frog289
US Veteran
I just put an order in for a 460xvr 14in barrel can,t wait to get it and shoot it I have a number of S&W wheel guns also have shot a 500 all are great
What are the must have Smith Revolvers?
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nawilson
US Veteran
I like your style! N frames are very cool, and your list has several. The only thing I would add is a nice, blued P&R gun. Mine is a Model 19. Stainless is very forgiving, but I do like to look at my M19 and think, "wow, this is pretty. They really used to make 'em this way."
Cpt. Obvious
Member
All of them...
Ill just give my list, I guess
38/44 HD and Outdoorsman, model 10 4" tapered barrel, model 13, model 14(have it), model 17, model 18, model 19 4" and 6", model 22, model 25, model 27 3.5" 5", model 28 4" 6", model 36 3", model 58, model 581(have it), model 681(have it), model 586 4" 6", model 625 5", model 520, 657 6"....
I think that's it for revolvers, also models 41, 52, and 39 for s&w autos. I hope my wife never sees this list...
Ill just give my list, I guess
38/44 HD and Outdoorsman, model 10 4" tapered barrel, model 13, model 14(have it), model 17, model 18, model 19 4" and 6", model 22, model 25, model 27 3.5" 5", model 28 4" 6", model 36 3", model 58, model 581(have it), model 681(have it), model 586 4" 6", model 625 5", model 520, 657 6"....
I think that's it for revolvers, also models 41, 52, and 39 for s&w autos. I hope my wife never sees this list...
To me, guns are for shooting, usually as practice for a more serious use, such as self-defense or hunting. Of course, target-shooting is also a sport in its own right. That said, the two S&W revolvers that seem to me to be classics are the Model 10, probably but not necessarily with a 4" tapered barrel, and the Model 29, which I happen to prefer in 4". Some other classics are the 6" K-22, the Chief's Special, the original Centennial (Model 40 or Model 42), and the Model 25. Surely others would add the Model 14, and the early .357 Magnums.
But really, other than owning every variation ever produced, the real focus of the collection should be what YOU are interested in, or can use, or could have used if (fill in your own hypotheticals about historical period, location and other circumstances). It's really up to you and your circumstances. Finances, storage space and other considerations can all affect your choice of the scope of your collection. Myself, I have found that it is so easy to expand into the ridiculous that I have limited myself pretty much to guns that I can actually carry. I have very few guns with barrels over 4". But that's just me and my circumstances. Yours may be very different.
Have fun!
But really, other than owning every variation ever produced, the real focus of the collection should be what YOU are interested in, or can use, or could have used if (fill in your own hypotheticals about historical period, location and other circumstances). It's really up to you and your circumstances. Finances, storage space and other considerations can all affect your choice of the scope of your collection. Myself, I have found that it is so easy to expand into the ridiculous that I have limited myself pretty much to guns that I can actually carry. I have very few guns with barrels over 4". But that's just me and my circumstances. Yours may be very different.
Have fun!
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NFrameFred
Member
Easier question to ask would be "which ones DON'T I need" . . . and that will generate some interesting discussion from those whose favorite oxen are inevitably gored . . . 
IMHO:
A .22 rimfire. M17 or M617. 6 shot or 10 shot, doesn't matter.
A .38 Special J frame. M60. First stainless handgun.
A .38 Special K frame. M10 or M15. Your choice.
A .357 K frame. M19 or M66. Magnum perfection.
A .357 L frame. M586 or M686. Especially a 4" 686-4 plus.
A .357 N frame. M27 or M28. For LEO history.
A .44 N frame. M29 or M629. It'll "blow your head clean off."
A .500 X frame. M500. I don't know...grizzly bears???
A .22 rimfire. M17 or M617. 6 shot or 10 shot, doesn't matter.
A .38 Special J frame. M60. First stainless handgun.
A .38 Special K frame. M10 or M15. Your choice.
A .357 K frame. M19 or M66. Magnum perfection.
A .357 L frame. M586 or M686. Especially a 4" 686-4 plus.
A .357 N frame. M27 or M28. For LEO history.
A .44 N frame. M29 or M629. It'll "blow your head clean off."
A .500 X frame. M500. I don't know...grizzly bears???
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Model 19/66, 2.5" or 6". For reasons I cannot explain, I do not care for the 4" in this configuration, but the long and short both balance perfectly and have a certain zen aspect to them that is unparalleled, IMHO.
I would start with the .22's as they will be the harder to find as ammo proces climb,and they WILL for sure. By "any' I mean have a REAL close look at what is offered
Any 22/32 "Bekaert"
Any model 35 (hard to find)
Any model 51(hard to find)
Any model 53
Any model 43 .22mag airweight
Any model 48 no dash to -4
K22's then model 17's
Any model 18 no dash to -4
After all this you could move on to the centerfire pistols but as a collection that will retain value AND be easy to sell/trade up or down you can't do better than .22's I've collected for more than 40 years and this focus has served me well. With .357 factory around $40 a box vs $3.50-$4.00 for .22 there is no contest.
All the best, Ischia
model 34's no dash first, then 2"nickel , 4" nickel then blue
Model K 22's 17's
Any 22/32 "Bekaert"
Any model 35 (hard to find)
Any model 51(hard to find)
Any model 53
Any model 43 .22mag airweight
Any model 48 no dash to -4
K22's then model 17's
Any model 18 no dash to -4
After all this you could move on to the centerfire pistols but as a collection that will retain value AND be easy to sell/trade up or down you can't do better than .22's I've collected for more than 40 years and this focus has served me well. With .357 factory around $40 a box vs $3.50-$4.00 for .22 there is no contest.
All the best, Ischia
model 34's no dash first, then 2"nickel , 4" nickel then blue
Model K 22's 17's
This thread needs some pictures. If you want to put together a nice collection of "shooter" S&W's, here's my suggestions:
Everyone needs a K22, this one here is a 5-screw pre-17:
Moving up in caliber, a good .357 is a must. I like this 3.5" Model 27-2:
But if you prefer a longer barrel, a 6" M586 is a good choice:
In the alternative, a 38/44 Heavy Duty is never a bad choice and are great fun to shoot (the Colt Officer's Model Match in the picture is a fun gun too, but we're focusing on S&W's for the moment):
Now that you've got some larger revolvers, a few small guns are in order. From the top, clockwise: S&W M66 no dash 2.5" .357 magnum; M442 38spl; M317 pre-lock 22lr; Colt Detective Special (those darns Colts keep getting in the mix somehow):
Moving from small revolvers to large revolvers, the 44's and 45's should be calling to you. In the 45's I particularly enjoy my M25 Model of 1955 45 ACP:
A 4" M624 makes a great packing revolver, and the 44 Special is an excellent cartridge to learn handloading with:
And in the heavy barreled 4" N-frames, it's hard to beat the M57 and M29. Either will be a joy to shoot and carry:
Model 57:
Model 29:
Everyone needs a K22, this one here is a 5-screw pre-17:
Moving up in caliber, a good .357 is a must. I like this 3.5" Model 27-2:
But if you prefer a longer barrel, a 6" M586 is a good choice:
In the alternative, a 38/44 Heavy Duty is never a bad choice and are great fun to shoot (the Colt Officer's Model Match in the picture is a fun gun too, but we're focusing on S&W's for the moment):
Now that you've got some larger revolvers, a few small guns are in order. From the top, clockwise: S&W M66 no dash 2.5" .357 magnum; M442 38spl; M317 pre-lock 22lr; Colt Detective Special (those darns Colts keep getting in the mix somehow):
Moving from small revolvers to large revolvers, the 44's and 45's should be calling to you. In the 45's I particularly enjoy my M25 Model of 1955 45 ACP:
A 4" M624 makes a great packing revolver, and the 44 Special is an excellent cartridge to learn handloading with:
And in the heavy barreled 4" N-frames, it's hard to beat the M57 and M29. Either will be a joy to shoot and carry:
Model 57:
Model 29:
I'm partial to the Model 10. I'd be willing to bet that there is more than one collector who has nothing but Model 10s and M&P revolvers. As someone else said, they made a jillion of them, with about a million different variations.
My opinion:
Gotta have at least one model 10, 15, 19, 27, 66, 686/586, 36
Optional: model 13/65, 64, 67, 28, 29/629, 627, 681/581, 25
I dont make the 44 mag mandatory, some people just art not into them, or they are too much.
I also dont list any .22LR's as I am not into them personally. Same with 44 spl and 41 mag and other oddball revolvers like the 610 or 545
Gotta have at least one model 10, 15, 19, 27, 66, 686/586, 36
Optional: model 13/65, 64, 67, 28, 29/629, 627, 681/581, 25
I dont make the 44 mag mandatory, some people just art not into them, or they are too much.
I also dont list any .22LR's as I am not into them personally. Same with 44 spl and 41 mag and other oddball revolvers like the 610 or 545
Pre-War 38/44 is a must have. 
OK Hog Shooter
Member
...and at least a Model of 1917, a Victory .38 special and a Post-war pre Model 10...
JCS&W
US Veteran
Just my opinion, but
N frames: M58, M57,M29,M28,M27,M25 - pick a barrel length 4" for example
L frames: M586, M581
K frames: M19 in 2.5 and 4". M15, M10 M66 in 2.5 and 4", M12
J frames: M36, M49, M37
I frames: .32 Hand ejector, M30
These would get you started in the right direction, then go for the older more expensive pieces to fill in.
But never buy a nickel gun. That is an addiction all to itself.
N frames: M58, M57,M29,M28,M27,M25 - pick a barrel length 4" for example
L frames: M586, M581
K frames: M19 in 2.5 and 4". M15, M10 M66 in 2.5 and 4", M12
J frames: M36, M49, M37
I frames: .32 Hand ejector, M30
These would get you started in the right direction, then go for the older more expensive pieces to fill in.
But never buy a nickel gun. That is an addiction all to itself.
cornfed83
Member
First thing that I would do is decide which frame size you like best as they each handle a little bit differently. Next thing I would do is decide which calibers you want to shoot. The N frame has the most choices for calibers but many of them can be a little tougher on the budget.
If you're just starting off on revolvers I'd suggest a nice K or L frame in .357 or .38 with a 4 or 6 inch barrel. These are great little guns with very mild recoil when using .38s. As far as a must have goes however once you've played around with a 625 you'll probably fall in lust!
If you're just starting off on revolvers I'd suggest a nice K or L frame in .357 or .38 with a 4 or 6 inch barrel. These are great little guns with very mild recoil when using .38s. As far as a must have goes however once you've played around with a 625 you'll probably fall in lust!
BCDWYO
Member
Obviously I can't argue with those who say "all of them", but I'm trying to think of this as if I were starting a collection...I think the first 10 "classics" I'd look for would be:
1. L-frame 357 mag 586 or 686 - probably 4" ...great shooter to practice with while I acquired more.
2. Model 19 4"
3. Model 17 6"
4. Model 27 (3.5") or 28 (4") (okay thats 2)
5. Model 10 4"
6. Model 625 5"
7. Model 610 4" (good luck) or 5"
8. Model 13 or 65 3"
9. Prelock Centennial 38 special J frame
10. Model 29 or 629 4" or 6".
After you get that base you will know what other ones you want...you will end up with various barrel lengths and stainless/blue versions of your favorites.
1. L-frame 357 mag 586 or 686 - probably 4" ...great shooter to practice with while I acquired more.
2. Model 19 4"
3. Model 17 6"
4. Model 27 (3.5") or 28 (4") (okay thats 2)
5. Model 10 4"
6. Model 625 5"
7. Model 610 4" (good luck) or 5"
8. Model 13 or 65 3"
9. Prelock Centennial 38 special J frame
10. Model 29 or 629 4" or 6".
After you get that base you will know what other ones you want...you will end up with various barrel lengths and stainless/blue versions of your favorites.
No matter what your quest is for and what you have, you will always find that you need something else. You will collect calibers, models, five screws, pre-wars, post-wars, stainless, blued, pre-lock, post-lock, etc.
Well, at least that is what happened to me.
Well, at least that is what happened to me.
Well I happen to like the older guns, but then three that came into my "hot sticky little hands" were three 8 & 3/8 inch barreled revolvers, a Model 29-5, a Model 25-5 and a Model 57-"0" (which had been stamped over a Model 29 marking). These co-exist with a number of 1905s from the first to 4th variation (caiibres from 32-30 via 38 S&W to 38 Special) and both K380/200 and 38 Spec in WWII variants, via a K14 and a K17 in target modes. A lot more in stainless on K, L and N frames, so somewhat eclectic at times. Dave_n
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