What's wrong with my 19-3?

beltron462

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I've got a 19-3 that my dad gave me about 10 years ago. I'm assuming it's from the mid to late 70's (did a little research and I know he bought it used in mid seventies). He never fired it much, probably two or three times from the time he bought it. I fired it about ten years ago, and don't remember any problems (I think I used .38's). However, I recently took it to the range with an older box of 158 grain SP ammo that I bought quite some time ago and I've encountered a problem. After my third round the cylinder tightened up to the point where I couldn't even pull the hammer back. Then the cylinder wouldn't open for about two minutes after the last round was fired. Could it be the ammo? Someone said maybe a bad batch of metal from the factory. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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It could be gummed up old lubricants . I recommend letting a pro or even S&W handle it . I would . Especially after the first time I took a side plate off , thinking since I could rebuild any motorcycle , farm tractor , or cooko-clock , a simple hand gun should be nothing .
 
The revolver may need to have the "end shake" checked. After shooting it, look at the barrel/cylinder gap and see if there is daylight between the two. If not, the cylinder needs to be set back by stretching the yoke to open up the gap. When you fire it, the barrel and cylinder heat up, the metal expands, and the cylinder then expands to the point where it rubs agains the back of the barrel. Are there rub marks on the face of the cylinder?
 
I bought a used 66-2 a few months ago. Had a similar problem. I think there was gunk under the ejector star from suggestions on various forums. A very good scrubbing of the underside of the star and the face of the cylinder seems to have resolved the issue. You might try some penetrating oil to loosen up any hardened gunk.
 
Check if the screw on the lower forward right of the sideplate is tight with a proper screwdriver; this is the one that holds the yoke (crane) and cylinder in place. Next, make sure the ejector rod is tight; it has a left-hand thread so it's "lefty-tighty". If these are secure, it may be gummed up by old stuff inside the action as BTRH suggested. There is no harm in putting a small amount of lube inside to see if it frees things up, but you may not be able to test that until you get to shoot it again.

It has been shot so little that it's hard to imagine it was damaged by firing, but just in case don't use any more of that ammo...
 
Thanks for all of the advice. I'll be sure to try these fixes and hope that I can find a solution to the problem. Is it still safe to fire the gun? Considering the fact that I'll probably have to fire it to see if any of these suggestions work.
 
It could just need cleaned. If it was fired with .38's and then you attempted to fire .357's, they could have been jammed up by an old carbon ring.

This can cause the case heads to be jammed back against the recoil shield and bind up.

Look inside the cylinder before you do anything expensive....:)
 
Your 19-3 could have the gas ring on the yoke. Mine was accumulating firing residue after a few boxes of ammo. You need to remove the cylinder from the yoke (remove the front sideplate screw) and clean and lube the yoke / cylinder bearing surface. If it spins freely after reassembly, that's the problem. S&W put the gas ring back on the cylinder at the 19-4 change. Many years ago, they were updating -3 revolvers free of charge to the gas ring on the cylinder - you might call them and ask if they are still doing that. Good Luck!
 
Can anybody out there date the gun for me? Serial number is 2K61xxx. Thanks.
 
It sounds like the ejector rod is loose. It is threaded left hand like the other poster said. I would clean the gun well and make sure the ejector rod is tight and try it again. It doesn't sound like a serious problem. If that doesn't work hopefully you can find a local guy to take a look at it and give you some hands on guidance.
 
Looks like the date of mfg is 1972

also looks like murphydog beat me by a few seconds
 
Thanks for all the suggestions and information. It is much appreciated. I tried just about everything everyone mentioned (checked ejector rod- seemed pretty tight, cleaned thouroughly, etc.), but the cylinder is still very tight and it takes a pretty good push to pop it out, which I assume means I would get the same results from firing it. Might try some .38's through it, but I think it's time to just send it to smith and see what they can do. Thanks again. I'll post anything I find out.
 
Found an old-timer around my area who says he can fix my problem. Took it to him a couple of days ago. I'll update when I hear something.
 
I third the ejector rod deal and also suggest a big time cleaning.....that will probably take care of it if it wasn't the protruding primers on the spent shells doing it which it might be as well.
 
Well, I picked up the gun yesterday. Cylinder is back to normal (actually it hasn't been this easy to release since it was given to me!), and the gunsmith said it was fired and worked flawlessly. I was told that it was cleaned and "readjusted". By the way, this place was an old barn/gunshop that looked like it was there for 50 years, so I was fairly confident in the guy's ability to fix it. What a character and what a good find! I haven't taken it to the range yet, but plan to this week. Thanks again for all of the suggestions. Sounds like most of you were right- needed taken apart and cleaned thoroughly. Just in case anyone's curious, it cost me all of 35$. Pretty good deal I think. Especially considering the fact that the first place I took it to said it would cost me "a good amount" to have Smith and Wesson fix it, so I should probably just trade it in for something else???? Wow, I guess I know where to go for repairs now.
 

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