WHAT I'VE FOUND TO BE THE WORLDS BEST SCOPE MOUNTING RINGS

[chief38]

Over the last 20 years I have fallen in love with Leupold Scopes and have used them exclusively on any Rifle I own that gets scoped.

The next important decision is which scope rings to mount them with. About 20 years ago (or there-about) I discovered the Burris Signature Scope Rings which come in all different types of mount styles. Since I am not a Big Game Hunter all my Leupold Scopes are on .22 Rimfire Rifles and so I use the type that mount on the grooved rails of most Rimfire Rifles.

In a nut shell, the Burris Signature Rings have semi-circular plastic inserts of 6 different thicknesses (+.005, +.010, +.020, -.005, -.010 -.020) which do a few things. First they shim the scope in any direction you want (not just vertically or horizontally but any which way it must be moved) and by using different sized shims turned different ways you can get the rifle to shoot groups in the black without even adjusting the cross hairs. Secondly, they keep the scope from ever having a chance to move. They really hold the scope in place better than metal on metal! Third, they will allow you to have a scope mounted on a rifle indefinitely and if 6 years down the road you want to remove it there will be NO MARKS at all on the scope tube - NONE!

So what's the big deal?? OK, as some of you might have guessed by now I am sort of a perfectionist. When you get a new scope (new or used) the first thing you should do is zero it. That means you need to figure out the total amount of clicks of travel. Then take that number and starting from one side (doesn't matter which dead end), turn the adjustment 1/2 the amount and your cross hair is now exactly centered. Do the same with the other cross hair and your scope is now zeroed. Then focus the scope for your eyes and set Parallax to proper distance (if you have that feature on your scope)

Use the Signature Ring Shims at the Range to get your Rifle to shoot groups anywhere in the black, and THEN use the adjustment knobs to fine sight it. By doing this you get the LEAST AMOUNT of distortion through your scope and no blacked out side areas. You also allow for maximum amount of adjustment for different situations in the field. I've done over a dozen Rifles with this system and am able to get groups in the Black in about 20 minutes or less before fine sighting with the adjustment knobs. You will need a pair of levels just like when you mount any scope with any Ring system of course. Once you get this done, seat your Allen Head or Torx screws evenly and to the proper torque and your scope will NEVER move! If and when you ever want to change scopes or just move it forward or back, there will be NO MARKS on the scope tube .

These Burris Signature Rings will work with any brand of Scope and Rifle as long as you purchase the proper set. They are sold by many Company's although the best source I have found with the best inventory and pricing has been Optics Planet (I am NOT affiliated with them in any way). Even though I have been using these rings for many years I just thought to do a thread on them now - but better late then never!

Signature Rings™ | Burris Optics

 

[dubtap21]

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[Ivan the Butcher]

Signature rings come in 1" and 30mm sizes! There is a shim kit that has 6 of each size shim. This kit is fantastic! But only comes in 1"!

If you have a rifle that the scope base screw holes were drilled not parallel to the bore, this is the best and easiest fix! You can move a line of sight up to .040" in any one direction (on most average scopes that's about 40 MOA or 40 inches at 100 yards) It take a pretty big screw-up to be beyond these rings ability to correct!

If everything was drilled correct, these rings take over the function of a inclined scope base (for long distances!) Most scopes with 1" tubes have a total of 64MOA of adjustment in both directions. Ideally, that is 32 MOA on each side of the cross hair, BUT often you end up using a bunch just getting the scope centered at your zero distance, Then you run out of "Come-Ups" when at distance. This cleans all that mess up!

In theory, you could use a +20 MOA base and set the rings for another 40 MOA and have 32 MOA in the scope for 92 MOA (or 92" at 100 yards, 7 feet 8 inches!), This is the kind of elevation for shoot 22's at 600 yards! You would think nobody would ever need that. However there are 2 varmint hunters shooting Prairie Dogs at 2 Miles, they developed a mounting system for an 800 MOA adjustable base. The both succeeded about 7 or 8 years ago! That's shooting a pop can sized target at 3400+ yards! they used a 308 A.I. Win with 200 grain VLD bullets. Their mid range trajectory was in the hundreds of feet!

It is amazing what you can do with a little extra elevation adjustment!

Ivan

 

[vonn]

Learn something new everyday,thanks for the information.

 

[Frank46]

Have seen more than one scope have the scope body badly damaged by crummy rings. Years back many shooters did lap the scope rings to get a better fit and prevent scope damage. I've been using the Burris scope rings with the inserts for years and have had absolutely no problems with scope damage or the scope moving within the rings. Won't use any other brand. My old Sako model 75 in 30-06 has the Sako rings with inserts and have not had any problems with having to rezero after a long period of time. Shoots the same as the day I put the rings on with a Leupold 4.5x14 years ago. Frank

 

[model70hunter]

I use Leupold rings, I center the scope and use the back rings to center the cross hairs on either my bore site or a 25 yard mark.

Don't know if it helps or not but I feel if needed I'll have all the windage adjustment needed.

Never knew about the rings till now. I'll Lok into them nect time.

Thanks.

 

[jaymoore]

...When you get a new scope (new or used) the first thing you should do is zero it. That means you need to figure out the total amount of clicks of travel. Then take that number and starting from one side (doesn't matter which dead end), turn the adjustment 1/2 the amount and your cross hair is now exactly centered. Do the same with the other cross hair and your scope is now zeroed. Then focus the scope for your eyes and set Parallax to proper distance (if you have that feature on your scope)

To get optical zero, put your scope in two small v-blocks (with anti-scuff plates- can be as simple as tape) or a set of roller "V's" and then make adjustments until the cross hair intersection doesn't move when the scope is rotated. In theory it should be the middle of adjustment but often isn't.

Certain advantages to finding optical center, but many folk won't notice. Just one more thing for perfectionists to check!

(Also a fan of the Burris Signature rings! Have used them for years when possible. Especially useful when using dual dovetail bases.)