Its a fair question, but we have no idea about your gunsmithing skills, or even your general mechanical abilities.
First, take the grips off the gun
Then with a correctly sized screwdriver, remove all the sideplate screws. Either 3 or 4 depending on the vintage of your gun. There are several methods of removing the sideplate. Don't pry it up. The best way is to find a large screwdriver. Hold the gun in one hand and grip the screwdriver by the end, not the handle. Then use the handle as a hammer and sharply rap the grip frame. Like magic, the sideplate will lift itself up and out of the gun.
Now you need to unscrew the tension screw from the front of the grip frame. That releases tension on the mainspring and you can remove it and set it aside.
With that removed, you can proceed to remove the Hammer. The hammer only comes out when its partially cocked by pulling the trigger back a little, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Now comes the huge problem. Getting the rebound slide out is tricky. (about half as hard as re-installing it.) I learned a trick long ago, and I wish I remember where I heard it. The best thing to use is a clear dry cleaners bag. Work inside the clear bag! Yep. So when you somehow manage to pry the rebound slide up and out, it reaches escape velocity (the speed it takes to put a space craft into orbit), you want to somehow capture it before it orbits your gun room. There are tools made for this purpose. Brownells used to sell them.
You can make your own with a standard 1/4" or 5/16s screwdriver and a dremel tool. What you do is cut a slot in the tip so you've got the blade separated by the slot. It needs to be wide enough to pass the pin that compresses that rebound slide spring. If you don't have a dremel, you can use a hacksaw if its got a good blade. Same deal, make a slot.
Then you use your new tool to compress the rebound slide and spring and pry it upward. Extreme caution here. Its where the strong little spring comes out at you with a passion.
If you work inside a clear plastic bag, you'll capture the spring.
Now reverse the sequence. You again use the new tool to replace the new spring and compress it until it will go past the pin and drop down.
If you're that far inside the gun, you might want to consider soaking the parts in powder solvent to remove any carbon or varnish. Your inside anyway.
Now before you stop or do anything else, put both stock springs in a new envelope and mark what they are and where they came from.
The differences between the springs can be important, or nothing at all. Every gun seems different. Basically, the springs work against each other. The rebound slide spring must be strong enough to reset the trigger. Most people don't even go far enough to replace the rebound slide spring at all. They replace the main spring and test the gun. Its usually such a difference that they're happy with it. Besides, it bypasses the rebound slide mess.
