Reduced power hammer springs no good in NEW S&Ws?

[ColumbusJBR]

My routine when I acquire a new (to me) S&W is to crack it open, clean, lube and, if warranted, ditch the hammer and return springs and swap in a new Wolff reduced power hammer spring and a 16# return spring. Been working great on all my pre-lock guns.

I only own two NEW Smiths. Both 686-6 Plus, one in 5" and one in 6". On both of them I noticed after install the pull is VERY light. Probably too light, I thought. I confirmed at the range with the 6", was getting pretty regular light strikes.

I'm confused because with the same parts all my pre-locks work great, I've only noticed this on the new ones, and have since switched back to factory springs. Is this a known issue, or am I crazy / just have bad luck with the new ones? I understand this is really a nitpick; the trigger pull is "fine" on them from the factory. I just can never help myself and always wanna tinker.

Thanks for any input!

 

[StrawHat]

Send those factory springs my way, please. I can use them.

Kevin

 

[series guy]

Replace the strain screw with an Allen set screw from McMaster. Set the D/A trigger pull to 8 1/2 pounds and you will be very happy. The rib in the reduced power spring causes the strain screw to be too short on round butt guns.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

Replace the strain screw with an Allen set screw from McMaster. Set the D/A trigger pull to 8 1/2 pounds and you will be very happy. The rib in the reduced power spring causes the strain screw to be too short on round butt guns.

That is incredibly helpful. Thank you!

 

[rct269]

As perhaps an aside---and born of ignorance when it comes to ANY S&W revolver from the mid 1950's onward, let me suggest the use of Jerry Miculek's spring kits for an improved D.A. trigger pull---not only improved, but set wherever you choose----and quickly altered if/when you change your mind at the maximum (if any) cost of a new strain screw.

I was amazed, even dumbfounded at the improvement to be had with my father-law's beater M&P (bought new in 1920, and carried daily in the hip pocket of his overalls for a mere 60+ years).

I don't understand all I know about it---except that IT WORKS!!

Ralph Tremaine

A note of caution: FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!! I didn't bother with that minor detail the first time around. I mean what possible need is there for me to need instructions to swap out a couple of springs? I got the answer to that question in short order!!

 

[Lou_the_welder]

If it's the ribbed mainspring- the standard strain screw may or may not work. You can buy a square butt strain screw and shave it down as necessary. You can see how much longer they are. Grind em down bit by bit - then tighten the screw all the way down like a standard strain screw.

 

[Beju]

Replace the strain screw with an Allen set screw from McMaster. Set the D/A trigger pull to 8 1/2 pounds and you will be very happy. The rib in the reduced power spring causes the strain screw to be too short on round butt guns.

To add to this, I tried the Wolff extended strain screw, which was enough to get my 686 to reliably ignite most domestic primers, but not enough to reliably ignite hard Servicios Aventuras primers in double action. And that's with an Apex extended firing pin as well.

The Wolff extended strain screw's body measured at 9.7 mm vs the stock 8.4 mm. I suspect that another mm of strain screw would probably do it, but I'll probably resort to a set screw with blue loctite.

If it were for serious defensive use, I'd just go back to the stock mainspring so that I woudn't have to worry about ammo selection. A Wolff 15 lb rebound spring and the stock mainspring has my 686's DA pull at 9.65 lbs.

 

[Doug M.]

Note that the newer revolvers from S&W have shorter and sometimes inadequate firing pins as part of being "drop safe" according to the standards of certain states. I am about as mechanical as a rock, but it would not surprise me if the combination of a lighter string set with that firing pin will present problems on occasion.

 

[Shark Bait]

That is one reason I use Wilson Combat spring kits. Their main springs don't have the rib to contend with.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

I just picked up a few 8-32 set screws from the hardware store. I'll mess with it tomorrow and report back. Got a lot of football and baseball to watch now.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[series guy]

McMaster number 95235A507 has Loctite pre applied. A package of 10 is only $6.00

 

[toad67]

You could also try a used primer over the end of the strain screw, to add some length, if you reload.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Send those factory springs my way, please. I can use them.

Kevin

All my Smiths have their original innards and they work fine.......Old to new.

 

[LVSteve]

Strikes me that the routine does not work on modern Smiths. I don't see this as a problem.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

I just picked up a few 8-32 set screws from the hardware store. I'll mess with it tomorrow and report back. Got a lot of football and baseball to watch now.

Thanks for the advice!

Quick update: the 8-32 x 1/2" set screws worked brilliantly. I'm gonna buy a pack of them to keep on hand w/ my other small parts in the Ol' S&W bin. Thank you for the advice! I love this forum.

 

[tom2]

I have been putting the next power below factory trigger return springs in Smith revolvers in the past. The lighter ones do not return the trigger very fast in DA mode for me. I tried some ribbed mainsprings once and discarded them for factory before long. I found some factory springs that gave a better pull by swapping them around. If you use one, make sure there is no push-off in SA mode! I had a Wolff coil mainspring in a 640 because the pull seemed kinda heavy. This helped but the last time I took it to a range I started getting light strikes and immediately put the factory mainspring back in it. None of my guns are strictly just target or hunting so they need to work with no doubts.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

I've personally settled on the 16# return springs from Wolff. It's just a bit lighter without sacrificing a solid return. Bought 2 ten packs as I know how those puppies like to fly out and dissolve into the garage floor lol.

Also bulk bought the Wolff reduced power and standard power springs just to have and not need to wait around once I get my "next" S&W. I've come to terms that this addiction isn't going anywhere With the helpful tip on new set screws, here's hoping that future-proofs me for a while. Thanks again to all for the tips!

 

[series guy]

I usually use the 13 pound rebound springs. With a modicum of stoning on the action they work very well.

 

[chief38]

My usual tune up on S&W revolvers is to replace the rebound spring with a 11-12 pound spring - I never cut the original. I leave in the factory main spring but I do tune the strain screw to desired length. Normally I do not alter the original strain screw, I use one of the dozens that I have in stock. This way all I ever need to do to return said revolver back to stock is to replace the rebound spring and strain screw with the originals. The original is never messed with.

This procedure works quite well for me. It lightens the pull to where I like it and it is 100% reliable with good solid hits. The last thing I want is a smooth revolver that is not reliable! BTW, the original parts always are kept in the original box and labeled as such - never any confusion. Any revolver I sell (a rarity) gets put back to factory spec's before I ship it. Never want the liability of after market parts and mods!

 

[Pisgah]

Two rules for at-home gunsmithing:
1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it; and,
2. If you ignore Rule 1, at least read the directions...