What are these numbers engraved in my 686?

[lonniesraw]

Hello, this is my first post here. I just bought my first revolver. I got it off armslist for $600 (was that a OK deal?) It's a smith and wesson 686-4 , 2 1/2" barrel . I haven't got a chance to hear this puppy bark yet, but I can already tell I love it. A lot different from my polymer pistols. One of my main ques

 

[lonniesraw]

Questions is what are the numbers engraved on the yoke arm. The pic is kinda fuzzy, but it reads "262". Nobody I asked seems to know. And also, what the year of manufacture be if my serial number is BRK1200?

 

[lonniesraw]

And in my reading, looking up these numbers, I read something about a recall where they do some kind of mod and stamp a "M" on it. Does mine need this mod?

 

[KAC]

Those are assembly numbers that help keep the yoke and the frame, and other fitted parts, together while the gun is being built.

 

[gunnails]

I believe the recall was just for the no dash guns as in the very first in the series, so you should be good to go.

And the $600 was a fair price.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

serial number is BRK1200

March 1994.

A -4 does not need the "M" mark. Those modifications were built in to the -4 from the beginning. Only the no-dash and -1 are subject to recall and need the modification (which is voluntary).

To expand on KAC's remarks.... that 262 number, I believe, if you looked on the back surface of the side plate you'd see it there too. You'd also see 262 inscribed on the side of the grip frame if you took off the grips. Those three parts are fitted together, then numbered so they don't get mixed up with another gun's parts.

 

[lonniesraw]

I was thinking about doing a little bit of work on this gun. Tell me what you guys think, or what you would do with it. I was thinking of polishing off the light scratches with some " mothers mag polish" I had laying around. I prefer the brushed stainless look, but I wanna get those scratches out. Is there any way to do both?.... I was also thinking of getting the Wilson combat trigger spring kit and lightly polishing the contact points...

 

[JohnAC]

I was thinking about doing a little bit of work on this gun. Tell me what you guys think, or what you would do with it. I was thinking of polishing off the light scratches with some " mothers mag polish" I had laying around. I prefer the brushed stainless look, but I wanna get those scratches out. Is there any way to do both?.... I was also thinking of getting the Wilson combat trigger spring kit and lightly polishing the contact points...

Polishing the scratches will most likely remove the brushed finish also. I would leave it alone. I also wouldn't start swapping parts and polishing internals unless you really know what you are doing.

That looks like a nice snubbie as-is.

 

[lonniesraw]

I also read that the discoloration on the forged hammer and trigger is a heat treatment. Is that a desirable look/ patina ? If I polish it off would it loose the strength the heat treatment was done for? I have lots of time on my hands with all this snow.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

I also read that the discoloration on the forged hammer and trigger is a heat treatment. Is that a desirable look/ patina ? If I polish it off would it loose the strength the heat treatment was done for? I have lots of time on my hands with all this snow.

Discoloration or color case hardening? I can't really explain it but the heat treatment, I think you got that correct, lets the metal on the outside of an item harden while the metal underneath stays softer and it gets that great coloration (no "dis" about it).

You might have too much time on your hands!

Seriously, leave it alone! Gorgeous gun!

 

[lonniesraw]

Someone said you can dry fire and achieve same results as a trigger job. How many times would you have to do that? And should I keep the hammer from slamming hard into the frame?

 

[arjay]

Case hardening is very thin,don't polish it off.Dry firing will help smooth the action and you can practice aiming and follow through at the same time.You can use snap caps if you like.

 

[lonniesraw]

I'm doing a lot of reading up hear guys. This is a great site. From what I'm reading people are saying a -4 is pretty desirable and a lot of people would prefer it over a new smith. Does that mean it's worth as much or more than a new one? I seen a new one for $829 on s&w site

 

[Green Frog]

Worth of a used gun is a function of how popular a particular gun is, its condition, and ultimately what the buyer and seller agree upon. From what I am seeing of prices around here at least, that is a fair price (to both of you.) Unless there is some undetected problem you haven't found or told us about yet, you can safely say you did well, IMHO. By the 4th change to the 686, the bugs and kinks were pretty much all worked out and S&W was cranking them out by the thousands for heavy duty in Law Enforcement. BTW, the 2 1/2" barrel seems to command a slight (or sometimes not-so-slight) premium around here, with 4" examples being more common by far. Just as an aside, if you want to separate yourself completely from Combat Tupperware, you might consider a nice set of factory wood stocks for that gun, or perhaps some quality aftermarket stocks from one of the large or small makers discussed frequently on this forum. I like to complete the fitting of the gun to my hand with the proper stocks.

Froggie

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

...I prefer the brushed stainless look, but I wanna get those scratches out. ..

This....

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...efinishing-stainless-steel-s-w-revolvers.html

PM me if you have a question. There's more than one way to skin a cat, but I've experimented with the cat a few times and have a way that works for me.

 

[lonniesraw]

The rear sights on this look off centered. Like i said i havent got a chance to shoot it yet so i cant say they are off.Would they have come from the factory like this? It doesnt have any heavy nicks like it has been dropped. I can upload a picture if you need a visual . The guy i bought it from said he bought it over ten years ago, put 2 boxes of ammo through it, and hasent touched it since. .......Can anyone point me in the right direction for a good inexpensive iwb holster?

 

[lonniesraw]

Thanks for all the quick info guys. You all are awesome.

 

[murphydog]

The rear sight blade ("slide" in S & W speak) is adjustable from left to right and up and down. It is possible the last owner needed the rear sight off-center because of his individual hold and load fired, so it may not shoot to the sights for you. It is also possible the barrel is not positiioned so the front sight is perfectly vertical (canted). Only a trip to the range will let you know how the sight needs to be set for you.

Others here have more holster experience, but there are several major companies and a few very good Forum members that can make one for you. Hope this is helpful.

 

[lonniesraw]

OK thanks.. so I should take a little screw driver with me to the range in case I need to adjust......should I get speed loaders or speed strips?

 

[murphydog]

For range use I find speedloaders very useful, but for carrying extra ammo along with the gun regularly the speed strips are much flatter. Imagine carrying one or more heavy golf ball sized objects everywhere, and where they will fit in your wardrobe .