When to adjust sights on a revolver?

jamesallen

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I was wondering, if you have a revolver with adjustable sights, say a model 15 or a model 19, when would you actually take advantage of that feature and adjust the sights? I.e., what circumstances or situation might require you to get the screwdriver out and change the sight picture?
 
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I was wondering, if you have a revolver with adjustable sights, say a model 15 or a model 19, when would you actually take advantage of that feature and adjust the sights? I.e., what circumstances or situation might require you to get the screwdriver out and change the sight picture?

When point-of-aim and point-of-impact are different.
 
I don't mean to be flippant, so apologies if I sound that way. Change the sights when the gun isn't shooting to your point of aim. I mean, that's the purpose of adjustable sights. You may find your hold is different than someone else's so the sights need to be changed. Or a different load prints differently. I wouldn't be changing them "all the time" because that might mean your technique is varying. Chasing the bullet with adjustable sights is likely to be more confusing than leaving them alone and working on technique.
 
I've most often used a sight adjustment tool when I first get the gun.

Smith adjustable sights don't spontaneously move nor are they fragile. They don't move unless someone has moved them or mounted them improperly.

When you get a new one, or a used one for that matter, you may have to adjust the sights for you. The factory settings are likely to be off for most buyers. There's a fair chance that a used gun has been adjusted for the previous owner and may need some adjustment to fit the new owner.
 
I would just add, sight in from a solid rest and use as consistent gun handling as possible (single action, slow fire). If the sights are off, then adjust.

If you then use the gun offhand and your groups are not nicely centered, then you may need more work on your gun handling. :)
 
I would just add, sight in from a solid rest and use as consistent gun handling as possible (single action, slow fire). If the sights are off, then adjust.

If you then use the gun offhand and your groups are not nicely centered, then you may need more work on your gun handling. :)

Maybe this varies from one shooter to the next, but...I've found if you zero from a rest, your point-of-impact will be different, often significantly, than if you zero from the position you normally shoot from.

I shoot from a rest, and at 25 yards, only to see how well a particular load groups on paper. I zero using the Bullseye stance (one hand) at the same distance. For me, this consistently brings the point-of-impact down a few inches if I shoot Weaver-style using two hands. 95% or more of my shooting is Bullseye style and I'm always conscious that the groups will be lower if I use two hands.

Before you do any sight zeroing offhand, make sure your shooting skill is up to it, otherwise you're only wasting ammo. A 25 yard zero using a six o'clock hold will generally put your point-of-impact where it needs to be at shorter distances as well, but be mindful of possible exceptions. Good luck-
 
I first decide on the ammunition that will be the major type and brand I use in said revolver. Each different bullet shape, grain weight and brand will shoot to a different point assuming the distance is the same. Once I settled in on a specific round I then adjust the sights for that round at a specific distance.

Once that is done, I rarely ever touch the sights again unless the ammo is changed.
 
I started out with fixed sights, was naive and assumed that if I wasn't hitting where I wanted, my technique needed work. I did the work, got the desired results.

After awhile buying revolvers with adjustable sights, I realized that once sighted in, I never adjusted the sights again. One exception: when I experimented with 200 gr .357 loads, had to come down 13 clicks.

After breaking several rear sight blades on steering wheels, door frames, etc I went back to fixed sights for serious purposes. Turns out I wasn't as naive as I once thought.
 
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Maybe this varies from one shooter to the next, but...I've found if you zero from a rest, your point-of-impact will be different, often significantly, than if you zero from the position you normally shoot from.

I shoot from a rest, and at 25 yards, only to see how well a particular load groups on paper. I zero using the Bullseye stance (one hand) at the same distance. For me, this consistently brings the point-of-impact down a few inches if I shoot Weaver-style using two hands. 95% or more of my shooting is Bullseye style and I'm always conscious that the groups will be lower if I use two hands.

Before you do any sight zeroing offhand, make sure your shooting skill is up to it, otherwise you're only wasting ammo. A 25 yard zero using a six o'clock hold will generally put your point-of-impact where it needs to be at shorter distances as well, but be mindful of possible exceptions. Good luck-

Agreed, what I was getting at was "mechanical accuracy" vs. "practical accuracy". If the OP prints tiny groups from a rest and similar but non-centered groups offhand, then by all means adjust the sight accordingly. If the rested groups are small but unsupported all over the place, or if both are more patterns, more range time! :)
 
I don't mean to be flippant, so apologies if I sound that way. Change the sights when the gun isn't shooting to your point of aim. I mean, that's the purpose of adjustable sights. You may find your hold is different than someone else's so the sights need to be changed. Or a different load prints differently. I wouldn't be changing them "all the time" because that might mean your technique is varying. Chasing the bullet with adjustable sights is likely to be more confusing than leaving them alone and working on technique.

Yes, everything in my model 19 is a little to the right, so I wonder, should I adjust the sights, or just practice so I can shoot better?
 
Once you can shoot a continuously tight group that is not exactly in the center of your aiming point, then you should adjust the sights. If your groups are wide and dispersed, you need to work on your shooting techniques.

Yes, I'm getting a big ragged hole with my model 19 (along with a few more flinchies and fliers surrounding it than I would like), but it's to the right of the bullseye, which makes me think, maybe it's sight adjustment time...
 
I first decide on the ammunition that will be the major type and brand I use in said revolver. Each different bullet shape, grain weight and brand will shoot to a different point assuming the distance is the same. Once I settled in on a specific round I then adjust the sights for that round at a specific distance.

Once that is done, I rarely ever touch the sights again unless the ammo is changed.

Thanks, that is a terrific suggestion.
 
How many of us really need "pinpoint accuracy?" At my advanced age, I am generally able to hit center mass at 20 feet, one round per second. What more do you need?

Now if you are a serious competition shooter that is a different story. Pick a gun, then a load and start with some sort of "steady rest" and adjust your sights from there.

Remember that MOST firearms, as shipped from the factory are way more accurate than the person shooting it.
 
Yes, everything in my model 19 is a little to the right, so I wonder, should I adjust the sights, or just practice so I can shoot better?

No harm in adjusting the sights to see what happens. Experimentation and learning can be a big part of our shooting activities. One note, though. People have mentioned shooting from a rest. With a handgun, you can reasonably expect your point of impact to be different from a rest compared to shooting unsupported. Your grip when shooting unsupported has an effect as well. How tightly do you hold the gun? That affects muzzle flip. One handed or two handed? Also affects point of impact.

I get the most representative results shooting from a rest when I support my wrist on the bags; not the gun. This is more like unsupported shooting in how the gun reacts to grip. You're just steadying your hand. It's still not exactly like shooting unsupported. Lots of influencing things going on. Only you can decide what's right for you. As mentioned earlier, give it a go! Change the sights and see if you like the results. Just be sure you don't change the sights on too little information, like chasing single holes around the target with sight changes. You need enough holes to give adequate information for a change.
 
Beware of adjustments on the rear sight on used handguns. I swear I never saw so many handguns with the sights being "off" when I managed a shooting range.

You experienced shooters know what I am talking about. A know-it-all trying to impress someone. He shows up, shoots something that may pass as a pattern, then the screwdriver comes out. He ends up blaming the sights for being "off" as his inability to shoot a good group.

I have one gun that the sights were off. It is a Ruger Vaquero that was shooting to the left. I had the gunsmith tweak the barrel slightly to get things centered.

Anyway my point is when buying a used gun with adjustable sights be prepared to bring a screwdriver with you the first time going to the range.
 
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Shooting from a rest shouldn't make much difference in POA-POI with a handgun if done correctly.
Some people make the mistake of resting the frame of the gun, or worse yet, the barrel on the support itself. That will definitely affect POA-POI as the gun will not recoil naturally. You should let your forearms rest on the support, not the gun itself. This will allow the gun to recoil naturally.
With a long gun, you can rest the forearm or front of the stock, not the barrel.
 
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