WTK: How low can you go....

[SPR1]

Double action..... 686SSR..... stock hammer, Apex tactical .500" FP, 13lb Wolff rebound spring, factory mainspring.... I have the strain screw turned down to set the pull at 7 lbs total. I plan to shoot both Federal and Winchester small pistol primers, but will try to focus on using the Federals. Can I go lower on the pull?

 

[tomcatt51]

With a stock hammer you may get FTF at 7 lbs with the combination you're running. On CF S&W revolvers lighter pulls than that pretty much require a lighter/lightened hammer to allow lighter springs and hand seated primers.

 

[SPR1]

Thanks. I will give it a whirl tomorrow where it is and if needed tweak it upwards.

 

[SPR1]

Federal primers worked, Win's did not as expected. I set it back to 7.75 lbs where the Winchesters worked. Do many folks go lighter than 13lbs on the rebound spring? I would love to take another pound off the DA pull.

 

[tomcatt51]

You can go lighter. It depends how well you get your finger off the trigger vs having the trigger "help" your finger forward. My CF's have 12 lb rebound springs and 6 lb DA pulls. MY 617 is about 7 1/2 lb DA but uses an 11 lb rebound with 1 or 1 1/2 coils clipped.

With really light rebound springs you need to (carefully) massage the ramps on the rebound slide and hammer that move the hammer back near the end of the trigger return.

Use only Federal primers. They are pretty much required for a reliable sub 7 1/2 lb DA pull.

 

[adweisbe]

You can't just back out the strain screw. You need to bend the mainspring as well. You can go to 4.5 pounds and lower if you are Randy Lee.

 

[tomcatt51]

He has a Wolff reduced power mainspring as original equipment. It has more arch.

I believe Randy has them running under 3 lbs.

 

[SPR1]

Thanks.
I also have an older Wolff reduced power mainspring that I may try, I think it is actually a little lighter. But, I may just call it good for a while, as chasing FTF's get's annoying. However, it does seem like a disporportionate improvement to lose even a half a pound from where I am.
The trigger action in general feels pretty good and balanced right now. I may shoot it another 1000 times or so and then decide whether I want to start playing again. I only have 150 or so live shots through it now as I just got it. I might possible gain a few ounces of improvement just from it breaking in. I did lightly polish the rebound slide.

 

[adweisbe]

Also a +1 for hand seating primers. This makes a big difference and is worth it to shave some more weight.

 

[SPR1]

Off topic, but the crown on this gun looks like crap. There were two in the shop when I got it, and the other one had a chip out of the crown. This one looks lopsided. It took a bit more windage adjustment to hit center than I would expected. I am going to wring it out for accuracy on the next session and if disappointed, all non-factory bits will come out and back it will go. I have gotten less and less tolerant of "gun kits" these days.

 

[buckeyeshooter1]

I had a 25-2 reworked by a now deceased gunsmith in the 80's. I told him this would be my 'bullseye' competition gun. I wanted a fairly light single action trigger. He returned it to me with a 2 pound trigger on single action and an 8 pound double action that is unbelieveably smooth. I've been shooting it now 30 years with never a hiccup and if anything its even smoother now. I was lucky enough to have him do a 29, 27 and 19 for me while he was still alive. None of the revolvers he worked on will ever be for sale at any price-- they are just that good!

 

[SPR1]

update.... it went back to Smith for the accuracy.... a new barrel was installed and the gun returned to me one week after they got it. Off to the range tomorrow.....

 

[lrad]

If you have not watched the Jerry Miculek DVD titled "TRIGGER JOB", I would suggest that you watch it. This is by far the best information I have seen on lightening and smoothing S&W triggers.