which scotchbrite color for stainless Rugers and Smiths?

[Racer X]

I know there is a specific color to aproximate the finish on a Smith, but which color gives a close finish to Ruger? I'm sure someone here knows.

And is Smith the white or light grey? I have a 5906 and 6906 needing some shine reduction on their slides.

 

[ghawke]

I used Scotchbrite 37448, which is gray. I got it at a Napa store. It was recommended to me by Lee Jarrett.
Don't know about your other question.

 

[Racer X]

Thanks. Fortunately, I have an essentially unfired Ruger KP-95DC to match the Ruger satin stainless look to.

 

[Green Frog]

The color is important, but the pressure and direction with which the pad is applied makes a difference too. I like grey for my Smiths but my lone stainless Ruger has fortunately never required a touch up (so far!)
Froggie

 

[MB3845]

Grey has worked well for me on my Rugers.

 

[junglefighter]

Wal Mart in the nail polish aisle has a 4 sided eraser looking nail buffer that has 4 different grits that work for me if I scratch a stainless part. It takes the light scratch off without leavening a mark. Do not press hard, go slow.

 

[Racer X]

I got 3 of the light, 3 of the white, and 3 of the brick red to clean up some rusty saws and axe heads.

I can see that the Ruger Mark pistols are machine finished while the receivers and barrels are done on a lathe, so the "grain" is actually circular. The Smiths are linear, and only need some holster shine massaged away.

 

[Racer X]

I got 3 of the light grey, 3 of the white, and 3 of the brick red to clean up some rusty saws and axe heads.

I can see that the Ruger Mark pistols are machine finished while the receivers and barrels are on a lathe, so the "grain" is actually circular. The Smiths are linear, and only need some holster shine massaged away.

 

[chief38]

I have restored & refinished a bunch of S&W Stainless revolver's over the years (mostly for friends) and I start out by sanding them with progressively higher grit papers - that gets the sins out. Be VERY careful not to sand out or dull anything like the logo, lettering, etc!!! After I get the finish to where I am happy I do finish with the gray scotch-brite pads in one direction (muzzle to back strap). The restorations look pretty much like factory when done - some even better! I prefer the satin finish (factory like) as it will stand up better over time. A mirror polished gun will not stay that way long of carried, shot or handled often.

I would highly suggest taking the entire revolver apart and working on it without the internal parts or cylinder on the frame. This gets you much better access to the frame and when all done, I'd make sure there is absolutely no grit and dust anywhere. Clean, lightly lubricate and reassemble and you are back in action. Avoid sanding any fitted action parts!

NOTE: If not familiar with complete disassembly, either find someone to assist or learn how to do so prior to refinishing. You don't want to ruin a freshly refinished revolver!