Wolff spring in 625

[Big Pete10]

I have a new 625JM. I installed a new Wolff reduced power spring in it and it had a very light hammer, much lighter than the hammer on my 686 with the same spring. No way it will shoot, even with Federal primers only 3 of 6 times.

What am I missing?

Also, is there any thing special I should know about installing a C&S long firing pin?

Thanks,

 

[adweisbe]

Try a different strain screw? Maybe the one you had in the gun was a tad short or was shortened at some point?

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

You can buy a 8-32 x 1/2" allen set screw & put some teflon tape on the back end of the screw so it won't unthread under recoil, Then while at the range dial the tention up with an allen wrench till you get 100% ignition..
Any hardware store will have them available & cheap too..
Of Course you may have to remove the grips & those JM Hogues fit pretty tight..
I have a set of those grips for K/L Frame Square Butt & there's a hole in the front side of the grips to allow access to the strain screw while there attached..
I like this setup & with grips that cover the strain screw you can't even see it, Plus you can store the factory screw unmodified..
It does sound like the factory strain scew was probobly filed down at one time..
The Wolff Mainsprings have a nice feel to them BTW..
I have a "Bang Inc." Jerry Miculek spring kit in my stash with an extended tang at the rear + 15lb extra long return spring for the trigger return slide & prefer the feel of the Wolff spring over the JM kit..
But being you have the 625JM you might wanna try one of those in it..
I'd run up to the hardware store & get yourself a couple of the allen screws & some teflon tape or paint some fingernail polish on the rear threaded area of the screw & let it dry before installing..
Also installing the C&S pin is simple on the newer guns after the sideplate is removed, You just pull the small pin towards the top & the firing pin & spring are released, This also gives you a chance to take a q-tip with hoppes to the channel while it's apart to clean up any carbon that's gotten in there..
Good Luck!!
Gary/Hk

 

[imashooter2]

In mine, the strain screw set into the recess of the "Power Rib." I had to add a primer cup to the end of the screw to get enough tension to achieve a 7 pound DA pull (with a 14 pound rebound spring). In this configuration it is 100% with Federal primers, but 60-70% tops with Winchester and worse with CCI.

The primary thing to know about installing the C&S pins is that they will break in use. Usually at the worst possible moment. Have a spare and the tools to change it in your range bag.

 

[Big Pete10]

Spring in 625

Thanks for the info. I should be able to handle it. I do wish S&W had left well enough alone. Pin on the hammer works a lot better.

 

[tomcatt51]

Thanks for the info. I should be able to handle it. I do wish S&W had left well enough alone. Pin on the hammer works a lot better.

This has been about beat to death. The FMFP's work fine if you have one that measures .492" or longer (oal). The .485ish" pins can be problematic. If you have a short one, better firing pins are available here: Smith and Wesson revolver parts : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

 

[Wayne M]

Do you have a game gun or a fighting gun? You may want a fighting gun to fire the hardest primer you can find.