What revolver may be a better fit for me than my new model 67?

If you bought a recent manufactured 67 it should be a round butt model - you can take the grips off and see. The grips that are currently on the gun are probably RB to SB conversion grips.
This is all conjecture based upon the last newly made 67 I saw.
 
Decided to keep it, work on my arm and hand strengths, and keep shooting it and practicing with it. Have snap caps.

Went to see my FFL today to get a copy of some paperwork I didn't have on the gun (only 3 weeks old), and held and dry fired some of his S&W revolvers. 686's in 4, 6 and the big 8 inches. Afterward I came home and dry fired mine for a while and it felt a lot smaller and lighter. So, the new 67 is staying with me! Thanks for the comments. Bud
 
I agree with many of the previous posts...stick with your K frame (medium frame) Model 67. It is a great learning gun, great all around gun.

Safe dry fire practice will help you grow used to the weight. As others have noted, heavy is good for shooting. New shooters want light guns, but, truth be told, they kick hard and are less fun to shoot. The new shooter can develop a "flinch"...which destroys accuracy.

If your hands are small, go with a grip that does not cover the back strap of the pistol. This will reduce trigger reach (distance to the trigger) and the circumference of the grip.

Check out the Pachmayr Compact Professional grip. It fills in the gap behind the trigger guard (a good thing), but does not cover the backstrap. It doesn't add much bulk and is a comfortable, affordable shooting grip.

Lastly, start out with Wadcutter ammo. These are target rounds (designed, originally, to make neat holes in targets...ie, cut wad). The bullet is completely flat and barely visible (it barely extends from the cartridge case, unlike a round nose or "semi wadcutter" bullet). Wadcutter loads are accurate and generate minimal recoil. These loads will help you develop the fundamentals of marksmanship. Avoid hard kicking loads while you're learning the basics. Finding an experienced shooter to help coach you can save you lots of time. Trial and error works, but takes time. And ammo ain't cheap!

Enjoy! Welcome to shooting...
 
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Don't listen to any of these guys!!! You need to buy another gun - several more in fact - in differing calibers.

That way you can compare and contrast the weight and balance of each.

You have now been officially enabled.

You're welcome.:D

Seriously though, once you shoot it a lot and become used to the heft of your 67, it'll feel as comfortable as an old pair of jeans. Congratulations on a wise choice in firearms.
 
I concur with sticking with the model 67 as it's a great revolver and the more you shoot it the better it will feel and the more you will get use to it.

People are correct when they say a revolver that is a lot lighter will produce more recoil and it's very noticable.
 
As others have mentioned, the smaller, lighter guns are considerably more difficult to learn to shoot well. Your K frame is just about the perfect all around revolver.
 
dont get rid of that 67 it is the best you can get for a starting shooter.do what APS said and work on building up your arms.I have a book on revolver shooting from the 1940s and it said to do 25 push ups every night and dry fire 25 times a night.
 
...I have a book on revolver shooting from the 1940s and it said to do 25 push ups every night and dry fire 25 times a night.

Every punch line that comes to mind would get me banned.:p
 
dont get rid of that 67 it is the best you can get for a starting shooter.do what APS said and work on building up your arms.I have a book on revolver shooting from the 1940s and it said to do 25 push ups every night and dry fire 25 times a night.

Yes, decided to keep it. Have snap caps and plan on shooting it when I can and dry firing it regularly. I appeciate all the comments which probably kept me from selling it and looking for something else. It is a very nice gun indeed. Bud

6/10/11 - Went back to the range today after a lot of dry firing ove the past week or so. Big difference. Shot better, arm was not as tired and it seemed so much easier to manage. Also builds confidence. Thanks. Bud
 
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Went back to the range for the second time today after a week or so of a lot of dry firing. Definitely helped. Shot better and my hand and arm was not as tired as the first time. Builds confidence too. Thanks. Bud
 
Went back to the range for the second time today after a week or so of a lot of dry firing. Definitely helped. Shot better and my hand and arm was not as tired as the first time. Builds confidence too. Thanks. Bud

Hey Bud, welcome to the forum and congrats on beginning to use your new 67.

Dry fire can't be overemphasised imo. While there is no substitute for live fire, basic fundamentals and muscle memory are only served if you repeat the process ad infinitum. I'm curious as to how your groups improved from initially til now.

So...whatz up with the group sizes so far? NOT trying to flame you but I'd be suprised if you're not finding them getting smaller each time.

Again, welcome to the forum.
 
I have small hands. A J frame is a bit too small for comfortable shooting with wood grips, but near perfect if I use these:

Pachmayr Compac Grips S&W J-Frame Round Butt Rubber Black - MidwayUSA

If you keep the K frame, you might consider going to grips that match the frame itself:

Item 1713019 Details: grips4guns.com

I'm using them on a 686...feels better to me, but I need some time shooting with them to really know.

If you don't mind switching, then a Ruger SP101 with the old style grips are near perfect for small hands.

It isn't just the backstrap to trigger distance, but how wide they are that forces your hand to shift to get around them

I've also got a Ruger Alaskan in 44 Mag. I finally got the old style Ruger compact rubber grip, and it has gone from 'shoot 12 rounds and whimper' to 'shoot 50 rounds one handed and enjoy'. The right grip for your hand is HUGE in shooting.
 
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