WOLFF Spring Kits
- Thread starter Muffin
- Start date
Bullitt1748
Member
I CAN SUM IT UP WITH TWO WORDS "PUSH OFF"
imashooter2
Member
I prefer to bend the main similar to the Miculek springs using a homemade jig that is basically 2 nails in a board. The Wolff rebound springs are very handy though.
Lighter springs are an easy path to lighter DA and SA pull weight. Any lightening of springs reduces the margin of safety for reliable function. Go too light on the main and ignition will become unreliable. Lightening of the mainspring without reducing the mass of the hammer increases lock time. Lighten the rebound spring excessively and trigger reset gets sluggish or fails.
I have significantly reduced spring weights on my shoot n move game guns. Carry guns retain the original springs.
Lighter springs are an easy path to lighter DA and SA pull weight. Any lightening of springs reduces the margin of safety for reliable function. Go too light on the main and ignition will become unreliable. Lightening of the mainspring without reducing the mass of the hammer increases lock time. Lighten the rebound spring excessively and trigger reset gets sluggish or fails.
I have significantly reduced spring weights on my shoot n move game guns. Carry guns retain the original springs.
Last edited:
Muffin,
They work.
However, your best practice, re: smoothing the action, is to put a number of rounds (some suggest 1000) through the gun before slicking-it-up.
Also, you will achieve a better result if you combine new springs with some judicious stoning/smoothing of the appropriate surfaces in the gun -the rebound slide and it's adjacent frame surfaces, for instance. You don't want to remove metal, so much, as you just want to "smooth" these surface. Miculek's Trigger Job DVD gives a good tutorage of the process.
Benefits are a smoother, crisper action. Cautions include: too light on your rebound spring can = poor trigger reset and in combo with the wrong main spring, iffy ignition.
I only perform these mods on "broke-in" guns and the effort is worth it for range use. You probably will not notice the differences in an adrenaline-fueled shooting scenario.
Mike
They work.
However, your best practice, re: smoothing the action, is to put a number of rounds (some suggest 1000) through the gun before slicking-it-up.
Also, you will achieve a better result if you combine new springs with some judicious stoning/smoothing of the appropriate surfaces in the gun -the rebound slide and it's adjacent frame surfaces, for instance. You don't want to remove metal, so much, as you just want to "smooth" these surface. Miculek's Trigger Job DVD gives a good tutorage of the process.
Benefits are a smoother, crisper action. Cautions include: too light on your rebound spring can = poor trigger reset and in combo with the wrong main spring, iffy ignition.
I only perform these mods on "broke-in" guns and the effort is worth it for range use. You probably will not notice the differences in an adrenaline-fueled shooting scenario.
Mike
I installed one of their kits in my Model 60, along with trigger/action polishing as described in the above mentioned video and the Kuhnhausen manual. The 8 lb. hammer spring seemed to be balanced better with the 15 lb. rebound spring for me.
Smoother, faster, easier to place shots on target in shorter time, 100% firing function. Nothing not to like, IMO.
Smoother, faster, easier to place shots on target in shorter time, 100% firing function. Nothing not to like, IMO.
photoman
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I've never used the Wolff J frame springs but have had good results with the Apex kits.
Tyrod
Member
On the J frames, I prefer the Wison spring kit and I've tried 'em all.
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