Why no lube on sears?

[Racer X]

I'm certainly not new to firearms, but I don't have the decades of daily experience that quite a few here have.

On my Ruger Mark .22 target pistols, whenever I have the upper off, I hose everything down with brake cleaner, and when it has flashed off, I spray a quick burst of Liquid Wrench dry lube on the internals. I've never had any issues. And since these are target pistols only loaded on the firing bench, or at the range firing line, it has never been cause for thought.

But since I am getting ready to carry a pistol daily (had a CCW since about '95) I am wondering is a dot from a toothpick of nickel based anti-sieze Ok? I know a number of shooters, one an ex Navy SWCC, that do this on the AR platform.

Any insights are gladly listened to.

 

[stansdds]

I don't apply any sort of grease to sears or hammers, but I do like a very thin film of oil, right now I am using Corrosion X, on internal parts not just for lubrication, but for corrosion protection. By thin film I do mean thin, as in apply the oil, then wipe to remove most of it, leaving just a thin film.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I use RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube on sears if I happen to have a gun apart, but I strongly recommend measuring trigger pull and testing all safety features before use, especially on a 1911. The trigger pull will probably improve, and a marginal trigger job may be unsafe after such application. Perhaps less true these days since IPSC improved the quality and safety of 1911 trigger jobs.

 

[diyj98]

If it's metal, I lube it with something. I've always wiped sears with a light coat of oil.

 

[armorer951]

As others have said, a light coat of light weight gun oil on moving parts is fine. The oil will help with lubricity and help to prevent oxidation.

One other aspect of lubrication of carry firearms is careful consideration of the environment the gun will be exposed to. If you live in an area where outdoor temperatures vary considerably, and the firearm will be exposed to extreme cold, be sure to adapt your cleaning and lubrication regimen to accommodate these temps. Lubricants and greases have different viscosities, and choosing the right lubricant for use during the winter months is critical, especially when dealing with a carry firearm.

Brake cleaner comment: Use caution when using aerosols like Gun Scrubber and brake cleaner too. These compounds strip the lubricants off the metal surfaces, which exposes them to the elements. Read the labels on these products and follow the label directions. Wear rubber gloves to prevent skin contact, and protect your eyes.

 

[JohnHL]

Good question, Racer X!

Since you are asking about a CARRY gun, I would advise against any lube other than an almost non-existent film of oil on the action pieces.

Carry guns can pick up a lot of dust and dirt and anything even slightly sticky will hold that dirt.

If a small piece of something stuck to the sear surfaces, reliability could very well be compromised at the worst possible moment.

A target gun is one thing, the gun you may suddenly need to protect life is a whole 'nother story.

John

 

[robertrwalsh]

I am also a fan of the "extremely light coat of oil" school on carry gun internals. You want as close to 100% reliability as it is possible to get with zero surprises. I believe that is the best way to achieve that goal.

 

[ggibson511960]

The contact pressure is so high on a tiny single action sear surface that oil or grease makes no difference in pull weight or quality unless the the pull engagement length is really long and sloppy, as in a wobbly safe action striker fired gun or a double action sear surface. Grit or debris that the oil picks up can partially block sear engagement, giving you an impromptu trigger lightening job. That said a thin film of light vis machine oil is always a good thing for corrodible metal. Anti-seize compounds are a no go. They are sticky and stink from their sulfur based compounds.

 

[chief38]

This is how I do it.......

1) Clean gun with your favorite solvent.
2) Wipe off solvent and then blow parts off with air compressor.
3) Wipe parts down with a cotton patch and a small amount of Rig #2 Gun Oil (now discontinued) or Breakfree CLP
4) Lightly wipe off excess oil with a dry patch to leave just a light film behind.

NOTE: Personally I do not use grease on any gun that I carry. Grease attracts dirt, debris and unburnt powder residue. Exception - my Browning Superposed O/U shotgun gets a little Rig +P Grease on the hinges.

 

[Racer X]

so it sounds like my dry lube spray is fine if any gets on the sear/hammer interface.

It doesn't collect debris or build up gunk in my rimfires like an oil would, so it should be fine in a concealed pistol as well, or on my AR triggers.

Most of my pistols are all stainless, or stainless with aluminum frames, so stripping off any lube with the brake cleaner isn't a concern. I use an environmentally friendly brake cleaner that is mostly ethanol, and I usually spray outside my garage door.

any more info, keep it coming. Not just for me, but for anyone else in the future looking for the same answers.

 

[wagwan]

I use a very small amount of dry molybdenum disulphide lube on sears. The carrier dries off just leaving the moly behind. Very slick, doesn't collect dust / lint and works at all temperatures.

 

[OLDSTER]

Rugers ( I own 4 ) are very forgiving and are virtual "garbage eaters"; but can still skip a beat if too much crud is collected from oil or grease accumulations. What I've learned to do if I field strip to clean is "hose" them down, like you do; but before reassembly, I simply put a tiny drop of Rem-Oil from a needle applicator in the hammer bearing/bushing, disconnector bar at the trigger, and recoil spring-that's it. .