Apex trigger SD40VE review

Just finished installing my new $20 Apex trigger kit. Not very hard to install, not super easy either. If you watch their YouTube video and pause it in a step by step fashion I believe anyone can do it.

I've been running snap caps through it to decide just how much improvement the kit gave me. Best as I can tell you'll get about 33% better with the kit. The trigger will still be long like a gun with no manual safety should be. This gun does have the standard trigger safety but no other external safety. Meaning, you dont want a hair trigger on this style firearm.

I was worried the Apex kit may make the trigger too light, and that worry was unwarrented completely. The SD40VE has a long tough trigger from the factory. The Apex kit lightens the trigger PERFECTLY. You will loose the long gritty hard factory pull and get a long smooth 33% lighter trigger pull.

In short, the Apex trigger is well worth the $20 and the 45 minute install. Others may be faster than I, and that is fine, I like taking my time and making sure everything functions well.

A bonus in the video from Apex shows you polishing areas and lubrications steps as well. Very nice touch. Will head to the range tomorrow and give a follow up after some live rounds.

Here is the Apex video:

YouTube

DR

My SD40VE has the Apex Spring Kit and I agree with everything you said. However, I was at the range this morning and I experienced something strange. My pistol went "click" but there was no "bang". I ejected the round and found no visible mark on the primer. This happened 4 times out of the 150 rounds that I brought to the range.

Could it be that the striker block did not disengage during my misfires? Did my new Apex spring kit have anything to do with it? I am going back to the range next week with a different brand of ammo just to see if I can figure out what's going on.

Modraker,

Keep us posted....if mine does that I will be seriously upset.

I liked your write up but I have a few things to add, just my experience with these guns.

The Apex kit will give you a lighter trigger pull but it will not be really any smoother.

It feels some what smoother because your not putting as much pressure on the rough spots you were with the original springs.

Also some hard primers won't fire with the reduced striker spring.

I've installed the kit on my personal SD40VE and it was better but I wasn't satisfied.

I tore the gun down and polished all the contact areas I could find.

After putting it back together the pull was too light for a carry gun, just under 5 lbs.

If I was only going to the range with this gun I would have left it alone.

Ended up putting striker and trigger reset springs back in to bring the poundage back up for carry purposes.

If you don't like polishing the internal parts this kits for you.

But if you are the type that likes to polish all contact points, do that first before getting any spring kits.

You might not need it.

Just my experience with my personal gun, 3

I did a little polishing with 600 grit as recommended, but not much. Obviously it was enough to smooth mine out some. Lubricating the polished areas may have helped also.

I kept all my factory parts, so I can go back if needed. What brand primers /ammo gave you trouble?


I was thinking modraker that I'd check those two little plastic gizmos that hold the striker spring onto the striker....just a thought...

DR

drinva said:

I was thinking modraker that I'd check those two little plastic gizmos that hold the striker spring onto the striker....just a thought...

Click to expand...

I took the gun apart when I got home and checked all the Apex springs that I put in. All seems to be in order. I'm scratching my head as to why there was not even a hint of a dent on the primers.

modraker said:

I took the gun apart when I got home and checked all the Apex springs that I put in. All seems to be in order. I'm scratching my head as to why there was not even a hint of a dent on the primers.

Click to expand...

I would take the striker out and clean the channel well.

DO NOT LUBRICATE IT, it just collects junk.

3

3hounds said:

I would take the striker out and clean the channel well.

DO NOT LUBRICATE IT, it just collects junk.

3

Click to expand...

Earlier, I took out the striker assembly, the extractor and the striker block. Then I cleaned the channel out with a dry patch. Lo and behold, a bunch of tiny metal shavings came out with the patch. Since none of the parts looked like there was anything missing, I think they must be the remains of the slide's machining process. Now, we'll see how she performs. Thanks, 3.

Yes sir, most likely that's what they are.

Compressed air works good, even the canned air for computers, but wear eye protection.

3

modraker said:

Earlier, I took out the striker assembly, the extractor and the striker block. Then I cleaned the channel out with a dry patch. Lo and behold, a bunch of tiny metal shavings came out with the patch. Since none of the parts looked like there was anything missing, I think they must be the remains of the slide's machining process. Now, we'll see how she performs. Thanks, 3.

Click to expand...

Is there a video that can show a novice how to do this?

NYnewbie said:

Is there a video that can show a novice how to do this?

Click to expand...

There is a video on YouTube - SD/Sigma Kit install - YouTube

It shows how to disassemble the area in question. I don't know if there is one showing the cleaning process.

Not having a dent in the primer leads me to believe you have an issue with the striker block.

Short Bus Driver said:

Not having a dent in the primer leads me to believe you have an issue with the striker block.

Click to expand...

That's exactly right. It happened 4 times out of 150 rounds so it could have been the tiny metal shavings that I found and removed when I checked it out at home. I believe the metal bits were lodged around the area of the striker block that allows the striker to go by.

S&W has been known to leave rough edges in the striker channel where it crosses the striker block hole. In my case they failed to remove the shavings caused by the machining process.

Anyway, we'll find out if I'm right next week when I go shooting again.

modraker said:

S&W has been known to leave rough edges in the striker channel which crosses into the striker block hole. In my case they failed to remove the shavings caused by the machining process.

Click to expand...

It's not just S&W....the Ruger SR series is particularly bad about this as well. This is one of my personal quirks, concerning my guns. I like guns that I can easily disassemble and clean out the firing pin/striker channel, like S&W M&P and SD series, Glocks, Ruger SR series, and of course, 1911s. I don't like to have to knock out pins or do complex disassembly just to clean out this area, which I think does need cleaning periodically.

modraker you can check your gun without going to the range.

Make sure gun is empty first of all.

Get a pencil and put the eraser end down the barrel, point it straight up and pull the trigger.

If the firing pin is working the pencil should shoot out of the gun somewhat.

Distance varies, maybe a foot or so.

I've also used those bic pens that are the softer type plastic.


3

drinva said:

I did a little polishing with 600 grit as recommended, but not much. Obviously it was enough to smooth mine out some. Lubricating the polished areas may have helped also.

I kept all my factory parts, so I can go back if needed. What brand primers /ammo gave you trouble?


I was thinking modraker that I'd check those two little plastic gizmos that hold the striker spring onto the striker....just a thought...

DR

Click to expand...

In my experience primers listed below from softest to hardest.

Federal, Winchester, Remington, and CCI.

I reload rifle, pistol, and shotgun.

Never had a federal primer not go bang.

Now consistency is a whole different topic, as in velocity differences from primer to primer.

3

3hounds said:

modraker you can check your gun without going to the range.

Make sure gun is empty first of all.

Get a pencil and put the eraser end down the barrel, point it straight up and pull the trigger.

If the firing pin is working the pencil should shoot out of the gun somewhat.

Distance varies, maybe a foot or so.

I've also used those bic pens that are the softer type plastic.


3

Click to expand...

By golly, that works and it's kinda fun. Thanks 3.

Yes it is, my wife sits there and just shakes her head.

3

3hounds said:

Yes it is, my wife sits there and just shakes her head.

3

Click to expand...

LOL - My wife's been watching me enjoy my guns for forty years. She still can't figure out what I see in them.

Final range review

Just came in from the range, blew through 300 rounds without a single issue. The new Apex trigger is exactly what this gun needed. Best $20 I have ever spent on a firearm. My initial percentage at home was just about dead on. You'll get a 33% better trigger in the SD40VE with the Apex install. Mine is about 50% better due to the polishing in combination with the trigger. I'm guessing my trigger to be in the 6 lb range which is perfect for me.
Overall, I give the Apex Trigger Kit a two thumbs up for value and operation. I will buy it again if I ever buy another SD pistol and there is a large chance that I may. The gun is such a value, the Apex is also a great value making the two a perfect meld. Ill report back again in the 3-5000 round range.

DR