Wolff spring change

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Hello all this is my first post I've lurked awhile. So I replaced the hammer spring and trigger return spring in both my 6904 and the wife's 3953. I used the 17 pound hammer spring and 2.5 and 3.5 trigger return springs. I honestly can't tell much difference in either pistol. I haven't put a trigger pull gauge on them but by feel it feels just barely lighter. I did notice the wolf hammer springs were a little longer but research led me to believe this is common due to the original springs taking a set. So my question is will the trigger get lighter as these new springs eventually take a set? Or is there really not that much to be gained in a few pounds of difference? I'll be stripping them back down soon to do a little polish work I'll see if they have taken a set at all yet.
Thanks and great forum btw.
 
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With good springs, there is no magic time they "take a set." They are long when installed, and shorten with cycling. If you were to take them out and measure them every 1000 rounds and chart the length, you could see them gradually shorten. Eventually they need replacing. Lighter than stock springs tend to become too light sooner, as you would expect.
 
FWIW, the drawbar plunger spring (what's called the trigger return spring by Wolff) has to properly tension the drawbar so its tail is lifted up underneath the hammer's DA notches. The drawbar's tail notches must firmly engage the hammer's "pickup" notch, and then the "throw" notch, in order to provide for a full force hammer fall in DA.

Reducing the power of the spring may risk the drawbar tail not being able to firmly and briskly engage the hammer notches. If the drawbar "drops" the hammer prematurely it's called Skips-DA, and the symptom is a light-strike.

I've never known of a factory drawbar plunger spring to wear out. I'd rather have it strong enough to maximize helping keep the drawbar functioning even if the gun becomes dirty or suddenly contaminated (dropped in water, dirt, sand, etc).

I've experimented with reduced power drawbar plunger springs, and have not been able to notice a significant "improvement" in trigger pull. I did, however, experience a Skips-DA condition after a while. (In one gun, and it wasn't worn hammer or drawbar notches, either, as replacing the spring immediately resolved it.)

Notice on the Wolff website that they offer a cautionary warning about their reduced power trigger return (drawbar plunger) springs: WARNING: Springs are for competition use only - NOT for duty use.

It might be prudent to consider substituting the word "defensive" for "duty" in their warning, if you plan to actually depend upon the guns as dedicated defensive weapons. If they're just going to be "range" guns, then any reduction in their ability to function normally may not be as much of a concern.

The reduced power mainsprings are longer than the factory stock springs, but I've been told by the good folks at Wolff that it's because of the way they design and make their springs (coil wire gauge, etc). Also, they don't "close" the ends of their coils, flattening and grinding them, in the same manner as the factory specifies for their mainsprings.

While I've previously used the reduced power mainsprings without any problem, I've gone back to using the stock factory mainsprings. They're heavier than reduced power springs, yes, but they're also intended to help keep powering the hammer to ignite rounds under less-than-optimal conditions that may occur (hard primers, dirty gun, etc).

I've replaced a few factory mainsprings in 3rd gen's that were 20-25+ years old, but that was because they were really nasty in appearance (one looked like it had been "painted" black?!?), or were looking a little corroded. I haven't yet observed a significant shortening in length, or a noticeable reduction in strength, of such older factory springs, though.

My own 3rd gen's, going back to the late 90's and which have been well used on the range, have factory springs in them. My CS45 and original 4513TSW, both produced at the end of the 90's, have their original factory mainsprings (and drawbar plunger springs) in them, although I've used them hard enough to have replaced many recoil springs.

Just my thoughts.
 
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If it goes bang when you pull the trigger, don't worry about it.
 
Thanks that is something to thing about with the draw bar. Since I didn't notice any difference in the trigger by going to the lighter draw bar spring I may take it back to close to stock or stock. I'll probably leave the hammer spring as is since I've yet to experience any light primer strike issues. But if I do I definitely will go up in power. Thanks guys.
 
Ledbeter36 Welcome to the forum from Canada. Nice to have you with us.
 
It's important to remember that seating the rear of the plunger in the small notch located in the front of the drawbar head is critical to proper functioning of the drawbar. It's easy to get distracted and miss seeing the plunger's "ball" slip out of the notch during frame assembly.

Just a thought.
 
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