Wolff springs in a 617?

Camster

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I would like to lighten the trigger pull in my late model 617 and was wondering if I only replaced the rebound spring with a Wolff 14 or 15#,would I get an appreciable difference? I've read threads on other forums-seems everyone goes straight to the 13#,they replace the main spring as well.The result-many ftf,then they need to doctor the strain screw,etc,etc to get it reliable again.I'd be happy with a modest improvement.
 
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I would like to lighten the trigger pull in my late model 617 and was wondering if I only replaced the rebound spring with a Wolff 14 or 15#,would I get an appreciable difference? I've read threads on other forums-seems everyone goes straight to the 13#,they replace the main spring as well.The result-many ftf,then they need to doctor the strain screw,etc,etc to get it reliable again.I'd be happy with a modest improvement.
 
I realize I was dealing with a different gun but I noticed a big improvement on my 317 from changing to a slightly lighter rebound spring, and I can't see why you shouldn't try it on your 617.
 
I've used as low as the 13# but some guns do not reset well with it. I generally go with the lightest spring that will give me a positive reset with a rapid D/A pull. I usually stay with the stock mainspring on .22s' and frame mounted firing pin guns.
 
Go ahead and try the 13# spring, what do you have to lose? If it doesn't work use the spring in another gun if you can. The 617 is a fun gun to tinker with because you're not going to be using it for Defense....at least I hope not.....lol. I have a 13# spring in mine and it works just fine, the strain screw did need to be tighhtened all the way though....
 
The Wolff spring kit that I got for my 686 came with 3 rebound springs. I put the lightest in the 686 and the second lightest in the 617. Works great.
 
Originally posted by Camster:
I would like to lighten the trigger pull in my late model 617 and was wondering if I only replaced the rebound spring with a Wolff 14 or 15#,would I get an appreciable difference? I've read threads on other forums-seems everyone goes straight to the 13#,they replace the main spring as well.The result-many ftf,then they need to doctor the strain screw,etc,etc to get it reliable again.I'd be happy with a modest improvement.
If you go to the lightest available RB spring with a full power mainspring, you need to make sure the trigger return is still good. The two springs have to "track" each other somewhat, because the RB spring has to push the hammer back against the mainspring. Make sure the trigger returns smartly.
 
I put #11 rebound spring in a model 17, and a model 14. Both retained the original hammer spring, and both actions are lighter. I also run that spring in a model 19 with a wolff hammer spring. All are for range use only, but all function well. I would not trust them for protection!
 
Abflyboy is correct. When a friend and I were playing around with ISU Centerfire Matches years ago, we "Discovered" that a difference of one pound in the rating of the rebound spring would result in a one-quarter-pound difference in the SA pull weight. This was IMPORTANT in the ISU Centerfire Matches, as the SA had to be at least Three Pounds--but there was no advantage to being over by a LOT.

I have SINCE "Discovered" that this same ratio--one pound diff. in the rebound spring rating equals one-quarter-pound difference in the pull weight--also SEEMS to apply to the DA trigger pull, at least with K-Frame and L-Frame guns.

Also, the "Stock" Rebound Spring is "Rated" as being eighteen (18) pounds. Hope this helps. Paulie686.
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