X frame cleaning ?

[Palmer812]

I just shot my .500 toaday for the first time. I bought it used and it was clean as new but now after 30 rounds it was filthy. The front of the cylinderr and the compensator were both black. Hoppe's alone didn't seem to have any effect on it at all. I finally broke out some 0000 steel wool and it soaked with #9 worked pretty good but took way too long. Is there an easier way? BTW man was shooting that thing fun!!

 

[shawn mccarver]

I just shot my .500 toaday for the first time. I bought it used and it was clean as new but now after 30 rounds it was filthy. The front of the cylinderr and the compensator were both black. Hoppe's alone didn't seem to have any effect on it at all. I finally broke out some 0000 steel wool and it soaked with #9 worked pretty good but took way too long. Is there an easier way? BTW man was shooting that thing fun!!

Are you going to send it back to S&W for re-pacification? Your steel wool left microscopic particles of bare steel which will rust giving your clean revolver a nice rust colored patina if neglected.

This is why S&W pacifies stainless revolvers as part of the finishing process after all machine work is done.

I once received a brand new Model 65 which had either missed the process or had not been properly pacified and it developed very noticeable rust in short order when carried by the customer.

Steel wool is not an appropriate way to "clean" fine S&Ws, although there are those on this forum who insist otherwise. Personally, I would never, ever purchase a revolver on which steel wool had been used unless the first thing I did was to send it back to the factory for refinishing/re-pacification.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

I agree, don't use the steel wool. Fine some white scotch brite pads, it's also like a 0000 pad but it's nylon. A brass brush works well too.

IMHO don't get too crazy about the burnt powder marks, it won't hurt a thing. If you must use a little mothers mag polish or flitz on the tough stains, just go easy because your using a fine polish and in time you can open up the tollerances on your new gun.

 

[stevieboy]

I know a couple of ways to get the black rings off the cylinder front of a stainless revolver. Both involve a little, but not too much elbow grease, and take a couple of minutes.

Generally, I brush them out with a solvent soaked bronze brush. The bronze is softer than steel and won't erode it.

Or, I use a lead removing cloth. There are several makes out there and they all seem to work. I'm using a Birchwood Casey cloth at the moment, it does the job with little fuss (the cloth, when cut into strips, also does an excellent job of cleaning the bore and chambers).

Whatever you do, however, do NOT use either of these techniques on a blued gun. The bronze brush will erode blueing and the lead removing cloth will also take off blueing. I clean my blued guns with a lead removing cloth that is marked "safe" for blued guns which I purchased from Brownells.

 

[skeeterbait]

Buy some if this. It will clean the powder and lead residue off easily.

 

[Florey55]

Use Slip2000 Carbon Killer - works like magic in 3 mins

 

[DonD]

Are you going to send it back to S&W for re-pacification? Your steel wool left microscopic particles of bare steel which will rust giving your clean revolver a nice rust colored patina if neglected.

This is why S&W pacifies stainless revolvers as part of the finishing process after all machine work is done.

This is quite correct but it is passivation, not pacifcation. Don

 

[nutsforsmiths]

I've had good success on my 460 using M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner and a bronze brush for most cleanings. For stubborn spots, a lead removing cloth is great.