What do I have?

tggm

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Hi all. I recently acquired a Smith and Wesson 38 special, six shot revolver, 4 inch barrel; which belonged of to dear friend of mine who has passed on. I'm trying to identify the model and age of this gun. The markings on it are as follows: the barrel’s left side reads SMITH & WESSON; the left side of the frame has the circular S&W logo partially covered by the grips (not original grips); the bottom of the butt strap contains the serial number 371XXX; the barrel’s right side reads 38 S & W CTG; and the barrel’s top side: SMITH & WESSON SPRINFIELD MASS USA; PATENTED FEB 6 06 SEPT. 14. 09. DEC. 29. 14.

Any thoughts on this item would be welcome.
 
Sorry right side of barrel actually reads 38 S & W Special CTG.
 
You have a .38 Military & Police (also called a Model of 1905/fourth change by collectors) that was probably shipped in 1921.

If the gun is clean and tight, it is probably safe to shoot. In a 90-year old .38 I would restrict myself to 148 gr match wadcutter loads, as they are a little less powerful that standard loads. The gun would not come apart if you shot standard ammo in it, but why stress the metal of a distinguished old classic if you don't have to?

We'd love to see photos if you have a camera.The .38 M&P is S&W's most successful model, with several million units produced between its 1899 introduction and today. Descendants of that design are still being made. There were some design changes through the decades, but the basic design principles -- mid-sized revolver frame, caliber, fixed sights -- remained constant.
 
David thanks for the information. I'll try and download some pictures. Also, the grips are not original. Where should I look for replacements that would be representative of the original issue?
 
You are looking for what are called non-medallion service stocks. Service stocks have semi-circular tops and the wood does not rise up over the sideplate and frame. They look like the ones on this gun.

IMG_2057.jpg


Sometimes they show up on Ebay, and often they are available on Gunbroker. You can also place a Want to Buy note in the classified section on this forum.
 
In a 90-year old .38 I would restrict myself to 148 gr match wadcutter loads, as they are a little less powerful that standard loads. The gun would not come apart if you shot standard ammo in it, but why stress the metal of a distinguished old classic if you don't have to?

I completely agree with this and have given the same advice to people in the past. However, just so you know, your revolver was made shortly after S&W began giving the cylinders heat treatment to strengthen them. This started in about 1920 with approximately serial number 316648. Again, even with this knowledge, I think you should follow David's good advice.
Jack
 
I know it looks tight, but there is about 1/8" of play on both axes. Also the box numbers to the gun and is labeled for a square butt.

IMG_2052.jpg


ADENDUM: I just realized that the beveled upper corners on the bottom half of the box create the illusion that the box is bowed out because an oversize item has been stuffed into it. I see now why you might have been led to think the box was too small for the gun.
 
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Hi Old TexMex:

To answer your question the hammer and trigger are blued.
 
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