What Apex parts? DCAEK?

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taseal

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Looking to get the hard sear, but I'm not sure if I should spend the extra and get the DCAEK?

It'll be going on my MP9c which is my conceal carry...

I believe the hard sear will lower the trigger to about 4.5-5lbs which I'm happy with on a EDC

from what I can tell the DCAEK is the same thing except the trigger is at about 5.5lbs for people that aren't comfortable with 4.5-5 lbs... is there any other benefit to it?

one thing I don't like on my MP9c is a rather heavy 2nd stage. when the slack is gone it gets pretty heavy...

so I'm looking for advice on if I should only get the hard sear or DCAEK?

There are some other things I see on their website like the USB so i'm little lost as to what I need

thanks!
 
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Get the Kit.

Search the forum about these.
The number of posters that "got this part" or "that part" and complained that the improvements were not worth it; only to rave once the "full kit" was in.

as to pull weight, the dcaek is rated for 4.5-5.5 based on what the trigger was stock.
 
I have an M&P45c and an M&P40c that I have both installed the DCAEK in. I like them much better with the kits than without. Great products and customer service with a very knowledgeable staff if you have any questions or issues.
 
what does the kit add as far as 'better' trigger? from what it looked like, it doesn't smooth further, but just brings the trigger to about 5.5 lbs instead of like 4.5. I would honestly prefer 4.5-5lbs... not 5.5-6

afaik the hard sear will improve reset and lower the lbs

FWIW my price is 75 bucks at brownells for the DCAEK
sear is only 33
 
Last edited:
g_conway said:
Get the Kit.

Search the forum about these.
The number of posters that "got this part" or "that part" and complained that the improvements were not worth it; only to rave once the "full kit" was in.

as to pull weight, the dcaek is rated for 4.5-5.5 based on what the trigger was stock.
Click to expand...

I agree!!! Get the whole kit! I installed just the sear and it did improve things but it was 10 times better once I installed the USB and springs in the kit. Plus it's cheaper if you buy it all now verses buying it in parts.
 
+1 to get the kit. The USB will greatly improve the trigger take up and eliminate the rough or "gritty" feel when squeezing the trigger.

The hard sear will lighten and smooth the sear release due to a different sear engagement angle. After installation you will notice a much reduced tendency for the muzzle to jump in one direction when dryfiring. The included sear plunger spring, I understand will help eliminate the possibility of a dead trigger due to "sear bounce".

Add those parts first. Then, if the trigger feels too light for your purposes, you can add the trigger return spring.
 
Just IMHO, but the USB (or striker block, or drop safety) is a key update - it smooths out the trigger bar action considerably. The result is just going to shoot better. The hard sear helps a lot, too. The springs that go with the sear update are probably neutral, but if you're going to swap the sear, swap the spring, too.

The trigger spring, which is also a bear to install is a YMMV, I think. It will change the overall feel a bit, and it's best to just pick what feels better.

An observation: I'm an old wheelgunner.... 40+ years since I bought my first S&W revolvers. In those days an out-of-the-box S&W revolver generally had about the best overall feel of anything on the market. (Not to revive the ancient Colt v.s. S&W wars, but I've tried 'em all.)

Adding the DCAEK kit to my one of my M&P's (I'd noted a bit of a drop in "feel", v.s. some older S&W semi's and my revolvers) more or less brought the M&P's up to the revolver standards!

(I bought two more kits almost immediately....)

It'd be nice if S&W would buy their sears and USB's from Apex :D.

Regards,
 
OK, I was looking to get the Hard sear & the striker block, or just get the DCAEK which I think I'm going to do. So who else installed the RAM and what affect did that have? Not sure if I should get that too while I'm at it. And do you just order them from Apex direct or do they sell them cheaper elsewhere?
 
The install doesn't look too bad, I think it will take about an hour for me...

thing is I don't have any punches. will anyone be kind enough to tell me what size punches I will need?
 
The AEK trigger is an outstanding addition too. It shortens up the pre-travel and over-travel considerably (honestly, it feels like more than the advertised 20%). Adding it, along with the hard sear and USB, made the gun feel perfect, for me (I strongly prefer the flat trigger face and bar-type safety).

All were extremely easy to install (with zero prior experience). The hardest part was getting the pin in the trigger to catch the trigger bar (I have big, fat fingers); after that it was smooth sailing.
 
taseal said:
The install doesn't look too bad, I think it will take about an hour for me...

thing is I don't have any punches. will anyone be kind enough to tell me what size punches I will need?
Click to expand...

1/8in for the frame. If you do the AEK trigger, you'll need a 1/16in for the small pin that connects the trigger and trigger bar.
 
Shark88 said:
OK, I was looking to get the Hard sear & the striker block, or just get the DCAEK which I think I'm going to do. So who else installed the RAM and what affect did that have? Not sure if I should get that too while I'm at it. And do you just order them from Apex direct or do they sell them cheaper elsewhere?
Click to expand...

I installed the RAM and the reset is better. I didn't really mind it before but this did improve it and figured I might as well just do it all. :)
 
taseal said:
The install doesn't look too bad, I think it will take about an hour for me...

thing is I don't have any punches. will anyone be kind enough to tell me what size punches I will need?
Click to expand...

As far as punches go all you need is an 1/8" roll punch
 
ok, got it... 1/8th punch

well, I did some more reading here and it looks like the hard sear, RAM and USB are the 3 things to get. will drop the trigger to about 4-5lbs...

The only think I see with DCAEK is the addition of the trigger return spring and hard sear spring, which actually make the trigger heavier, which is what I don't want... I don't see any other benefit to the DCAEK vs the hard sear, USB and RAM.

I think I'm better off buying the Hard sear, USB and RAM instead. the Increased Rate Sear Spring & Trigger Return Spring don't do anything else but add about a pound to the trigger pull correct?

it actually cost more with hard sear, USB and RAM ($80.34) vs the DCAEK ($74.44)
 
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taseal:

I think I'd buy the whole kit :D.... Might as well save a buck.

I would (I did) install the sear spring as long as things are apart - I don't think it'll have that much effect. Install the trigger spring if you feel you want it.

(The sear spring and plunger may go flying. Be prepared with a plastic bag. The USB - drop safety - requires removing the rear sight, but it seems to be pretty easy. At least the three I did.)

That's an 1/8" roll pin punch. Sort of a little projection on the end. A standard punch can damage the pin, and muck up the hole in the plastic parts.

(Replacement roll pins aren't that hard to find. Replacement plastic grips, a little harder :D.)

The trigger spring really is a magic jigsaw puzzle, IMHO. Watch the videos. If you're used to this sort of thing, it's not too terrible, though. I found replacing the sear block frustrating, but I just kept playing with it. The trigger block, OTOH, involved a lot of cursing. Still, not the end of the world. Easier than replacing the sear on a P3AT.... (Whole new meaning of non-intuitive.)

Regards,
 
SMMAssociates said:
taseal:

I think I'd buy the whole kit :D.... Might as well save a buck.

I would (I did) install the sear spring as long as things are apart - I don't think it'll have that much effect. Install the trigger spring if you feel you want it.

(The sear spring and plunger may go flying. Be prepared with a plastic bag. The USB - drop safety - requires removing the rear sight, but it seems to be pretty easy. At least the three I did.)

That's an 1/8" roll pin punch. Sort of a little projection on the end. A standard punch can damage the pin, and muck up the hole in the plastic parts.

(Replacement roll pins aren't that hard to find. Replacement plastic grips, a little harder :D.)

The trigger spring really is a magic jigsaw puzzle, IMHO. Watch the videos. If you're used to this sort of thing, it's not too terrible, though. I found replacing the sear block frustrating, but I just kept playing with it. The trigger block, OTOH, involved a lot of cursing. Still, not the end of the world. Easier than replacing the sear on a P3AT.... (Whole new meaning of non-intuitive.)

Regards,
Click to expand...

it's only more expensive if you include the RAM...

what do you think about the ram? worth it? or is the rest of the stuff make the reset noticable enough that I won't need it?
 
I have the RAM in mine also.
Pro's:
Improves reset FEEL. It does not in any way change the reset point.
You will find you get a very posative tactile and audible indication that reset has happened.

The ability to reset the trigger even if the spring fails. Just push the trigger forward with either finger and it will fire again. Can't do this without the RAM.
 
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