Yep380 is Bubba the Gunsmith - hammer stud question

[yep380]

I picked up a model 38 a few months ago. It wasn't in the best of shape, but I liked it and the price was right. I've been wanting to learn more about working on guns, so... you can see where this is going.

I picked up the book "Gunsmithing: Pistols & Revolvers" by Patrick Sweeney and spent a few weeks reading it. I also watched a ton of youtube videos to become familiar with the complete disassembly procedure. I then set out to smooth out the action and install a new hand (it was slow on 3 cylinders) in my model 38.

Things went well dissembling the gun and smoothing things out. The cylinder lock plunger and spring were a little rusty, but I got that sorted. I stoned and smoothed everywhere the book said. I installed and fitted the new hand (that took a while, but my timing is spot on now).

The part I missed, and didn't see in any videos was "don't pull the hammer back with the hammer spring attached and the side plate off". So when I disassembled the gun, I took the sideplate off before pulling the hammer back and pining the hammer spring for removal. The same for reassembly, I pulled the hammer back and pulled the pin on the hammer spring to re-tension it with the sideplate off. I didn't work the action fully with the sideplate off other than what I just stated.

The gun works great, the action is super smooth - I'm pleased with the results.

But, I noticed there is now a circle below the cylinder release that is obviously the backside of the hammer stud. I'm guessing that I moved the stud a very small amount while the working the action to remove and install the hammer spring without the sideplate. I'm not worried about what the gun looks like, it was appearance challenged when I bought it.

I am wondering if I bubba'ed up the hammer stud? I did take the sideplate off again and the stud appears to be solidly in place and intact. The action is as smooth as I've ever seen on a jframe.

Picture attached. Thanks for any input, and yes, I'm bubba - my goal was to learn, and I'm definitely learning.

 

[mh51]

The hammer pin is pressed in at the factory, and its usually visible from the outside on most guns if you look closely. I doubt that you did anything to damage it. Pat yourself on the back for your work, and enjoy it!

 

[chief38]

Two scenarios here. Either the Stud & Frame were not polished as perfect as they could have been when built OR the Stud was replaced at some point and again it was not polished to the best case scenario. In either case, as long as the Stud is tight, straight and plumb - all you have is a minor cosmetic situation that does not effect the gun in any way. This is not uncommon and some guys who polished before finishing did a better job than others.

Since you are talking about a M38 Airweight, this is a bit more common (Stud more visible) because the Frame is Aluminum and the Stud is Steel and so the two materials polish and cut at two different rates. The Aluminum alloy is Anodized black and the Steel Stud is not going to look the same as Aluminum does - hence it is more visible. No Problemo!

 

[yep380]

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

I only have one picture of that side of the gun before I worked on it, so I was unable to determine if the stud was visible before I worked on it. I never noticed it if it was. It does appear to be flush and is definitely solid and plumb.

After seeing this, I looked closely at my m36 ('74?) and with a magnifying glass, in just the right light, can make out the faint outline of the hammer stud.

 

[chief38]

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

I only have one picture of that side of the gun before I worked on it, so I was unable to determine if the stud was visible before I worked on it. I never noticed it if it was. It does appear to be flush and is definitely solid and plumb.

After seeing this, I looked closely at my m36 ('74?) and with a magnifying glass, in just the right light, can make out the faint outline of the hammer stud.

When the Stud is pressed in, it bottoms out and can only go in so far. Then the Stud and Frame are polished together. If it loosens and moves it still can not come out more - UNLESS it was not pressed in all the way (not likely).

My theory (sight unseen) would be that because the Stud and Frame are two different materials on an Airweight the microscopic space did not take the finish perfectly and the Stud's profile is visible. Again - not a problem! Most vintage Smiths are polished very well and the Studs are almost imperceptible - but I have seen a few that have not had spectacular polishing jobs. Maybe it was produced and polished on Friday at 4:45 - lol! In either case no big deal!

I have (over the years) replaced two broken Studs on two different J Frames and did NOT want to refinish the guns. I did these jobs myself and they came out pretty darn good! It required perfect measuring (you only really get one chance at pressing them in) polishing and finishing them PRIOR to pressing them in. Obviously NOT the way the Factory does them - but again I did NOT want to have to send the guns in to S&W to get them refinished. Both guns came out very well (about what yours looks like) however I will say the Stainless M60 came out a bit better because of the Stainless finish and is less noticable. The blued M36 I did looks almost like yours which considering I did it in an unconventional way I was quite pleased! It avoided a major expense, saved the hassle shipping and avoided refinishing otherwise perfectly finished guns. Many here say it can't be done - but it can if you have the skills, tools and patience! I figured if I failed - then I could always bite the bullet and send them in - glad I think this way because 99% of the time I have been successful in doing things myself.

 

[yep380]

I have (over the years) replaced two broken Studs on two different J Frames and did NOT want to refinish the guns. I did these jobs myself and they came out pretty darn good!

Thanks for the reply. Would love to see a pic of your work if you have one.

I believe one of the reasons I noticed the stud profile on the back after my work is I hadn't cleaned the rest of the gun up after handling it so much. I think there was some oil and whatnot that was over that spot and it made it stick out more.

I just hit that area with a microfiber rag and it's really not perceptible to the naked eye now. I took another pic (attached), and in the light, at the right angle, you can see it.

Anyway, I feel confident from the replies here that I didn't do any damage by cycling the action with the sideplate off - but I will definitely release the tension on the hammer spring with the sideplate on in the future.