New 3-9 scope shooting 2 inches low and 2 1/4 inches to the left. That should mean 8 clicks right and 9 clicks up. But with the rifle in a lead sled trained on the bullet hole in the target before adjustment, that should put the crosshair on the center of the target. I can't tell that the crosshair moved at all. It's hard for me to sight in a gun cradled in the lead sled; I can't seem to get my eye in position to keep the crosshair stable. What am I doing wrong? I'll go shoot again tomorrow to see if the adjustment helped.
Zeroing new scope
- Thread starter harrym
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cyphertext
US Veteran
You are trying to mix two methods of zeroing a scope together.
What distance are you shooting at? How far does a click move the POI, and at what distance? For example, if you are shooting at 25 yards, and your scope is set for 1/4" at 100, 1 click is only moving the POI 1/16"... (I hope I got that right this time
)
If you know the distance you are shooting at, and the increment of movement, then you just do the math and turn the dials the number of clicks needed to move the POI(Point of Impact) to where your POA (Point of Aim).
The other method doesn't require calculations. With the gun fully supported where it doesn't move, you shoot at the a particular spot on the paper. After firing, you make sure the scope is realigned with the same point of aim. While looking through the scope and not moving the rifle, turn the turrets to move the crosshairs to where they line up with the point of impact. This method may take two people, one to hold the rifle and look through the scope, and another to turn the turrets.
What distance are you shooting at? How far does a click move the POI, and at what distance? For example, if you are shooting at 25 yards, and your scope is set for 1/4" at 100, 1 click is only moving the POI 1/16"... (I hope I got that right this time
)If you know the distance you are shooting at, and the increment of movement, then you just do the math and turn the dials the number of clicks needed to move the POI(Point of Impact) to where your POA (Point of Aim).
The other method doesn't require calculations. With the gun fully supported where it doesn't move, you shoot at the a particular spot on the paper. After firing, you make sure the scope is realigned with the same point of aim. While looking through the scope and not moving the rifle, turn the turrets to move the crosshairs to where they line up with the point of impact. This method may take two people, one to hold the rifle and look through the scope, and another to turn the turrets.
1 click = 1/4" @ 100 yards. Shooting at target 35 yards distance. So it should be 16 clicks to right, not 8, and 18 clicks up to zero. Is that it? Then fine tune from there. I'll be using Cauldwell shooting bags at the range, not the lead sled, and Birchwood Casey Shoot-N-See targets.
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cyphertext
US Veteran
If your scope moves in 1/4" increments at 100 yards, and you are shooting at 35 yards, that is roughly 1/3 of the distance that the scope is set for.
So, 1/4 inch movement X 1/3 of distance = 1/12 of an inch movement at 35 yards. So, 12 clicks will move you an inch at 35 yards.
If you are shooting 2" low, you would need to go 24 clicks up. (2 inches x 12 clicks per inch=24 clicks)
If you shooting 2 1/4" inches left, then you would go 27 clicks right. (2.25 inches x 12 clicks per inch = 27)
That should get you close. Shooting at such a close distance, parallax could be an issue for you.
So, 1/4 inch movement X 1/3 of distance = 1/12 of an inch movement at 35 yards. So, 12 clicks will move you an inch at 35 yards.
If you are shooting 2" low, you would need to go 24 clicks up. (2 inches x 12 clicks per inch=24 clicks)
If you shooting 2 1/4" inches left, then you would go 27 clicks right. (2.25 inches x 12 clicks per inch = 27)
That should get you close. Shooting at such a close distance, parallax could be an issue for you.
H Richard
US Veteran
If 35 yards is the "normal" distance you plan to use the rifle, you would be much better served by a Red dot sight rather than a scope. You will have a greater field of view, and more easily acquired aiming point (red dot vs crosshair). You retain the advantage of not having to align front and rear sights.
eyegots2no
Member
Cypher has the right info.
I am curious though, what brand of scope, what rifle & caliber, and, which mounts did you use and who mounted it, please.
I am curious though, what brand of scope, what rifle & caliber, and, which mounts did you use and who mounted it, please.
I'll be shooting up to 100 yards, but I'm using the 35-yard range to sight in. If I can get close at 35, it shouldn't be too difficult to get spot on when I go to the 100-yard range. This is a Bushnell 3-9 Banner scope on a .243 rifle. I mounted the scope with the included rings on a Picatinney one piece mount. It was torqued to specs with a Wheeler FAT wrench, alternating screws.
coltle6920
Member
Lead sleds are nice but there is always some unavoidable movement by the rifle or even the table you are using.
I used to just spin the dials to adjust the scope until it went past my target then bring it back.Was never any good at math so just needed patience.I'm not into grouping my shots so being able to hit a 5" plate at 100yds is good enough for me.
I used to just spin the dials to adjust the scope until it went past my target then bring it back.Was never any good at math so just needed patience.I'm not into grouping my shots so being able to hit a 5" plate at 100yds is good enough for me.
MichiganScott
Member
I always set my bolt guns so they are about 3/4" low at 25 yards, since that's what my club's short line is. I find that when I move to 100, impact will be anywhere from right on to a couple inches high, depending on caliber.
I don't own a Lead Sled and never will. You can't use them to get a good zero because the rifle will recoil differently than it will when held in your hands. If you can't shoot good groups from field positions, your next best bet are bags.
I don't own a Lead Sled and never will. You can't use them to get a good zero because the rifle will recoil differently than it will when held in your hands. If you can't shoot good groups from field positions, your next best bet are bags.
One advantage of higher priced scopes is they often have more precise and repeatable adjustments. Some of my low priced scopes are pretty inconsistent in their adjustment increments. I don't know specifically about the Banner but it is not an expensive scope. I have very good luck with Leupold and Burris scopes.
Rastoff
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Did you bore-sight it first?
H Richard
US Veteran
Bore sight first to get on paper, then sight at 25 yards, then move to 100.
cyphertext
US Veteran
Guys, he is already on paper at 35 yards... What would he get out of bore sighting at this point? Bore sighting gets you on paper.
When I set up a new scope, I bore sight and fire the first shot at 50 yards... My range does not have a 25 yard line for centerfire rifles.
When I set up a new scope, I bore sight and fire the first shot at 50 yards... My range does not have a 25 yard line for centerfire rifles.
The 35-yard range is just a public shooting area available locally. There is a backstop and a target frame, but no benches or supervision. The nearest regular range is about 50 miles away, with shooting distances up to 100 yards. Access to the local range is on a dirt road poorly maintained, so I don't go there when rain is forecast. It can become impassable within minutes. I'm waiting for clear skies right now.
Rastoff
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Yes, I agree. I was just curious.
Waywatcher
Member
For rifles in this velocity range, a 50 yard zero is just about perfect. It will hit zero once at 50 yards, rise about 2" above zero and come back to zero somewhere out around 210 yards, and falling about 2" at 250 yards. Lots of words and numbers there, but the short of it is that if you zero at 50 yards, you will be within 2" high or low (max) all the way out to 250 yards.
I get on paper at 25, fine tune my zero for windage at 100 yards, then bring it back to 50 and only adjust the elevation at 50 until I'm dead on.
I get on paper at 25, fine tune my zero for windage at 100 yards, then bring it back to 50 and only adjust the elevation at 50 until I'm dead on.
Finally got the Bushnell 3-9 scope on my .243 zeroed in. When I got my first scoped rifle 64 years ago, changing the windage/elevation moved the crosshairs. They could end up off-center. The crosshairs on my modern scopes do not move. How are they changing POI?
cyphertext
US Veteran
The cross-hairs don't move. They are etched on a piece of glass that is stationary. You are actually moving a lens inside of the scope which changes your field of view through the scope.
TacTrain Skill at Arms Development - Act-vs-React
TacTrain Skill at Arms Development - Act-vs-React
Rastoff
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Nice article. I didn't know that.
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