What might we have here?

44HE

I have read with interest all of the comments on this old Smith 44. These old shooters have made history in a way no NIB gun made in 1915 will ever be able to do. I see these "project" guns as a piece of canvas that begs to have an artwork painted on it. True, you will not recapture the money spent on it. But life is not all about money or value, it is mostly about the adventure of doing something that generates the creative spirit. The search for the alusive part, the right grips, that personal touch that says this is my custom gun! I have done at least a dozen of what I call "graveyard" projects that were resurrections of dead, abused, hopeless cases. They are my beauties and I value them more than the ones in my safe that are safe"queens". I currently have 3 in the Que as "project" status, A Winchester 1894 and 2 S&W 44s. Call me crazy but I have developed a network of friends that have helped with my projects and theirs. Good luck with whatever you decide as to the fate of that old shooter. ENJOY!
 
Very few people who restore cars sell them at a profit. For them, it's a labor of love. I've restored a couple of guns over the years and ended up falling in love with them. They have a character that a new or nearly new gun lacks. I love a challenge. Having said that, I DO love my pristine collectables also.

We're talking two different catagories. You'll never turn this sow's ear into a silk purse, but you can turn it into a neat piece of history. Whenever you handle it, you can remember that you rescued this bad boy from a fate worse than death, er the scrap heap.
 
Starting back in the '70s, I started collecting S&W parts, including several .45 ACP cylinders and yokes. While I was overseas and ebay was still selling gun parts, I picked up a fair number of parts also.

Finally, I found a couple of stripped, barreled frames.

Here is one of them, a 1917 that I saved.

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I have had a couple of other big bore revolvers, including a 2nd model .44, that had been chooped. They all had their worth.
 
Wow, I have to say that I'm really touched by all the positive thoughts, words and encouragement. Not to mention all the interest being shown by those who see it's potential as, at the very least, a fun project.

Our inclination, at this stage, is to follow the suggestion of replacing the missing parts and slap an appropriate pair of grips onto it. The question, then, is are N-frame parts interchangeable? We're not looking to get period correct parts; just those that will fit and work... We usually buy from Numrich or Midway. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Other parts sources are:
Jack First, Inc.
Popperts Gun Parts.

Both have websites. You can Google them. I would also try the WTB section of this board.

Several years ago I wrote a submission on "generationally" interchangeable parts. It is unfortunately no longer on the board. To give you the short version:

Triggers up until the MIM ones will work.
Hammers up until the short action (Model 1950s) came in, including the transition guns.
Modern hands will work.
Cylinder stops until end of WWII will work.
Modern mainsprings will work.

The downside is the ejector rod for this vintage is the rarest.

Good luck on the project.
 
It seems to me that Tennexplorer's submission on 'generationally' interchangeable parts, would be a candidate for the 'notable thread' listing, if it can be recovered.
 
Yes, I would love to see the full version of the "Interchangable Parts" post.

Tennexplorer, did you by chance save a copy you could post now?
 
I'm creeping out of my self-imposed time out to offer an opinion on the gun and and opinion on the opinions.

The gun... did I read the price was $80? I'd be on that like white on rice... like ugly on Rosie O'Donnell... like ethics charges on a member of the Obama Administration. I would polish it myself and cold blue it and find the missing parts and shoot the Hell out of it.

The opinions... well, Mike is never shy about expressing his feelings. Yes, the gun is a beater. Yes, it's NOT something that would interest a collector of his stature (or any other "collector" for that matter). Yes, Mike can be a bit brusque at times with his evaluations. But I still respect his knowledge and experience and his comments should not be taken personally. He only speaks of the guns, not the owners. He has helped far more people than he has offended so as far as I am concerned he is still in positive territory.

I know that many folks think I am also too critical and undiplomatic at times but that's the way it was in my family and I was raised to be direct and honest. We didn't sugarcoat things around my house when I was growing up. We didn't call a spade a spade, it was bleeping shovel. (Oh man, I hope that doesn't get me in trouble, again.)

Finally, my thoughts on hiding serial numbers are well known. If someone can provide evidence of even one instance where mischief was successfully perpetrated by someone gleaning a posted serial then I will apologize to everyone I have accused of being paranoid. (I still recall the new guy who posted his serial as N6xxxxx. I mean, really, how paranoid can we get? Wouldn't one x be enough?)

Crawling back into my corner now.
 
I'm too new, around here, to be at all familiar with Mike or any past brusqueness that he may be guilty of. Suffice it to say that I considered his comments to be his honest opinion of the gun, not me, and that we all know about opinions; like the other thing...everybody has one.

In any case, I'm currently wrangling with my boss over acquiring this old Smith for myself. I've decided to make it mine because I'm someone whose heart goes out to any gun that has been used and abused but has the potential to be brought back to some semblance of usability.

In any case, I very much appreciate the info and suggestions of tennexplorer. As mentioned, and as far as I can tell without removing the side plate, the only parts I'll be needing are the mainspring, thumb latch, cylinder stop and grips. Trigger, hammer, ejector and cylinder all seem to be in good shape. Some 0000 steel wool, a bit of elbow grease and some cold blue and this one just might surpass my Model 28 as the star of my modest personal collection of classic shooters (alongside an early post-war Walther P-38 and late 60's ex-Hamburg police .32 Walther PP).
 
Just two thoughts; use 0000 brass wool, it's less harsh and forego the cold blue. The look of Muleygil's 1917 has a lot of panache. Just MHO to consider or disregard. Glad you decided to give it a go!
 
Yes, I would love to see the full version of the "Interchangable Parts" post.

Tennexplorer, did you by chance save a copy you could post now?

No, I didn't, or if I did it was almost four years ago and it's gone. I have learned a lot since then. I will re-write it next week and post it. I've got a rotten cold right now and literary works aren't gonna happen. (This board needs a sneeze icon.)

However, in the meantime, here is a picture of Frankengun. It has parts from 1917 until the mid 1980s.

IMG_0632.jpg
 
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Just two thoughts; use 0000 brass wool, it's less harsh and forego the cold blue. The look of Muleygil's 1917 has a lot of panache. Just MHO to consider or disregard. Glad you decided to give it a go!

Thanks for the tip. I agree; always thought 0000 steel wool was a bit harsh. This thing needs cleaning, not polishing... I was thinking cold blue just as a corrosion preventative, unless anyone can suggest anything else other than drenching it in Rem Oil...?

I also agree about Muleygil's 1917; looks gorgeous and I especially like the look of those grips.
 
"I was thinking cold blue just as a corrosion preventative, unless anyone can suggest anything else other than drenching it in Rem Oil...?"

My 1917 has been in the white for at least 5 years and I haven't had problems with rust.

The grips were made by Forum member Kurac. You can do a search if you wish to send him a PM. They have a Coke profile.

(Coke profile refers to a type of target grip found on some S&Ws in the '50s & '60s that felt somewhat like holding a Coca-Cola bottle in ones hand)
 
I remember back in the early 1970s, when I was a young deputy sheriff and not taking home a very big pay check. I was already into guns and read everything I could get my hands on about them, particularly handguns. One of my favorite writers was Skeeter Skelton. Reading what he had to say about 44 Specials made me want one in the worst way.

Unfortunately back then no one was making them and finding one was close to a miracle. When you did they wanted way, way more than I could afford for just "one" gun (smile). In fact the first 44 Special I ever owned was one of the first two Charter Arms Bulldogs to hit our town. Dang thing nearly tore off my thumb when I shot the first round, consisting of a Lyman 429421 cast from wheel weights over 7.5g of Unique. (LOL)

It was a long time before I could afford a real (rather than painful) 44 Special. When I could it naturally was a S&W. Guess that memory and experience makes me think much more kindly about this old 44 than you collector types. I was actually offended by the boat anchor comment...but I'll get over it.

Wilmoe, I would have PM'd an offer to buy it "as is" but there's so many ahead of me I won't bother. I wouldn't mind having such a project at all, and I would have bent over backwards in the early 1970s to get a gun like that. It would have been a treasure for sure. (big smiley face goes here)

Dave
 
"Dang thing nearly tore off my thumb when I shot the first round, consisting of a Lyman 429421 cast from wheel weights over 7.5g of Unique. (LOL)"

Yup. Did the same thing; even with Goodyear grips, that little sucker kicked!

"I remember back in the early 1970s, when I was a young deputy sheriff and not taking home a very big pay check. I was already into guns and read everything I could get my hands on about them, particularly handguns. One of my favorite writers was Skeeter Skelton. Reading what he had to say about 44 Specials made me want one in the worst way."

Back in 1976, I took Skeeter to heart and converted a M27 to .44 Special.
 
I have posted before about having the urge to bob the barrels on old classics. I cut a couple many years ago, but agree with others that there are enough samples available that others have already ruined as collectables. This is a real "no loss" to collectors. Many feel as I do, as seen by the number of inquiries to buy. I bought a cut 1950 Target .45 a while back from Fugate to save even a fair specimen from being cut by me.
 
I have posted before about having the urge to bob the barrels on old classics. I cut a couple many years ago, but agree with others that there are enough samples available that others have already ruined as collectables. This is a real "no loss" to collectors. Many feel as I do, as seen by the number of inquiries to buy. I bought a cut 1950 Target .45 a while back from Fugate to save even a fair specimen from being cut by me.

I did the same thing but not from fugate. Bought a pre model 26 and not only saved an original gun but the cost to do it, and not to mention that I saved 1/3 of the price of a long barrel original but saved over 1/2 of a 4" original! And I shoot it as much as I want with no guilt whatsoever.
 
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OK, I got the parts interchangeability article rewritten. Bad part is - it's two and 1/2 pages. I am going to post it over in gunsmithing. Hope it helps. Comments welcome.
 
This thing needs cleaning, not polishing... I was thinking cold blue just as a corrosion preventative, unless anyone can suggest anything else other than drenching it in Rem Oil...?

QUOTE]

Personally I would Parkerize it. Easy enough to do yourself, covers a fair amount of metal roughness and makes a durable finish for a field gun.
 
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