DIY 1911 Trigger job. First attempt...

Two weeks ago I bought a new 1911 EGW trigger "set". Hammer, sear, disconnector and trigger. Locally I obtained an EZE-LAP fine hone and I ordered an Ed Brown 1911 sear jig and Arkansas stone from Brownells online.

The idea was to see if I could improve on my 1911 triggers, all of which are currently in the 4-6 Ib trigger pull range, without resorting to expensive gunsmithing.

While waiting for the jig and stone to arrive, I used the hone to smooth out the flats on the hammer, disconnector and sear flat sides. I also polished up the trigger bow both inside and out and the angled flats of the disconnector.

On Monday the stone and jig arrived in the post, but I did not have a spare 1911 sear pin, so I ordered one locally and used the stone, hone and jig spacer gauge to work on the hammer hooks. Today the sear pin arrived, so after work I sat down and spent a few minutes on the primary and secondary sear angles, first with the stone followed up with the hone. I made sure not to take too much of the material off, particularly the secondary angle, as I did not want too light a trigger.

After an early dinner I headed out to my shed where I stripped down my Kimber Stainless II 9mm. The original trigger had been set to the gun with the set screw, so rather than change it for the new non-adjustable trigger I spent a bit more time with the hone polishing the trigger bow.

Putting the pistol back together I found that while the trigger weight is a bit heavier than some competition guns I have tried this year, it was certainly a lot lighter than it had been beforehand. I estimate the trigger pull between 3 and 3 1/2 Ib, and very crisp.

To try it out I then set up my iTarget laser set which had also recently arrived. After a few practice runs I ended up shooting the attached 10 shot string at an "across room" distance of 4 long paces, about 4 meters/12 feet.

These were shot using the "bullseye" (free) setting on the iTarget app. I have purchased the seperate "quick draw" option to the app but I was more interested in evaluating the trigger pull and getting used both the the trigger weight and the iTarget system. The "Quick Draw" option will be explored over the weekend.

98/100 was not too shabby I thought.

Over the next few days I'll polish up the parts I removed from the Kimber, which has fired only about 600-750 rounds from new, and which are destined to go into my Springfield .45. The Springfield parts, except the trigger, were replaced at the beginning of the year, and while they have fired 1500-2000 rounds they will still be good enough to go into my spare Norinco Ranger, which has the worst trigger of the three.

Best off all if I screw up something I will still have the current parts, so no damage done.

Interesting post. Tools are always a good investment.

Congrats on your first bout with trigger work. You should not have to do much of anything like polishing internals on a 1911. It 's not like doing revolver work.

Personally, I don't see what if anything can be gleaned from "accuracy" testing of any type at a distance of 4 meters.

Bruce

BruceM said:

Congrats on your first bout with trigger work. You should not have to do much of anything like polishing internals on a 1911. It 's not like doing revolver work.

Personally, I don't see what if anything can be gleaned from "accuracy" testing of any type at a distance of 4 meters.

Bruce

Click to expand...

Normally I’d agree with your 4 meter comments, but the target is scaled down to represent a greater distance. And the laser ‘hits’ are only about 2 mm in diameter while that 10 ring is under 20 mm (3/4”). That transposes to 3 1/2” at 16 meters (abt 17 1/2 yards), handheld indoors and in uneven light. It is a bit harder than it first seems.

I do a reasonable amount of training on a simulator for work and the way things are scaled it is almost easier shooting full sized targets on a live range at 15 meters and beyond.

Although I will admit that there is no recoil to worry about.

Kiwi cop said:

Two weeks ago I bought a new 1911 EGW trigger "set". Hammer, sear, disconnector and trigger. Locally I obtained an EZE-LAP fine hone and I ordered an Ed Brown 1911 sear jig and Arkansas stone from Brownells online.

The idea was to see if I could improve on my 1911 triggers, all of which are currently in the 4-6 Ib trigger pull range, without resorting to expensive gunsmithing.

While waiting for the jig and stone to arrive, I used the hone to smooth out the flats on the hammer, disconnector and sear flat sides. I also polished up the trigger bow both inside and out and the angled flats of the disconnector.

On Monday the stone and jig arrived in the post, but I did not have a spare 1911 sear pin, so I ordered one locally and used the stone, hone and jig spacer gauge to work on the hammer hooks. Today the sear pin arrived, so after work I sat down and spent a few minutes on the primary and secondary sear angles, first with the stone followed up with the hone. I made sure not to take too much of the material off, particularly the secondary angle, as I did not want too light a trigger.

After an early dinner I headed out to my shed where I stripped down my Kimber Stainless II 9mm. The original trigger had been set to the gun with the set screw, so rather than change it for the new non-adjustable trigger I spent a bit more time with the hone polishing the trigger bow.

Putting the pistol back together I found that while the trigger weight is a bit heavier than some competition guns I have tried this year, it was certainly a lot lighter than it had been beforehand. I estimate the trigger pull between 3 and 3 1/2 Ib, and very crisp.

To try it out I then set up my iTarget laser set which had also recently arrived. After a few practice runs I ended up shooting the attached 10 shot string at an "across room" distance of 4 long paces, about 4 meters/12 feet.

These were shot using the "bullseye" (free) setting on the iTarget app. I have purchased the seperate "quick draw" option to the app but I was more interested in evaluating the trigger pull and getting used both the the trigger weight and the iTarget system. The "Quick Draw" option will be explored over the weekend.

98/100 was not too shabby I thought.

Over the next few days I'll polish up the parts I removed from the Kimber, which has fired only about 600-750 rounds from new, and which are destined to go into my Springfield .45. The Springfield parts, except the trigger, were replaced at the beginning of the year, and while they have fired 1500-2000 rounds they will still be good enough to go into my spare Norinco Ranger, which has the worst trigger of the three.

Best off all if I screw up something I will still have the current parts, so no damage done.

Click to expand...

Great post overall, but your comment on the secondary sear angle being somehow tied to trigger pull weight leaves me doubting your understanding of the mechanics of the 1911 trigger.

Just a little sear spring work can go a long way. Dress it with some fine-grit sandpaper, clean it, and then some very gentle adjustment makes a big difference.

Wise_A said:

Just a little sear spring work can go a long way. Dress it with some fine-grit sandpaper, clean it, and then some very gentle adjustment makes a big difference.

Click to expand...

No need to hone anything. A bit of work on the sear spring (straightening) and cut a coil off of the main spring will get you a very decent trigger pull (about 3 - 3.5 lbs.). Honing or stoning can ruin parts very easily. If you get an angle off the trigger will not work.

1911 trigger work is addictive,you will keep changing and working to get that perfect trigger!

Congratulations having a great trigger is a HUGE part of making shooting as enjoyable as possible. It's expensive to use a gunsmith and I've rarely bought a gun from the factory that had an excellent trigger.

Great job - that's how you learn. The 1911 is a relatively straight forward affair and the Ed Brown Jig Kit is well worth the money if you plan on future 1911's. Each job will get easier and better too.

An extra fine set of Arkansas Stones in size 3/16 x 3/16 x 3" and / or 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" are also a good thing to have when working on guns. Check out Dan's below. They have good quality stones and honing oil. They are excellent for de-burring Trigger Channels in your 1911's. Not just for 1911's but for any gun and general GS work. I much prefer using Arkansas Stones for gun smithing - they cut slower so there is less of a chance to go to far and they cut much smoother than files. Plus, good quality stones are truly square for honing right angles. I use mine on all firearms. When ordering (if you do) I'd get a few of each since once you drop them they will crack. You can save the small pieces for other things, but it's nice to have the 3" lengths and they are small and brittle - just a heads up.

Arkansas Files - Dan's Whetstone

I have numerous 1911 gunsmithing resources, including many videos by AGI and Wilson Combat, along with the Jerry K. shop manuals. If you are just beginning, I would recommend seeking out resources such as these. PM me if you want. The worst thing a person can do is to start tinkering on a gun and making changes without fully understanding the action and design first.

For stones, I recommend getting the Spyderco 4pc ceramic file set. They will not degrade or round the edges like regular stones, and they are a lot cheaper, $45 for the 4pc set on Amazon when I purchased. Technology has changed things and I no longer use Arkansas or India stones that much anymore. Once you start really putting the stones to use, you will see what I mean about degradation.

Just one comment. For me personally, I will not carry any firearm with a trigger pull less than 4 1/2 - 5 lbs. The danger of an accidental discharge under stress is too great. In fact, 3 1/2 lbs is too light to be usable in NRA Bullseye competition. For all of you that feel competent with 3 or 3 1/2 lb triggers I applaud you, just be careful.

These particular ceramic stones sold by Brownells are very high quality. They have precision ground sides and very sharp 90 degree corners. They are perfect for use with jigs, are the proper length, and give a very clean, highly polished mirror finish on engagement surfaces. The black stone is medium fine and the white is extra fine. A great investment, and if properly cared for, will last a long, long time.

BROWNELLS 6" X 1/2" X 1/2" CERAMIC STONES | Brownells

Actually a 3 1/2lb trigger is legal in NRA 2700 as long as it's a 45 . It must however be able to pickup a 3 1/2lb weight without the hammer falling . 4 1/2lbs for EIC hardball . Personally I'd scrap or trade off the Kimber internals .

Buy a trigger pull gauge rather than guessing.

For safety and reliability, the springs should be at factory specs.

D Brown said:

Great post overall, but your comment on the secondary sear angle being somehow tied to trigger pull weight leaves me doubting your understanding of the mechanics of the 1911 trigger.

Click to expand...

The secondary angle itself does not effect the trigger weight. The secondary angle reduces trigger creep. Taking too much material off the sear with the secondary angle however reduces the remaining surface area of the sear and the contact the sear has with the hammer. The less contact between the sear and the trigger will effect trigger weight. Take off too much off with the secondary angle and the trigger becomes unsafe due to insufficient surface area contact between the sear and trigger hooks.

AJ said:

No need to hone anything. A bit of work on the sear spring (straightening) and cut a coil off of the main spring will get you a very decent trigger pull (about 3 - 3.5 lbs.). Honing or stoning can ruin parts very easily. If you get an angle off the trigger will not work.

Click to expand...

Straighten the sear spring too much and there is insufficient pressure on the sear which can lead to slam firing. I know. It has happened to me. The difference between lightening the trigger by pulling on the spring and a slam fire is minimal.

All of my sear springs are fitted with the disconnector and sear leaves left as factory. I may add some tension to the grip safety leaf by bending it slightly outwards if I feel it is a bit light. (I like a very positive grip safety pressure, None of this "just touching the grip moves the safety lever" stuff for me).

Cutting spring coils too has pitfalls. Springs need to be a certain length and tension to work correctly. Cut the coils and you reduce both this length and tension. If you must change spring tension then fit a weaker powered spring. I have fitted Wollf ribbed main springs and 12/13 Ib trigger return springs to my S&W revolvers. I would never bend or cut these or any other spring on a gun.

My pistols are for range use only. For a carry gun there can be some very serious liability issues of springs are cut or bent away from factory specs if it is used is a defensive shooting. For any carry pistol it should be either factory or have work performed by a competent and preferably recognised gunsmith.

H Richard said:

Just one comment. For me personally, I will not carry any firearm with a trigger pull less than 4 1/2 - 5 lbs. The danger of an accidental discharge under stress is too great. In fact, 3 1/2 lbs is too light to be usable in NRA Bullseye competition. For all of you that feel competent with 3 or 3 1/2 lb triggers I applaud you, just be careful.

Click to expand...

For a carry gun I would agree that 4 1/2 - 5 Ib is desirable. That is what Kimber advertise the Stainless Target II as having from the factory. Were it to be a carry gun I would have left it alone.

I live in a jurisdiction where carry for defence is not allowed. Outside of my work I am only allowed to shoot pistols on an approved target range either in practice or competition.

Some of the 1911's and Shadow (CZ clones) I have tried over the past year have triggers as low as 2 Ib. One competitor at our recent IPSC Nationals had sandpapered his 1911 sear and trigger to the point that en exceedingly light pull, hardly more than a touch, allowed the hammer to fall. Personally I didn't like it but he, and a few others, see no problems with triggers this light on their pistols.

Each to their own preferences.

Quote:


Originally Posted by D Brown View Post

Great post overall, but your comment on the secondary sear angle being somehow tied to trigger pull weight leaves me doubting your understanding of the mechanics of the 1911 trigger.

Kiwi cop said:

The secondary angle itself does not effect the trigger weight. The secondary angle reduces trigger creep. Taking too much material off the sear with the secondary angle however reduces the remaining surface area of the sear and the contact the sear has with the hammer. The less contact between the sear and the trigger will effect trigger weight. Take off too much off with the secondary angle and the trigger becomes unsafe due to insufficient surface area contact between the sear and trigger hooks.

Click to expand...

Nope: Still not right. The secondary sear angle is cut to clear the sear notch on the hammer and prevent damage to that critical surface.