I have a four inch S&W ,32 long barrel and a gunsmithing course next April, what is the easiest to find (and afford) S&W for convert to .32 S&W Long? I've seen several threads guys using .22 K frame for this but the problem seems to be having the cylinder machined for the new caliber, is anyone doing this work currently? So I'm looking for advice on the donor gun to look for and a shop for the cylinder conversion.
What is easiest K frame for .32 $&W Long conversion?
- Thread starter Trooperdan
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Green Frog
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If you already have the barrel, the hard part is done. Is it a 16-4 barrel with the under lug, or an earlier one? If earlier, you will want a Model 14 or 15, but if it has the lug, you’ll need a Model 19. As for the cylinder, you’ll need one from a Model 17 or 48. Reaming it to 32 S&W Long is pretty straightforward if you’re in a gunsmithing class. I’ve posted extensively here on the two I’ve had done. Please free to drop me a PM if you would like more details. Attached find the parts for my “Project 616”. The barrel had to be rebored and rerifled from 22 LR, a step you won’t have to take.
Green Frog
Green Frog
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I have converted a few K22 cylinders to 32 long, 32 H&R and 327 mag. I first turned a spud that fits tightly in a 22lr chamber. Then install it in milling machine and place cylinder in mill vise with jaws covered with brass plates. Use spud to line up perfectly in 22lr chamber, then replace spud with a 19/64 drill (0.2969) and drill out the chamber, then change to my 327 mag reamer. I have made a couple brass spacers that slide on it and lock in place with a set screw to limit the depth, so can use it for 32 long, 32 H&R or 327 mag But it will only cut rim recesses at 327 mag depths. K22 cylinders are recessed so you can either face that much off rear of cylinder or simply use a 4 flute 3/8" end mill to cut the recesses while set up on each chamber.
I keep my rpms way down probably around 100 and use lots of cutting oil, removing reamer about ever 1/4" of cut, spray it and chamber with brake cleaner, re oil and cut another 1/4" repeat until final depth.
I have always used center fire frames, as a rim fire frame would need some work to convert to center fire
I keep my rpms way down probably around 100 and use lots of cutting oil, removing reamer about ever 1/4" of cut, spray it and chamber with brake cleaner, re oil and cut another 1/4" repeat until final depth.
I have always used center fire frames, as a rim fire frame would need some work to convert to center fire
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Green Frog
Member
Steelslaver went into much more detail than I did on the DIY procedure. I’ll add that if you do keep the recessed chambers and don’t go to the full depth of the reamer, you can cut the rim recesses with an end mill of the proper diameter. Also, when reaming or milling with the extractor star in place, be sure to insert a couple of fired cases or other such items to support that part.
I like the recessed chamber rims on magnum calibers, but it seems that S&W has decided it makes no difference, so you can mill off the rear face of the cylinder or not to suit the frame. I have one of each.
His end statement on starting with centerfire frames is spot on. Changing a rimfire frame to centerfire is an extra step you really don’t need to take.
Froggie
I like the recessed chamber rims on magnum calibers, but it seems that S&W has decided it makes no difference, so you can mill off the rear face of the cylinder or not to suit the frame. I have one of each.
His end statement on starting with centerfire frames is spot on. Changing a rimfire frame to centerfire is an extra step you really don’t need to take.
Froggie
Green Frog
Member
PS I neglected to mention that if you have a very early barrel with narrow rim, that too becomes an issue and you need a frame for a narrow rib. Very early Model 14s work, and there were narrow rib 15s somewhat later.
Froggie
Froggie
Plus if you install a recessed cylinder in a non recessed frame, you will need to file back the frame lug .060 for the cylinder's extra rear length.
I use a cut down ejector rod and a small brass washer to hold the extractor star down tight to the cylinder and keep a few fired cases in chambers, original, then as I progress the new caliber.
A 3/8" end mill is the correct dia for the 32 rims and you need to make a stop either for the mills quill or the cutter so it only cuts .060 deep.
If you learn to run a mill, you can use an fix sight center fire frame and mill it for sights
In fact here is a thread on how I made a J&G gunsmith special model 10-7 frame into an adjustable sight 327 mag
K frame 327 project
I use a cut down ejector rod and a small brass washer to hold the extractor star down tight to the cylinder and keep a few fired cases in chambers, original, then as I progress the new caliber.
A 3/8" end mill is the correct dia for the 32 rims and you need to make a stop either for the mills quill or the cutter so it only cuts .060 deep.
If you learn to run a mill, you can use an fix sight center fire frame and mill it for sights
In fact here is a thread on how I made a J&G gunsmith special model 10-7 frame into an adjustable sight 327 mag
K frame 327 project
Larry, I was a fair machinist as a young man, but I would never have the confidence to try this level of mods to any gun I owned...even if I had all the tools to do so.
Robert
Robert
Why not? in some cases it is the only way to get what you really want. The frames are the only part difficult to replace, You can find most cylinders and barrels for under $100. Yokes, hammers and the other small parts not expensive.
Modifying a frame does take some confidence, but if you go slow and make light cuts and check yourself often it will work.
This 4 1/4" 45 colt started life as a fixed sight 45 acp Brazilian
It is wearing adjustable sights a cut down 1950 barrel and 44 msg cylinder reamed to become a recessed 45 colt with .452 throats. I have since gave it a bath in my blue tanks
This 3 1/4" 45acp/colt came into my possession as a 1917 with no barrel, I have cut down the grip frame, reamed a non recessed 44 mag cylinder to 45 colt, then recessed it so it also shoots 45 acp in full moons and added sights and a 1950 barrel I chopped
Any K frame 32 cal will run you $2000 now
This one started life as J&G gunsmith special. Now it is an impossible (as in never ever made) to find 327 mag K frame. I made it for $465
10-7 frame from J&G $180+$30 shipping and $10 FFL charge (2frames for 20) total $220
Old K22 barrel $60, K frame sight $55, and the hammer $35 total $150 so $370. Reamer rental $40, a can of carb cleaner $5. $415 and then 1/2 the cost of a 32-20 rifle barrel-$50
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