The K frame trigger pull is so sweet, whereas the L and N frame are very hard for me to pull. Even J frames are easier tp pull then L frames. Huh? Every sample of each frame type I've tried has confirmed my conclusions. So again, why are K frame triggers so much better than the rest?
Why are k frame triggers the best?
- Thread starter circa1981
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
It's not so much the trigger as all of the other parts. All S&W revolver triggers are pretty much the same. Remember that every moving part in a revolver begins its motion when you start to move the trigger, and every moving part comes into contact with every other moving part, and all of the surfaces of these moving parts resist that motion, through friction, to an infinite amount of variation. Eventually, the friction can be mitigated, either through a trigger-job or normal wear and tear. The resulting friction, combined with the resistance of several crucial springs will vary from gun to gun. Anyway, to make a long story short: K frame triggers are no different than any other.
cmort666
Member
I don't know that they ARE better.
The triggers on my 25-2 and 29-2 are every bit as good as the trigger on my 14.
Now, if your hand is too small for the N frame, or you're not using the proper grip, you'll certainly PERCEIVE the pull as inferior.
The triggers on my 25-2 and 29-2 are every bit as good as the trigger on my 14.
Now, if your hand is too small for the N frame, or you're not using the proper grip, you'll certainly PERCEIVE the pull as inferior.
MrTrolleyguy
US Veteran
My Friend, You are talking about your subjective experience at the present time.
All that could change if you shoot a few well maintained and professionally tuned revolvers.
Have you ever had a chance to fire a performance center model 586 in a four inch barrel? I bet you'd enjoy it immensely.
So much depends on the gun being broken in and properly tuned for the type of shooting you'll be doing. If you have a revolver that you had high hopes for but wish it had a smoother action or a lighter single action pull why not take it to a good gunsmith or send it back to the mother ship. A gunsmith might charge you about $125.00. However when you get your gun back it will be a different weapon. JMHO
All that could change if you shoot a few well maintained and professionally tuned revolvers.
Have you ever had a chance to fire a performance center model 586 in a four inch barrel? I bet you'd enjoy it immensely.
So much depends on the gun being broken in and properly tuned for the type of shooting you'll be doing. If you have a revolver that you had high hopes for but wish it had a smoother action or a lighter single action pull why not take it to a good gunsmith or send it back to the mother ship. A gunsmith might charge you about $125.00. However when you get your gun back it will be a different weapon. JMHO
In my experience, every S&W trigger may be created equal but that's just the beginning of the story. Years of use smooth the action and the trigger becomes more and more smooth. Action work or spring replacement often results in an improved trigger pull. On the other hand, I have a Model 14 that is lightly used and unmodified but displays the best trigger pull of any firearm I have ever owned. Go figure.
pmosley
Member
I have this 65-6 (MIM parts), non-custom, very little use overall that has an outstanding factory trigger. The fact that it is a 3" makes it that much sweeter
Last edited:
Harrison
US Veteran
I don't know that they are. I have one L frame that is equal to any of my K frames and one L frame that is smoother than my K frames. My J frames all have a heavier trigger pull by a couple of pounds than the L or K frames. I am talking about double action pull. I didn't learn to shoot a revolver single action and seldom shot that way. The only springs I have changed out on any of my revolvers is the rebound spring. I have 15# rebound springs in everything.
I don't want....
I don't want to do a trigger job on my 686 because I'd be afraid to mess it up! And yes, the K frames are sweet, but I have no complaints about either.
I don't want to do a trigger job on my 686 because I'd be afraid to mess it up! And yes, the K frames are sweet, but I have no complaints about either.
Engine49guy
Member
Triggers actually interchange from K,L and N frames so they are the same and as others have stated its the other things at work.
Grips hand size and finger length come into play as variables as well.
I have Smiths of all shapes and sizes and each has its own feel especially the 7 , 8 and 10 shots as they spin up much quicker,
In general my older N frames seem to have a nicer feel but could be they are just broken in better,
Then again I have large hands and long fingers.
Grips hand size and finger length come into play as variables as well.
I have Smiths of all shapes and sizes and each has its own feel especially the 7 , 8 and 10 shots as they spin up much quicker,
In general my older N frames seem to have a nicer feel but could be they are just broken in better,
Then again I have large hands and long fingers.
05CarbonDRZ
Member
Simple...You have not shot a pre war N frame worked over by King yet...
Can't comment on N frames much but i will say I shoot some I improved and J frames and have not really ever been overly impressed.
A really broke in K frame is my favorite.
A really broke in K frame is my favorite.
jtcarm
Member
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2011
- Messages
- 4,422
- Reaction score
- 4,317
It's all about perception.
My 24-3 is slick as they get & I have some stubby little fingers. If anything, most of the K-frames I've owned were heavier & rougher than my N-frames, except my 17-3. That includes a 19-3 that felt like it was full of gravel and was traded long ago.
I've never shot an L frame, but the lock work is the same, so I don't know why they'd be any different.
Now I could see J frames being rougher due to the coil MS. But again, I've never shot one.
My 24-3 is slick as they get & I have some stubby little fingers. If anything, most of the K-frames I've owned were heavier & rougher than my N-frames, except my 17-3. That includes a 19-3 that felt like it was full of gravel and was traded long ago.
I've never shot an L frame, but the lock work is the same, so I don't know why they'd be any different.
Now I could see J frames being rougher due to the coil MS. But again, I've never shot one.
JeepinSoldier
Member
I have three revolvers with absolutely amazing double action triggers. Two are K Frames. A Model 19-3 and a Model 65-2. The third is a N Frame 625.
Some of my other K Frame have much rougher and heavier double action triggers. The 3" 13 is nice but not great and the old Aussie police 3" Model 10 is really smooth but still feels heavy.
Some of my other K Frame have much rougher and heavier double action triggers. The 3" 13 is nice but not great and the old Aussie police 3" Model 10 is really smooth but still feels heavy.
Snapping Twig
Member
My S&W's all have excellent triggers.
Some are better than others and the ones with action jobs - professional - are off the hook!
I even did one or two myself. No stones on the lock works, just spring changes, no push-off, no reduced hammer fall.
Some are better than others and the ones with action jobs - professional - are off the hook!
I even did one or two myself. No stones on the lock works, just spring changes, no push-off, no reduced hammer fall.
snubbiefan
Member
I see/feel little difference whatsoever between my K and L frames.....same trigger and hammer spring. There is a little something called a "strain-screw" that can have a lot to do with it as well as improved springs to fix what one thinks may be broken. The K frame would naturally want a heavier hammer spring to insure positive rim-fire strikes, but it's a 15-minute job to alter that with either a strain-screw adjustment or a hammer spring change.
AveragEd
Member
Having never noticed much difference between my various Smith & Wesson revolvers' triggers, I just dry-fired three Ks, three Ls and three Ns - they all felt so close to the same that I now know why I never noticed any difference. The eight guns with target triggers seemed to have a lighter pull than the one with a combat-width trigger (a 2-1/2" Model 66) but I'm sure that the narrower surface makes the pull seem a little heavier.
Ed
Ed
loeman
Member
Ok, I know this is very subjective, but it certainly is perceived! I have and shoot, Improved I, J, K, L and N frames and I love my K frame triggers, they are all sweet but the "best" trigger IMO is on a Md 681 L frame. I bought it used but I'm pretty sure it has never had any trigger work.
That being said, in another thread, Snubbiefan suspected that since most of the 681s were made for LEOs that maybe S&W did a little "extra" to the 681s to help keep those orders comin' in.
That being said, in another thread, Snubbiefan suspected that since most of the 681s were made for LEOs that maybe S&W did a little "extra" to the 681s to help keep those orders comin' in.
Last edited:
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
