Reduced power hammer springs no good in NEW S&Ws?

I've personally settled on the 16# return springs from Wolff. It's just a bit lighter without sacrificing a solid return. Bought 2 ten packs as I know how those puppies like to fly out and dissolve into the garage floor lol.

Also bulk bought the Wolff reduced power and standard power springs just to have and not need to wait around once I get my "next" S&W. I've come to terms that this addiction isn't going anywhere :D With the helpful tip on new set screws, here's hoping that future-proofs me for a while. Thanks again to all for the tips!

If you use the set screws, make sure you use blue 242 (medum strength) or purple 222 (low strength) Loctite on them. This makes them adjustable, but stay where you put them. Without it, the screws will gradually walk out as the mainspring flexes. Use enough Loctite to coat the male and female threads, then mop up any excess with a Q tip or rag. The screws with a patch on them are a one time deal, and any adjustments quickly rub off the patch. I drill an access hole in the grips to quickly make any tweaks needed.
 
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There once was a time when I dabbled with reduced power rebound slide springs. The previous revolver armorer liked to (judiciously) use them. I tried a pack of 3 lighter-than-factory springs when I got my first Airweight. I found the lightest of them resulted in frequent failures for the trigger to recover. The medium one resulted in occasional failures to recover. This was an off-duty weapon, so any failures-to-recover were a No Go. ;) The heaviest of the reduced power springs gave me consistently reliable trigger recovery, so it got the nod.

However, fast forward to a couple months later, and the reawakening of my dusty DA revolver skills (after having gone from duty revolvers to duty pistols for several years), and having invested a lot of range hours and trigger time burning through a couple cases of ammo ...

One day I was running a fast drill and discovered my trigger finger was 'outrunning' the trigger recovery. :eek: Well, hell, that's not good.

The factory rebound slide spring promptly went back in the 642, and the trigger recovery was quick, brisk and firm ... and my finger couldn't outrun it. :) It's remained that way ever since, as have the second 642 I bought, my pair or M&P 340's and my neat little 37DAO. My other (steel) J's have always had the stock springs in them too. That was the consequence of having to drill and qualify running duty revolvers for several years,,with the emphasis being on fast and accurate DA trigger work.

That's what works for me, and I no longer have to worry about what others do with their wheelguns. :cool:
 
I was also outrunning the trigger with the lower power (13#ish) return springs. The 16#, for me, is the lightest that I can't outrun.

Also, thx for the tip on loctite. Been working on guns long enough that there's never a tube (blue) too far away.
 
Years ago, I took a "tuned" 686 (CS-1 overrun) out to the range to practice for an upcoming wintertime IDPAish match at Ft. Benning. It was below freezing early in the AM and I had many failures to fire. Later on in the day when it got into the 40's it ran fine. Minimal oil (mostly likely CLP back then), nothing odd going on in the action, it was just too lightly sprung for the conditions. After a few more tests under the same conditions that winter, it got slightly beefier springs, which didn't seem to hurt scores/times at all. That revolver doesn't get exercised near as much 20+ years later, but it is still a favorite and has the same (heavier) springs. Don't ask me specifics, those notes are well buried...
 
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A D.A. trigger pull of 7 lbs. is the absolute minimum to ignite Federal ammo/primers-----and "iffy" with any others. He (above) who noted setting the trigger pull at 8 1/2 lbs. knows whereof he speaks! It works!

Been there----done that!!

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside, it helps to have a GOOD trigger pull gauge----no bargain basement equipment allowed!
 
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That is one reason I use Wilson Combat spring kits. Their main springs don't have the rib to contend with.


^^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^^

Also strongly recommend an Apex extended firing pin. TK custom sells one also, but I've used both, and the Apex is longer.
 
My routine when I acquire a new (to me) S&W is to crack it open, clean, lube and, if warranted, ditch the hammer and return springs and swap in a new Wolff reduced power hammer spring and a 16# return spring.

Thanks for any input!

That is fine for Range Guns but I would not recommend it on Carry or Home Defense revolvers. I have know too many cops
having revolver failures when they should be shooting Bad Guys/gals. Even Wyatt Earp had light strikes when he needed to shoot back on March 18, 1882. Fortunately the assassin run off but only after mortally wounding Morgan Earp.
 
That is fine for Range Guns but I would not recommend it on Carry or Home Defense revolvers. I have know too many cops
having revolver failures when they should be shooting Bad Guys/gals. Even Wyatt Earp had light strikes when he needed to shoot back on March 18, 1882. Fortunately the assassin run off but only after mortally wounding Morgan Earp.

Agreed. I wouldn't do this for any of my defense guns, just toys. I carry either a Shield Plus or an Sig P229. Both bone stock and just fine. HD gun is a Mossy 500 12ga; I'm not certain you CAN break those lol
 
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