Just bought a new case hardened Henry lever action. Before I go to Alaska bear hunting (just kidding) can someone please tell me the best deal/bullet size for the range? We have a lot of hoggs, but for now I am interested in range advice. Thanks!

Congrats on your first 45-70. I don't know about the best deals, but Remington 405gr @1300 fps are easy shooting for just a fun range day. Hornady leverevolution arent too bad either. Those are 325gr @ 2000fps.

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Please no more EZs...

I have two .45-70’s, a Ruger No.1 and an 1886 Winchester carbine that was rebarreled. I shoot the same load in both - a 300 grain Hornady HP and moderate dose of 3031, a load taken from the Hornady book. It’s easy on the shoulder, extremely accurate (honest, even from the Winchester!) and has taken numerous whitetails.

If you expect to shoot a .45-70 any reasonable amount you need to accept the fact that you will need to hand-load for it! Jacketed large caliber bullets at as much as $2 each, or factory ammunition at often $50 to $60/20 just aren't practical. The "best" range ammo is what you load yourself, preferably using bullets you cast yourself! Besides, re-loading is an extremely enjoyable aspect of shooting for any caliber!

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Gunsmithing since 1961

Good hog cartridge from what I hear.

You will have to tell us what the best load for your rifle is because none of us has your gun to test.

That's your job. Good luck in your search!

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Pisgah

I don't think I ever fired so much as a single factory loaded round through my .45-70. Or a single jacketed bullet either. I shot mostly the plain base Lee 405 gr. or RCBS gas checked that I believe was 435 grs. or so. The reduced loads used Accurate XMP5744 and the full power stuff used IMR 4198. The really light loads used a single round ball or cast .454" revolver bullet with 231. I had everything covered from the smallest to the biggest game imaginable.

OP is looking for a starting point. He’s not looking for a lecture about reloading or snide remarks about him figuring out best load for his rifle. He’s looking for a starting point. Good grief, it’s a wonder anyone asks for advice.

I only have 3 45/70's at present. That could change as I do not want to run out. LOL
For economical shooting as said reloading is a must and home cast bullets from salvaged lead are the least expensive. I have found my own cast bullets as accurate as jacketed bullets. I don't load to hunt mastadons nor do I powderpuff load.
5744 works well but it is so expensive these days I use mostly IMR 4198 and Reloader 7. They are not cheap either but not quite so pricey.
I have not shot a factory load 45/70 in decades so cannot comment on range ammo but that I see on the shelves gives a bad bout of sticker shock.
Some of the loads out there will knock your fillings loose so buy with that in mind.

The 405 gr cast lead "cowboy" loads from several manufacturers (like HSM, Grizzly) are usually the most costs effective and pleasant on the range. However, availability may be challenging. I am not a fan of the Hornady Leverevolution stuff, but it is often more likely on the shelf and suitable for making bang noises. Expect $2-3 per shot minimum for any factory loads you can find.

Not sure about a Henry rifle, but the long rubber tipped Hornady leverevolution would not function in my 450 Marlin lever gun.

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Len

Black Hills Ammo .45-70 405GR FPL | Taylor's & Co.

Not cheap but none will be. I believe HSM runs a little cheaper if you can find it. I’ve not personally used it but hear it’s pretty good.

Remember too, these “light loads” will handle anything you’re ever going to hunt. The “snot knockers” are not necessary. No one would think you’re under gunned shooting a 400 grain bullet @1350 fos from a 475 Linebaugh handgun. Shoot the same from a 45-70 rifle and you’ll hear it’s barely enough for whitetail deer. No need beating yourself up on the range OR in the hunting fields.


Dan

Thank you, and thanks for all info by others. I am not into reloading. I wanted to in all of my large calibers but my brother and friends talked me out of it.

I have the time, but not sure I have the patience. We shall see.

IMHO, a rifle chambered in any of the older calibers such as 45-70, 38-55, etc. basically require a reloading set up. Many times factory ammo is unavailable at the time and probably not available in the configuration you want.

That said, the cost of factory ammo in obsolete or semi obsolete calibers is crazy expensive. IMHO if you are going to spend big bucks on a nice rifle in the caliber you want, then it pays to spend the money and get the set up to roll your own. The other nice benefit is that you do not need to make all your ammo to full power. Shooting 45-70 all day long will put a hurtin' on your shoulder! You can easily download the cartridges designated for target work and enjoy shooting your rifle.

Best "range ammo" IMHO would be what you could find,within your budget&buy in a quantity that is reasonable to you,for range use. Another words a moderate load(unless you are really recoil insensitive) that you can buy 2+ boxes of at least.

I have owned three .45-70 rifles, a .45-90, and a .45 Sharps Express. What I've learned over the years is that bore & groove diameters are all over the charts and rifling twist rates can also make a big difference in accuracy. What works nicely in one will be disappointing in another.

Adding today's prices for factory ammo at $3 and up per round, the .45-70 is a perfect example of why handloading ammo makes a lot of sense.

I have 3 molds including Lee C459-500, 459-405, and 459-340. Depending on the alloy used the 340-grain mold will produce .459" to .461" diameter and 318 to 336 grains; the 405 mold drops .458 t0 .460" and 388 to 400 grains; the 500 gas check mold casts .459 to .462" and 470 to 490 grains. The harder alloys tend to produce lighter bullets of larger diameter (less shrinkage in the mold).

My rifles vary from .459 to .463" groove diameters and different rifling twists; slower twists usually work best with longer-heavier bullets while faster twists favor the shorter-lighter bullets. A reasonable compromise, IMO, is the 405-grain bullet that seems to give reliable performance in most rifles.

I select bullets for each rifle based to match (as closely as possible) individual groove diameter and rifling twist rate. My cast bullets remain unsized after casting and I lubricate them by hand with white lithium grease (any auto supply store).

My lighter loads are similar in performance to the old BP carbine loads (.45-55-405). I have made up some heavier loads (for the stronger actions) using both smokeless and black powder, but I find them to be excessively punishing to shoot without any real noticeable difference in performance on game animals. I have found that the 340 and 405 grain bullets provide excellent results on Colorado mule deer (175-275 lbs) and elk (450-600 lbs), in the 1100-1200FPS range. A full charge 500-grain gas check bullet will penetrate a large elk from end to end and break major bones along the way.

Suggestions:

1. Slug your bore or have it done by a gunsmith. A soft lead slug is driven through the bore, then measured to determine the actual diameter needed to perform best in that rifle. Ideally the bullet diameter should be at or about 0.001" above groove diameter.
2. Refer to manufacturer's site for rifling twist. If yours is less than about 1:30" you will probably do best with bullets around 300 to 420 grains.
3. A simple home reloading set-up will cost about $200, or about the price of 3 or 4 boxes of factory ammo. The expense will be recovered pretty quickly, then you will have a regular source of moderately priced ammo. With moderate loads the modern solid-head cases can last a long, long time. The Lyman Handloading manual will take you step-by-step through the process and provide pressure-tested load data to achieve best performance in your rifle.
4. Several bullet casting companies can provide cast bullets in the best diameter for your rifle and cast with lead alloys suitable for your intended velocities, and pre-lubed with high-tech lubricant for trouble-free performance.

Have fun!

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Life of the party until 8:00PM

Whatever you load yourself.
A Lee Loader is plenty good enough. Early on I got a Lyman 310 tong tool for .45-70, and that is all you will ever need unless you plan to be a high-volume shooter. Highly recommended and fun to use if you can find one. Not many will want to load 500 rounds at a time. Never fired a single factory .45-70 load through any of my rifles (two trapdoors and a Marlin 1895). Normally I use only cast bullets, and those are adequate for every hunting purpose in the lower 48.

Had a Marlin for a while.
Bought it for a pig gun while stationed in California.
The standard 405 gr softpoint will work on anything you point it at and will not hurt you as bad as some of the other loads available.
I loaded up and down the scale of loads listed as safe for lever actions.
Some of them were real bruisers in that light Marlin.
Also did some gallery loads and Black powder loads.
DO NOT shoot Black powder loads in your Henry.
They are fun but the dis assembly and scrubbing will ruin your day.

Congratulations on a nice Henry Rifle.

With the 45-70Govt I started reloading right
away. The 45-70 is so easy to reload for,
it’s not like you need to reload hundreds
of rounds in one sitting.

A 45/70 GOVT Lee Loader in the red plastic
box SKU: 90264 is all that needed to get
started.

My go to 45-70Govt. is 300gr Lead
bullet (Oregon Trail) / a bag of Starline
Brass / Large Rifle Primer / IMR4198
35.8grs (1700fps?) / Medium roll crimp bullet.

I have never used Commercial Loaded Ammo
so I can’t comment on that.

The Best to you and your Endeavors

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I have a .45/70 and I don’t reload. I get the HSM Cowboy Loads (405 @ 1300) and all is good. Sometimes you have to order them online.

Mine isn’t a high volume gun. Its a Trapdoor carbine and I only shoot it once in a while.

I did buy a Lee Loader for it so I may give it a go once my current stash is depleted.

The HSM loads suit me and my 144 year old gun just fine.

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Rule of law, not a man.

An enormous number of Buffalo were felled using trap door Springfields, black powder and lead bullets. No one needs gee-whiz loads in a .45-70 so long as the distance is not too far. Unless you are going after elephants.

I never reload. Too risky if I do it! Plus I'd have to buy the equipment, store gunpowder, etc. Not my cup of tea. Never has been. YMMV

So, I have a .45-70 Marlin Guide Gun (iron sights only - accurate up to 100 yards but I don't ever plan to shoot that far so it doesn't matter) and the only thing I ever fired out of it was 325 gr FTX LEVERevolution by Hornady. It's available all over the Internet for $50.00. Not cheap but how much do you really plan to use that rifle?

The Hornady rounds were not unpleasant to shoot but that Henry is an expensive range toy. If it were me I'd spend the money on 40 rounds, shoot as few rounds as possible at the range, and kill hogs with the rest. At 50 yards you should be on target and zeroed in ten rounds or less. After that why waste the ammunition on paper targets?

I have a sealed box of 20 rounds of .45-70 from a different company - Collins Cartridge. I've never opened it. Marked $14.50. I'll send you a PM.

As a side note, I have killed hogs at very long distances but that was with a .35 Whelen, customized,Yugo Mauser with a scope. I treat the .45-70 lever gun as a close-up gun (when I was using it - it's been awhile).

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Come and take it!!