Which one?

h2ov

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Florida, Treasure Coast
I am looking at a 686 with a 4" barrel. The second revolver is a Dan Wesson. It comes with three barrels. Please, the pros and cons of each. Also, what does no dash mean? Thanks in advance.
 
If an older pre-lock 686, the Smith would be the better gun.
No dash means it's a first "gen" model, before any subsequent manufacturing variations were made later on.

The older L-Frames were among the best revolvers S&W made, strong & reliable.

The Dan Wessons have had mixed reviews at various times.
The DW a friend wanted to trade me for a Smith 19 snub wouldn't reliably return the trigger in 1976.
In 1981 a gal who went through the police academy with me could not keep her DW running long enough to qualify.

Back from about '75-'85, in my part of the world, the DW was very popular among silhouette shooters because of its accuracy, but was very rarely seen in police holsters because it wasn't trusted enough.

I knew a Class III dealer (Machinegun Marvin, we called him) who was heavily into metallic silhouette competition that liked them, again for their accuracy, and he had a spare or two in case one went down during a match. Did not promote them for "serious" uses.

Met a police chief in my pre-cop days when he responded to a small-town suspicious persons report late one night (me & two buddies), he had a DW stuck in his pants belt. We discussed it while he ran us, had the three-barrel pistol pak & liked it.

One drawback with swapping barrels around is that you usually have to sight the gun in again each time.

Those are my "experiences", others seem to like the DWs. I personally wouldn't own one.
Just me. :)
Denis
 
Thanks for the info. In your opinion I should look for a 686 pre lock revolver? I would assume a no dash would be a pre lock revolver. Sorry for the basic questions, I am new to this and am learning as I go. Thanks, Dave.
 
Dave, the lock came along with the -6 variation of the M686,
so any dash number prior to that (-5 & earlier) won't have the IL.
 
In my opinion, yes- pre lock.
Others don't mind the lock, but the older versions prior to it & MIM parts are preferable & generally better quality overall, again in my opinion.

Others will probably be along to differ, your choice.
I had one of the first year 586s & I have a current production one here now, they are not equal.
Had a new 686 a few months ago, same.
They'll shoot, but... :)
Denis
 
Since they have been mentioned, the MIM parts came along with the -5 variation.....:)
 
I own a lot of S&W revolvers, have owned several hundred more over the years (yes, I do get carried away with my guns), and have also owned several Dan Wessons. The 686 is a high quality firearm, and those that I have owned have all been reliable and accurate. I have never owned a late model 686 with MIM parts or the lock, so I can't comment on them. All the Dan Wessons I have owned have been large frame guns (.44 Magnum and .445 Super Magnum), still have a .44 Mag DW. All were early DWs made in Monson, Mass. Dan Wesson went through several ownership changes over the years, and it is generally held amongst those knowledgeable in things Dan Wesson that the "Monson" guns are superior to the later guns made in different locations. I have never had one problem with a Dan Wesson, which is far more robust than an "equivalent" S&W (with a significant weight difference, as well). They have all exhibited exceptional accuracy. Now, when it comes to the "small frame" DWs, I don't have any practical experience, never having owned one. I can tell you that the small frame DWs came in at least three major variations, the earliest being the Model 12 (IIRC), then the 14, with the 15 being the last variation (the 15 was in production at Monson, then at the later locations). I recall that there were significant improvements to the 15 over the earlier models, but don't really remember them in detail, except that they reduced (but did not eliminate) the "ugly" factor, which was one of the most outstanding features of the early models (remember that song about being whacked by "the ugly stick?" Those early DWs are the embodiment of "the ugly stick"). I have enjoyed my DWs, but I would recommend that, unless you really study up on them, that you get a 686 (you should also do a lot of research to find the one that suits you, anyway). Parts are much more readily obtained for a S&W and almost all gunsmiths are knowledgeable about S&W revolvers, should it ever need repair, but parts for DWs can be difficult to locate, and finding a gunsmith qualified on them is also difficult. Usually, the DWs do not have quite as smooth an action as a S&W, athough they are capable of stellar accuracy, partly due to their tensioned barrel. The interchangeable barrel feature is nice, but, usually, one finds the barrel he likes best with the gun, and it stays on it most of the time. One other thing, resale is typically much easier, more rapid, and more lucrative with an S&W, as there is a larger market for them.

Oh, regarding not seeing a lot of DWs in police holsters - most departments issued weapons bought by the municipality, county or state, and those departments that authorized (or required) private purchase typically restricted the officer's choice to certain models of S&W, Colt or, in some instances, Ruger. DW was a small firm, and didn't have the funds to pursue approval with every individual agency across the country, especially when that approval was, typically, at the whim of the Chief, Sherrif, or whoever was in charge at the time. I have never heard of DWs breaking, unless they were fired repeatedly with hot loads that would blow a S&W to smithereens just from thinking about firing it. They are extremely strong guns, and their mechanisms are very robust. When long range pistol silhouette shooting was all the rage, Dan Wessons in .44 Mag and .445 Super Mag ruled that roost, because they were extremely accurate, and because they could regularly digest loads that were far too stout for other revolvers. I have no qualms about using mine in a defensive capacity, especially regarding reliability, the only drawback is that it is one heavy machine, far heavier than a Model 29, and not a lot of fun to lug around all day, and even more difficult to conceal. That is information from somebody who owns and loves S&Ws, and who also actually owns and shoots a DW (and who has owned several others, as well), rather than developing an opinion from hearsay, supposition and/or internet rumor. That being said, I recommend the 686 as your best choice.
 
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The experiences I had & saw were .357s, never personally run across any DWs in the bigger frames.
The one that would not return the trigger reliably was a snub, the one that couldn't make it through the academy with .38 loads was a four-incher. That gal had to give up on it & use a Smith. :)
Machinegun Marvin shot longer-barreled .357s.

In my state, there was a fair degree of latitude in private purchase options, the DWs just never had much exposure for LE here.

Denis
 
Thank you to all for the great info. It looks like I will look for a pre lock 686. If anyone else has there opinion, please feel to voice your opinions. There is a shop in the area that has a few older S&W revolvers. Dave
 
If the price is right buy the DW pistol pack. I've owned one since the 70's, well built guns with very good triggers, the 686's can be found everywhere. Plenty of experts whom haven't even owned one.
 
The pistol pak is only a good deal for those who plan to switch barrel lengths around. If you don't, money wasted on excess iron that just sits.
Sounds like a good idea, but in actual practice, not so much. And there's the re-sighting issue if you do.
Parts, service, and re-sale are also valid issues that 310 points out. :)
Denis
 
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