Which S&W to Buy? Please HELP

The first guns we shot were .22's and Terri and I both agreed that it didn't feel like there was anything in there.

When we went to the .357 shooting .38's Terri was having MUCH more fun. As far as I'm concerned, I shoot clay targets with a 12 ga. O/U and am pretty comfortable with the .357's, 22's or .38's so I'm indifferent.

My #1 agenda item however is getting something that Terri really likes to look at and really enjoys firing. She doesn't want something too small or light and she doesn't want something that's so heavy that she can't focus on the shot because she's too busy trying to hold it level (I feel like I'm dating Goldilocks!).

I would like to get something in stainless because I like the look. I think this is another reason we were looking at the .357's as we weren't sure there were 4" and 6" versions of the .38 in Stainless in the S&W line.

I've already had shooting lessons and I've hired an instructor to teach Terri the basics of safety, handling and shooting. But we're still left with all these questions about what to buy.

The Gun Show is coming to Columbus, Ohio (our hometown) in a few weeks and we're looking forward to going there.
 
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I only do paper punching and plinking myself,and while I have a few guns chambered in 357(primarily because I like the look of guns with the magnum barrel lug and extra durable construction),I have never fired a 357 round in any of them.I mostly use .38 wadcutters in them-most frequently I use my .22 revolvers.I would consider buying one .22 revolver and one .38/357 revolver and take turns with them,unless you feel the need to shoot the same caliber.
 
Every thing I would say has pretty much been covered already, so I will just say I give a big push to the 686 for both of you. I know I love mine.
 
OK, if you want stainless, adjustable sights for target shooting, and 4" and 6" barrels, you probably want a 686. This gun also shoots the .357. I believe all the new versions of this gun are the 686+, which gives you 7 shots.

And if Terri's instructor recommends a .22 to really learn how to shoot (and I am pretty sure that he will), the Model 617 is .22 caliber, is stainless, has adjustable sights, comes in either 4 or 6 inch barrels, and is very close in size and heft to the 686.

kas
 
K-38s

Look for used Model 14 (6" bbl) .38 Special for you, due to the lack of an ejector rod shroud under the barrel like the magnums have, it won't be as muzzle heavy and it may be satisfactory for her too.
Model14WTWH.jpg

The first gun has S&W target grips which may be too large for you guys.
Below is the same gun with S&W magna grips.
Mdl14-2.jpg

There are a multitude of after market grips that will satisfy all but the most picky shooter available at reasonable prices.
One can also add a grip adapter to the magna grips and change the feel completely.

If she still wants a 4 incher, look for a used Model 15 (4"bbl) .38 for her.
Bullseye target shooters have been using K-38's for generations with great success.

Have fun and good shooting.:)
 
What he said...

I like a 19 or 66 for target shooting and casual, mostly .38 Special, not shooting the .357 much. I prefer the lighter barrel. Some prefer a heavier barrel, then a 686 or 586. I notice the barrel weight more on the 6" full underlug 686/586than on a 4". The .357 will have more muzzle jump and a bit more kick on the lighter model 19 or 66, .38's you may not notice too much. Matter of how it balances and shooter taste...


So you want two .357's, a 4" and a 6", to shoot at the range mostly with .38's, and you both have smaller hands.

If it were me, I would consider the K frame model 19/66 or L frame 586/686. The grip frame is the same size on both the K and L frame revolvers, and would probably fit your hands better than the larger N frame.

I am a great fan of the K frame in .22, .32, and .38 caliber, and own several. However, if you plan to shoot many .357's, I would suggest the L frames. They are "beefier", can take as many .357's as you want to put thru them, and the extra weight of the lugged barrel helps with the recoil.

Oh, and I would look for the older, pre-lock revolvers. They can be found in very good to excellent condition, usually cheaper than the current versions.
 
From what you have said here I would opt for a model 67, .38 caliber. It's still available new from S&W and the ammo is less expensive than .357. (And you, as a new user, don't have to navigate the used gun market.) The 67 has adjustable sights, which the 64 does not (but is basically the same revolver). The 4" barrel has wonderful balance and minimal recoil with target ammo. If you ever decide you want it for home protection you can load it with +P ammo and you will be close to .357 performance. If you really feel the need for a slightly heavier gun then you will have to opt for the L-frame 686 or try to find a used model 66 (.357 caliber). It has a slightly heavier barrel than the 67 but can certainly be loaded with .38s exclusively for the range. Stick to your guns about what you really need (pun intended).

The .357 is not a requirement. It's just what the salesman have been pushing us towards.

To be clear, we will never carry/conceal either of these pieces, they are not for home protection and they will never be used for hunting game of any kind. These guns are for my girlfriend and I to go to the indoor range and shoot paper targets. And when we're done shooting, we'll clean 'em and put 'em right back in our locker at the range.

Given the price and recoil of the .357 round, we would be using .38's all of the time. Again - Terri like the feel and weight of the .357 so that's the direction we've been looking. But this has been a fear of mine all along - are the salespeople showing us what they have or are they showing us what we really should be looking at? Since we're planning on shooting .38 rounds I asked why we wouldn't just want to buy a .38 revolver and I was told that the .357 revolvers are stronger, last longer and are better suited for the kind of target shooting we want to do.

And again - thank you to all for your help. I've been to two other boards, talked to multiple vendors and even tried to call S&W directly and this forum is by far the best resource I've found.

Andy.
 
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OK, if you want stainless, adjustable sights for target shooting, and 4" and 6" barrels, you probably want a 686. This gun also shoots the .357.


yep, what he said. My 686s are my favorite range guns. Accurate and a pleasure to shoot, even with magnum loads. I too prefer stainless guns and the full lugs help tame recoil. If they feel good in your hand, they will shoot well for you.
 
Well I always liked the Model 65 you can tell by my screen name. I love the stainless steel 3" with wood handles but the did make it in 4" which is less sot after and there for cheeper + they are some of the cheeper one to start off with.

Cheers
 
Remember the salesman's goal is to make a sale. I am always skeptical when someone tells me I "need" the more expensive one...

There are 38 Spc revolvers from the 1920s and 30s that are still safe to shoot, so the design is durable enough. It is up to you, but it looks like an adjustable sighted 38 Special with a 4" barrel will do it for you. There is lots of good advice above about blue vs stainless, new vs used, and pre-lock vs post-lock. Good luck and happy shooting!
 
I would like to get something in stainless because I like the look. I think this is another reason we were looking at the .357's as we weren't sure there were 4" and 6" versions of the .38 in Stainless in the S&W line.

I've already had shooting lessons and I've hired an instructor to teach Terri the basics of safety, handling and shooting. But we're still left with all these questions about what to buy.

S&W stainless steel revolvers, .38 special.....................

model 64, K frame, 4" tapered or heavy barrel, round or square butt grip .

model 67, K frame, 4' barrel, square butt grip, adjustable rear sight.

S&W stainless steel revolvers, .357 magnum.....................

model 65, K frame, 4" heavy barrel, round or square butt grip.

model 66, K frame, 4" or 6" barrel, round or square butt grip.

all of the models with 4" barrels weigh approximately 35 ozs. the 6" barrels weigh 39.
ozs.

stainless steel is much easier to maintain than a blued steel gun.

used guns, in good condition, of these models can be found on "gunbroker.com" and also "j&g sales.com"

best of luck finding the revolvers that are just right for the both of you.

happy shooting when you get your S&W revolvers.
 
L frame 686 in 3.5 in barrel with hogue grips and green front sight is a NICE rig, my buddy has one.
 
We have spoken with three different vendors and they (a) don't seem to know much about the differences between the various S&W .357's and (b) are far more interested in selling us what they have in stock and far less interested in helping us figure out which guns are right for us.

.....the vendors really aren't much help.

In terms of talking to the salesman, I'm not inclined to do that again. I had one guy go on and on for 15 minutes about the importance of camfering in the cylindar while another guy told us it was completely irrelevant. Every salesperson we talk to seems to contradict the previous one. One guy tells us that the 686 is their "entry level" .357 and the custom line is where we should be looking and the next guy tells us the 686 is a fantastic gun and anything else would be too much.......

Welcome to the "Modern Gun Shop"! Gun shops aint like they used to be in the good ol' days and I'm only 33. Every gun shop around my area is only interested in selling you a semi auto 20rd "tacti-cool" pistol with a laser and a flash light stuck to it or whatever else they have in stock, most of the people working in them know nothing nor do they care about good ol' wheel guns. I should have been born in the 50's!

I think the 4" 686 L frame is a great all purpose weapon and if your looking for a great target/home defense weapon look no further. It can be had in 6" as well. Grips come and go easily, they're are many choices out there. Try Discount Guns for Sale - Buds Gun Shop for new and used guns.
 
Bud's has a Model 19 for $449.00 I believe. 6" barrel. I thought about it but I just purchased one of the Model 10 police trade in guns they had. Good luck in your quest! Bob
 
Lots of sound advice for you to sort through. Based on your responses you just can't go wrong with a 686...it will shoot anything from tame .38 wad cutters to .38 to .38+P to .38+P+ and on to all the varieties of .357 so you don't get bored! I can't think of another gun that will shoot that kind of variety.

As to lock vs. pre-lock...oh, man...that topic is a real can of worms!!:rolleyes: It is really just a personal preference thing based on tradition...and maybe just a little politics! (Mine are all pre-lock). OK guys...don't come after me about the hole!:eek:

But what do I know...I ride Honda's!
 
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Lot's of great, well informed advice here. I'd add this:

Since you say "we want guns that can be handed down, enjoyed and treasured by future generations in our family. We want pistols of the highest quality materials, design and construction." then I'd suggest you look at the Performance Center editions, including the M&P R8 and TRR 8. The prices are considerably higher than the standard editions, but they are of fantastic quality, they are as close to hand-made as you can get these days in a production gun, with no MIM pieces, and the added quality is in areas that are important -- good balance, hand forged parts, tuned barrels, custom triggers, excellent quality sights, custom grips and so forth. I'd go with stainless for durability and longevity, though I am coming to appreciate more the scandium alloy frames (I now have 2 revolvers and a 1911), so maybe buy one of each.

Once you've settled on the "level" of quality, then buy the ones that best fit your hands.
 
You are by now suffering from too much information.

Buy a 4" 686 and a 6" 686 and you're done. Either gun has adjustable sights, enough weight to manage recoil, and a stainless finish. Shoot lots and lots of .38 specials. When you both shoot well, manage the recoil and don't flinch, move up to .38 special +p (higher pressure round). If you ever want to, and you may not, you both can move up to the .357, and you're still using the same guns. Don't even worry about the lock. It hurts nothing, but it infuriates some people; ignore it. Not an issue.

Most of the shooters on this forum who own one or both of these guns love them, and have no interest in ever trading them. If you become the exception, and ever do want to trade or sell these guns, you will be happy with the retained value, whether it is over 5, 10 or 20 years.

Any range in America, and any NRA instructor will be familiar with these fine S&W revolvers, and can provide excellent instruction.

Stop analyzing and just buy them. You're done!
 
I think my girlfriend has settled on the 686 .357 SSR and I'm going to get the 686+ with the 7" spout. The gun show comes to town next weekend and we're excited to look there. If we don't find anything we'll order from the local range as they offered us a good deal if we buy two.

Thanks to everyone for all their help. I'll post a pic of our new S&W's as soon as we get them.

Andy.
 
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