What dash Model 48 cylinder

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any even a pre model. But, all have minor variations and may or may not require minor fitting. The length of the yoke tube and depth of center hole in cylinder are first up if you plan to share the original yoke. If tube is short for the second cylinder, shim(s) can be installed in it to take care of it. If the tube is long, (cylinder will not close) there are 2 options. 1 make the cylinder hole deeper with a special cutter or trim the end of yoke tube and then install shim(s) in original cylinder. Fit cylinder to yoke with ratchet, but without ejector rod so you know your dealing with cylinder to yoke fit not rod fit.

It is nice to use 2 yokes, but front profile on yokes changed over the years and models and even the same model and dash yoke frames will have some variations at the face as the originals were finished and polished as a set.

Some times the ejector rod or center pin is a bit long or short. Long is easy. Just trim down rod and center pin. To short is worse. You can try another rod assy or remove lug tooth and fie back the notch in it so it moves out a bit more. That may cause you to need to trim original cylinders rod a bit.

Usually the barrel to cylinder is acceptable and believe it or not, most of the time (not all) the carry up timing is good. I have even installed a 6 shot 32 cylinder in a 5 shot 38 J frame and had the carry up be ok. Yes, I changed the barrel too.
As years went by the overall shape of the ratchet teeth did change, but the actual surface the hand acts with did not

The early right hand ejector rods will not work with the later left hand ratchets, but you far better off if each cylinder has their own rod

I have swapped quite a few cylinders. Usually there is a bit of what I call fiddling to get them right. Minor adjustments here and there. Dual cylinder setups can sometimes compound this a bit to get both with in specs
 
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