^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Two rules for at-home gunsmithing:
1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it; and,
2. If you ignore Rule 1, at least read the directions...
This!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Two rules for at-home gunsmithing:
1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it; and,
2. If you ignore Rule 1, at least read the directions...
I've personally settled on the 16# return springs from Wolff. It's just a bit lighter without sacrificing a solid return. Bought 2 ten packs as I know how those puppies like to fly out and dissolve into the garage floor lol.
Also bulk bought the Wolff reduced power and standard power springs just to have and not need to wait around once I get my "next" S&W. I've come to terms that this addiction isn't going anywhereWith the helpful tip on new set screws, here's hoping that future-proofs me for a while. Thanks again to all for the tips!
That's one of the key points we teaches here at Bubba's Skool of Kitchun Table Gunsmithin!If it ain't broke, we'll fix it until it is.
That is one reason I use Wilson Combat spring kits. Their main springs don't have the rib to contend with.
My routine when I acquire a new (to me) S&W is to crack it open, clean, lube and, if warranted, ditch the hammer and return springs and swap in a new Wolff reduced power hammer spring and a 16# return spring.
Thanks for any input!
That is fine for Range Guns but I would not recommend it on Carry or Home Defense revolvers. I have know too many cops
having revolver failures when they should be shooting Bad Guys/gals. Even Wyatt Earp had light strikes when he needed to shoot back on March 18, 1882. Fortunately the assassin run off but only after mortally wounding Morgan Earp.