I'd keep it short as well. I've always bee a fan of Fitz Specials, and that looks like a good candidate! A half nickle silver soldered on the barrel would make an interesting front site.....
Won this rusty locked up S&W 1917 snubbie at auction yesterday
- Thread starter Bill_in_fl
- Start date
shep854
Member
Cocked & Locked
Member
Snub It
I vote keep it short...even shorter than it is now. I like the snub conversion 1917's...S&W's and Colts.
I vote keep it short...even shorter than it is now. I like the snub conversion 1917's...S&W's and Colts.
Very nice piece and a fun project gun!
I can tell you right now w/o the slightest doubt that those grips are genuine India Sambar Stag. And I would polish them up and fit them to your gorgeous Commercial model replacing the plastic grips.
Then I agree with most, keep it a snubby, the same length or shorter and solder on a proper original front sight and base. You can get them from old replaced bulged barrels. Get some nice handfilling wood carry grips and round the butt.
This all assuming the original barrel and cylinder checkout OK of course.
I can tell you right now w/o the slightest doubt that those grips are genuine India Sambar Stag. And I would polish them up and fit them to your gorgeous Commercial model replacing the plastic grips.
Then I agree with most, keep it a snubby, the same length or shorter and solder on a proper original front sight and base. You can get them from old replaced bulged barrels. Get some nice handfilling wood carry grips and round the butt.
This all assuming the original barrel and cylinder checkout OK of course.
OP
Bill_in_fl
Member
That is great to hear that you are positive they are real stag and India Sambar stag to boot! Value?
I thought those looked like real stag, and it looks like TNDave and M29since14 were right about them being real stag too. But the auction description said this....
"Lot Description:
Barrel Has Been Cut Down, Synthetic Stag Grip, Gun is Locked Up, Can't Loosen Up Cylinder."
What do you suggest I use to polish them with? Also where can I get an old bulged 1917 barrel or front sight cut from a barrel? (From all advice I'm leaning towards keeping it snubby)
On another note, regarding my U.S. commercial model. It has a square rear sight notch and the front sight is ribbed on top and as you can see it is ramped. I thought only the Brazilian models had a square rear notch. Why would my U.S. commercial model have a square rear notch? Also, why does mine have a ribbed ramp front sight instead of the usual half moon front sight?
And by the way, thanks to each and every one of you for all the helpful info and advice thus far fellas. I appreciate it very much. Been here just a short time and already learned a lot not only in this thread but just poking around the other forum threads too.
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DGNY
Member
I would polish the stag very lightly with 600 paper and clean crevices with a toothbrush. Then a little auto polish-wax. Some say not to use any petroleum products. Were they mine, I would think less is more in the polishing dep't.
The idea of using a dressed-flat trimmed nickel for a sight sounds pretty good, if you silver solder...
Regards,
Dyson
The idea of using a dressed-flat trimmed nickel for a sight sounds pretty good, if you silver solder...
Regards,
Dyson
Jack Flash
Member
My guess as to value of the stocks is in the $100 to $200 range, so say $150. (I think I remember seeing some that sold for about that recently in the Forum Classifieds.) I will chime in to say they sure look real to me, for what that's worth.
In the late 1920s to early 1930s S&W transitioned from the round top "U Notch Rear Sight" to the flat top "Square Notch Rear Sight". So yours would have been made during or after this time period.
In the late 1920s to early 1930s S&W transitioned from the round top "U Notch Rear Sight" to the flat top "Square Notch Rear Sight". So yours would have been made during or after this time period.
Deacon KC
Member
Gotta go with A10 on this one. It would be a great candidate for a Fitz job. Maybe just thin the trigger guard instead of cutting it away.
Following Chris's line of thought, I doubt the problem is with the
cylinder release bolt. Even if it were stuck forward, that would not
stop the cylinder from opening. The natural position for the bolt
with the cylinder open is forward, because of its rear-mounted pin
and spring pushing it forward.
It well could be that the extractor rod has come unscrewed slightly,
jaming it up against the extractor rod.
However, I think there is something else going on here. If the
center-pin return spring is working properly, even if the extractor rod
has come loose, the bolt (thumbpiece) would be returned to its
normal position. I can't tell, for sure, if the thumbpiece is jammed
all the way forward - it looks like it not quite all the way. It looks
more like the center pin is stuck in the extractor rod, either because
that assembly is bent, or something corrosive has gotten in there, and
is causing it to be stuck.
The first thing I would do is take the side-plate off, and see what
position the bolt is in. If its not all the way forward, I'd get a rod
up against the rear face of the front part of it, and tap it with a
hammer, to see if it will come loose.
A couple-day soak in Kroil may do the trick, as well.
Mike Priwer
cylinder release bolt. Even if it were stuck forward, that would not
stop the cylinder from opening. The natural position for the bolt
with the cylinder open is forward, because of its rear-mounted pin
and spring pushing it forward.
It well could be that the extractor rod has come unscrewed slightly,
jaming it up against the extractor rod.
However, I think there is something else going on here. If the
center-pin return spring is working properly, even if the extractor rod
has come loose, the bolt (thumbpiece) would be returned to its
normal position. I can't tell, for sure, if the thumbpiece is jammed
all the way forward - it looks like it not quite all the way. It looks
more like the center pin is stuck in the extractor rod, either because
that assembly is bent, or something corrosive has gotten in there, and
is causing it to be stuck.
The first thing I would do is take the side-plate off, and see what
position the bolt is in. If its not all the way forward, I'd get a rod
up against the rear face of the front part of it, and tap it with a
hammer, to see if it will come loose.
A couple-day soak in Kroil may do the trick, as well.
Mike Priwer
Rugskipper
Member
I get the distinct impression that with your abilities you won't have much trouble with the lockup problem. If it were me, I'd probably pull the innards before I put it in to soak, but either way would work.
I think that those grips are the real deal, and since I don't much care for the look of Sambar, I'd likely sell them to help finance the project. If the rifling looks good, I'd vote for the snubby option, along with rounding the grip frame, "melting" all the hard edges and then hard-chrome after a good bead blast. Heck, with my old eyes, I might even stick a truGlo up there on the front. Kind of a new-old school look.
I think that those grips are the real deal, and since I don't much care for the look of Sambar, I'd likely sell them to help finance the project. If the rifling looks good, I'd vote for the snubby option, along with rounding the grip frame, "melting" all the hard edges and then hard-chrome after a good bead blast. Heck, with my old eyes, I might even stick a truGlo up there on the front. Kind of a new-old school look.
Jack Flash
Member
No one else has addressed this, so I'll give it a shot. My best guess is that the front sight was modified by some previous owner (or his gunsmith), well after the revolver left the factory.
Dave T
Member
To show you another possibility, here's the one I have:
My barrel is ~3-3/8". I would have preferred an honest 3.5" so if I had yours that's the gun I would make of it. My $.02 worth.
Dave
My barrel is ~3-3/8". I would have preferred an honest 3.5" so if I had yours that's the gun I would make of it. My $.02 worth.
Dave
Many people are unfamiliar with real stag and call them synthetic or call elk antler stag. I only like genuine India Sambar Stag and I've been making things from it for 30 yrs or more and once familiar it's easy to spot. Worth at least $150 or more.
It's a tough material and easy to work.. It may need a slight sanding with 600 paper as was suggested but stay away from the edges and be careful not to round them where they match up to the the grip straps. Ususally a touch-up polish is all that's needed to get surface grime off and return the sheen.
I use a CLEAN white very soft cotton power buffing wheel with white rouge and polish very gently. Again avoid the edges. A dirty buff or colored rouge will instantly ruin them by impregnating the color or dirt in the pores of the stag. Avoid polishing the "bark". Just clean with mild soap and water 1st. White automotive 'polishing' compound (not rubbing compound) and a soft rag will work just as well but with a little more labor.
The com'l 1917 was made before 1929 and may have come with the sq notch rear. But more likely has been squared up because the front was definitely modified; Smith didn't ramp the 1/2 moon sights until the late 50's period. Is there any sign of the gun being reblued or the sights touched up with cold blue? The gun doesn't look reblued but it wouldn't if it went back to the factory for the work. Did you look for a factory 'rework' date on the left side of the grip frame under the grip?
Here's mine.
olskool
Member
make a bobber out of it brother........
OP
Bill_in_fl
Member
Thanks for that info Hondo44. No sign of my commercial model being reblued nor touched up with cold blue. But due to its age, I just don't believe it would look like a new gun like it does without being factory refinished. Possible but not likely. I mean it looks brand new. Must be a S&W factory refinish unless it was wrapped in an oily rag and stored in a drawer for 80 years. Haven't taken the grips off yet to check under them to see if there is a factory rework date stamped.
From all advice I'm leaning towards keeping this other cut barrel project revolver as a snub. But then again I have a friend who is offering to sell me a brand new, never installed, 5 & 1/2 inch Brazilian barrel (I.N.A. stamped on right side) for $50.00 (What exactly does I.N.A. stand for?)
Someone told me that the Brazilian barrels have a slightly different contour than the U.S. barrels. Is that true?
Any issues different with installing a Brazilian barrel different from installing a U.S. barrel? Brazilian threads match up with U.S. frame threads?
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I agree with most. I would keep it snub. I would consider adding the front sight with a barrel band if there is enough room. I think it would add a welcome bit of visual balance to the gun. Round butting the grip and bobbing the hammer would also rank highly on my want list.
Looks like a great project. I'm envious.
Bob
Looks like a great project. I'm envious.
Bob
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