Drop In 1911 Grip Safety?

[brucev]

Last week I bought a nice used Rock Island Armory 1911 .45 ACP. The tang on the grip safety is a bit sharp and cuts the skin of my hand. Is there a source for a plain simple drop-in grip safety that has a wider tang that will be more comfortable and not so shharp as to cut my and when firing the pistol?

[venomballistics]

if there were a drop in ... I would not want it.
1911's are best with hand fitted parts, especially in the trigger group area where the grip safety does its thing.
do a little research .. get some files and some patience ... its not rocket science to fit one

[OKFC05]

Murphy: Drop-in 1911 safeties don't.
Corollary: If it does, it isn't safe.

[armadillo]

I just went through this myself. Most aftermarket "beaver-tail" 1911 grip safetys require the frame to be modified (ground down).

I found one made by Wilson that they called a "drop-in," but I had it fitted by a gunsmith just to be sure. You have to use a Commander style (round) hammer with it.

[akviper]

FWIW, I fit the Wilson drop in to a couple of my Colts. They do not have any unsightly gaps and do not require frame modification. The engagement surface must be fitted to the sear and is not hard to do if you read the directions and take your time filing just a bit at a time and trying the fit before taking more off. Personally, I prefer the Wilson drop in for comfort and I can return the gun to it's original configuration if I want to.

[Kanewpadle]

Originally Posted by brucev

Last week I bought a nice used Rock Island Armory 1911 .45 ACP. The tang on the grip safety is a bit sharp and cuts the skin of my hand. Is there a source for a plain simple drop-in grip safety that has a wider tang that will be more comfortable and not so shharp as to cut my and when firing the pistol?

Maybe a pic of the gun and the problem area would help?

[Bat Guano]

I'd just break/melt/round the offending edges until they no longer bother you. Then hit them with some cold blue or have a gunsmith throw them in the bluing tank. Or leave them with shiny edges. If the pistol is used a lot it'll show the same pattern of blue wear eventually anyway.

Someone once said that a pistol or revolver should not have any more sharp edges than a used bar of soap. I agree.

[JcMack]

Originally Posted by Bat Guano

I'd just break/melt/round the offending edges until they no longer bother you. Then hit them with some cold blue or have a gunsmith throw them in the bluing tank. Or leave them with shiny edges. If the pistol is used a lot it'll show the same pattern of blue wear eventually anyway.

Someone once said that a pistol or revolver should not have any more sharp edges than a used bar of soap. I agree.

That's the best approach. Small file/cold blue.

[venomballistics]

Originally Posted by Bat Guano

I'd just break/melt/round the offending edges until they no longer bother you. Then hit them with some cold blue or have a gunsmith throw them in the bluing tank. Or leave them with shiny edges. If the pistol is used a lot it'll show the same pattern of blue wear eventually anyway.

Someone once said that a pistol or revolver should not have any more sharp edges than a used bar of soap. I agree.

I ended up doing a good bit of this sort of work on my springfield mil specs frame. out of the box in heavy fire sessions it left its mark in the web of my hand that lasted for months .. Ive only just now realized it disappeared. a little work with files, tight rolls of 400 grit sandpaper and a little lovin from a dremel tool with a buffing wheel and its become hazardous at only the proper end

[PattonTime]

I found a few bucks spent on Wilson "drop in" parts made me like this gun more.
I now use it with a Kimber 22 Conversion on it exclusively but do appreciate the better trigger, hammer, and grip safety.
YMMV

[681ismyfavorite]

jeweler's file and birchwood casey's.