap and 1/4 teaspoon of Lemi-Shine to each batch (I have soft water). If you use the non-concentrated Dawn, you will need 3 tablespoons. You might need a little more Dawn if your water is really hard.

I still put mine in a vibratory polisher after I dry the brass in the clothes dryer (setting the sifter pan on the shoe rack). I add a drizzle of 50/50 mix of Nu-Finish car polish and low odor mineral spirits to Berry's untreated corn cob. Doing this puts a waxy, slick coating on the brass which prevents tarnishing and makes the brass go through the carbide dies easily. The Berry's corn cob is really small, so it does not get stuck in the flash holes as easily. Since the brass is clean when it goes into the corn cob, the media lasts practically forever. I have run probably 100 batches through my current media and it still works like new. This extra step really makes the brass shine too.

Here is a more detailed post I wrote a while back:

Wet Tumbling Process

Mike

 

[Rocket3]

The Frankford Arsenal tumbler kit gets really high makes over at Midway.

Thanks for starting the thread Karl and for responding JWK!

I think I'll be ordering one soon.
Jay

 

[powrguy]

Wet tumbling will certainly save you some time in cleaning the primer pockets. If you deprime before they go in, it is hard to distinguish the brass from new, never fired brass. This includes the inside of the case and the primer pockets.



Mike

I use a cheap-o HF tumbler, and do 50 cases per each of the two drums, Lemi-Shine, and Armorall Wash+Wax. I used to use Dawn, and then after blow-drying, run them in corn cob in a vibrating tumbler with Nu Finish. I always de-prime before tumbling in the stainless pins, too.

I've found that I can forego the Nu Finish/corncob tumbling and the Armorall Wash&Wax puts enough of the wax on the brass to inhibit tarnishing. I don't know if I stored them for a year or more how the brass would stay shiny, but I shoot them and rotate the stock pretty quickly.

 

[Bob R]

I recently went from a vibratory cleaner to wet tumbling. Impressed is an understatement. I deprime first and the brass comes out clean inside and out. All of the little pins can be a pain, and rinsing the brass can be a pain in the winter when I have to use the tub. Just make sure you get a pick up magnet with everything and you should be fine. I recently had a garage sale and I had a beat up Dillon 750 cleaner. The first person that asked what I wanted for it got it for nothing.

bob

 

[Vortec MAX]

Most Thumblers are low speed rock tumblers.

Yes. I forgot to mention that you want the "high-speed" Thumler's if you use that brand. I think they call it the Model "B" or something like that.

Mike

 

[ameridaddy]

I use a 40 year old Thumler -
1. deprime, add ~ 150 pistol brass, cold water to 2" below full, 1/4 - 1/2 tsp Lemi-Shine, 2 tbsp Dawn; you want enough Dawn to have suds when you open the barrel after tumbling.
2. tumble 1 to 3 hrs.
3. dump tumbler barrel contents into brass/media separator (I never use the top half of the gray part), crank to shake pins out of brass.
4. rinse brass in hot water.
5. dump onto folded towel, spread brass flat, fold towel over for a minute or two.
6. pour dirty water out of separator, dump ss media back into tumbler barrel, wash SS media if you desire.
7. open towel back flat.
8. check for SS pins stuck in primer flash holes, (usually two) pull the very few pins that are there with small needle nose pliers.
9. let air dry overnight.
10. store or load brass next day. I usually clean brass about dinner time, let tumble, come back after dinner and finish the process.

If you're in a hurry, you can accelerate drying with an air nozzle or a heat gun/hair drier.
I really like the SS media method, much more than the dirty media tumbling. No red residue, primer pockets are immaculate, case insides immaculate, sharp edges from chamfering are softened, and the media lasts forever.

 

[Magload]

My rifle brass goes into corn cob media with Turtle Wax for a couple hours to clean it up before depriming. After depriming/resizing it goes in a SSpin wet tumbler with Turtle Wax wash and wax for 3 hours then to dry. In the sun if hot out side or in a food dehydrator if not. Then back in the corn cobs for 2 hours with the Turtle Wax as I believe it leaves a better coating and it does add to the shine.

Handgun brass only gets that treatment once it it is outdoor range brass. Other wise it gets a long time in the corn cobs with the Turtle Wax. it doesn't not get a primer pocket cleaning either.

 

[series guy]

If you want to really clean some brass go with a Bigg Dawg tumbler. I can fit about 1200 9mm cases or 600 .45 Colt cases in the drum. One hour run time and you have new brass again. I always de-prime first so the primer pockets are clean too.

 

[ontargetagain]

I knew there would be great shared info on this
Thanks so far to all that have contributed. I realized after a bit of research that the Thumblers correct model would be the high speed unit if I were to get that one. My friend that gave me the initial guidance and instructions into reloading is about to make the commitment to the Frankford Arsenal tumbler and I am sure that I will be next in line for one. I have read that there are some suppliers on stainless media that may be using a thinner stock than the recommended .047 diameter and that those may be prone to fouling up the primer holes. Since my revolvers are on the lighter side of hammer strike force I pay special attention to primer pocket detailing for proper primer seating.

Though air drying works out OK I may also purchase one of the brass dryers just so there is no lingering moisture during the drying process to foul up anything.

I will have to make good notes from this thread as to the additives that are being used too.
Please continue adding info and methods and experiences with product, thanks again!
Karl

 

[Magload]

A food dehyderator works just as good and it a lot cheaper.
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_11?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=brass+dryer&sprefix=undefined%2Caps%2C161"]Amazon.com: brass dryer[/ame]
You can find them at a local thrift store for 10 bucks. Mine has 5 shelves and drys brass in no time the wife got it at a Salvation Army store for $5.

 

[ontargetagain]

A food dehyderator works just as good and it a lot cheaper.
Amazon.com: brass dryer
You can find them at a local thrift store for 10 bucks. Mine has 5 shelves and drys brass in no time the wife got it at a Salvation Army store for $5.

Good point though it seemed many of the food dehydrators were of a lower wattage. I will assign this task to my wife who is frequent Thrift store visitor.

 

[Vortec MAX]

I might have to look into the new Hornady Case and Parts Dryer. I always have to "fluff" the clothes in the clothes dryer and fold them before I can dry my brass on the shoe rack. Having a dedicated dryer would cut down on my contribution to folding laundry .

Mike

 

[ontargetagain]

I might have to look into the new Hornady Case and Parts Dryer. I always have to "fluff" the clothes in the clothes dryer and fold them before I can dry my brass on the shoe rack. Having a dedicated dryer would cut down on my contribution to folding laundry .

Mike

I don't have the patience to fold clothes, really I don't! LOL

 

[Bob R]

one of the brass dryers

Having a dedicated dryer

I think what you are both looking for is known as an oven. One or two cookie sheets, a half hour on 250 and you are done.

bob

 

[robert1804]

I think what you are both looking for is known as an oven. One or two cookie sheets, a half hour on 250 and you are done.

bob

Six minutes at 350 does it for me. Dries it quick without any discoloration. Yes it's hot but still well below annealing temperature.

 

[feelinlucky]

Stainless pins and water with a tiny dab of citric acid and soap in a tumbler is a lot of trouble. You have to find a way to separate the media and dry the brass. Finding appropriate equipment is also a bit more difficult.

That said, it will clean every nook and cranny, eliminate tarnish, and just plain make your brass look like new. Period.

BTW, I have had no trouble whatsoever with pins sticking in the flash holes.

I would never go back to any of the lesser, and far less effective, methods of cleaning brass.

 

[ameridaddy]

Stainless pins and water ... is a lot of trouble. You have to find a way to separate the media and dry the brass. Finding appropriate equipment is also a bit more difficult.
....
BTW, I have had no trouble whatsoever with pins sticking in the flash holes.

I would never go back to any of the lesser, and far less effective, methods of cleaning brass.

separate the media appropriate equipment ~$30

pins sticking in the flash holes. I get maybe one per batch, sometimes two, sometimes none.

 

[Vortec MAX]

BTW, I have had no trouble whatsoever with pins sticking in the flash holes.

Do you know what brand your pins are? I bought mine with the tumbler in a package deal from Brownell's. I get pins doubled up in a flash hole occasionally. I have had as many as 5 or so in a large batch.

Mike