Lansky knife sharpening systems

I am sure that forum members are familiar with using this system and I am considering buying one. How well do they work and do you recommend them? Any issues with particular knives (e.g. small pocket knives). Which system do you suggest.

I’ve used one since the early 1980s. They work great for shorter blades, like 5” or less. I use mine mostly for broadheads, specifically two blade broadheads and replaceable broad head blades that are flat with no bend in them. Key is to clamp the blade very tight so it does not move. I use the medium, fine and extra fine stones.
I’ve tried other sharpeners including the Work Sharp Ken Onion. I found it nearly useless and tossed it.

The Lansky system works Ok but there are better options although they are more expensive as well. One if the problems with the Lansky system is that it doesn't work very well with very small pocket knives and large kitchen knives.

The KME system is a bit better because it has a better more stabile base and has a small clamp holder for small pocket knives.

For the most part I sharpen most of my knives freehand using Arkansas Stones but the trick there is not to let them get really dull. This method takes a lot of practice and involves a learning curve, practice and muscle memory. After you master it, it is easy, quick, inexpensive and fun.

The Lansky system is one of the least expensive out there, does an OK job but has its limitations. There are much better (and more expensive) systems out there that are way more accurate, consistent and easier but I don't know if you want to shell out $400, $500, $600 + dollars. The Lansky is a basic simple system that will sharpen knives but again, the KME is much better IMHO. While basically the same concept, it's much sturdier and consistent.

I used the Lansky kit back in the 90s. It's been a while, but I don't recall having any issues with it.

For several years now I've been using a Spyderco Sharpmaker with good results.

I've had a Lansky system for about 30 years and haven't used it in at least 20. It works but is way too fussy with the rods and angle bracket. I much prefer the Work Sharp Knife and Tool sharpener but my everyday go to is a diamond stick and a sharpening steel. My knives don't get dull dull and a few strokes on a diamond stick will make them shaving sharp. I use a grinder with a flappy disc for mower blades and axes.

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The Lansky product works very well for many uses. Personally, I have gotten away from the "systems" and "gimmicks", back to good stones and a patient approach.

The two essential elements that must be mastered are:

1: Angle of the edge, and this depends on the blade design and uses. Hollow-ground and sabre-ground require different approaches, and hatchets are different than skinning knives.

2: Major differences between grinding an edge and polishing an edge to perfection. A medium-coarse stone works very well for establishing an angle for the finished edge, or for removing minor nicks or other damages. A soft Arkansas stone, properly used, will develop a useful edge. The hard Arkansas stone will polish the edge to near perfection (as much as the steel alloy in play allows).

Carbon steel alloys are usually easier to work to a satisfactory result than most of the stainless alloys seen in modern sporting knives. Either one requires a patient approach to build the edge properly and polish it to the best possible result. There is no substitute for taking your time and paying attention to proper blade angle and working toward the desired result (as compared to trying to force it to happen). Maintaining the proper angle and polishing (rather than grinding) is where the Lansky and other tools provide good service.

For kitchen knives and my usual pocket knives I rely on a very fine Westhoff diamond steel and crock sticks. Very usable edges on just about any good blade, but not comparable to a good razor edge. Suitable for most purposes, quick and easy to use (20 or 30 seconds from annoyingly dull to a useful edge).

For the maximum in a finished blade I rely on good Arkansas stones; soft Wa****a (usually white) for general use, medium (frequently pink) for a nice finished edge, and hard (black) for finishing an edge to the standards required by old-time barbers for shaving.

Leather strops were common many years ago, but seldom seen today. A good substitute can be made using a 2" strip of vegetable-tanned cowhide cemented down on a block of wood, then rubbed with fine (red) jewelers rouge (polishing compound). Just another exercise in patiently polishing the edge to perfection, constantly maintaining the correct blade angle, and taking the time to achieve the finest result.

Very shallow edge angles result in a very thin piece of steel at the edge, and this can be easily damaged. Also, heavy pressure applied to a shallow edge can cause the steel to roll away from the pressure applied, and this can reduce cutting efficiency. Chefs and others relying on cutting implements will use a hardened steel rod to "reset" the edge to the correct angle. Sharpening steels have no other use (although I do own steels impregnated with fine diamond crystals useful for medium sharpening uses).

Old friend of mine spent many years working as a meat cutter in a packing plant. All of their knives were maintained using a belt sander with 400-grit sanding belts. Workers on the cutting line carried several knives in their apron pockets, then dropped them in buckets when they were too dull to continue, and the knife sharpener guy picked up the buckets and resharpened the edges for continued use (until all the steel was gone, then they were scrapped).

Not quite rocket science, if you know what I'm getting at.

The major thing most of these kits do is keep the blade at the same angle as it moves on the stone. I have not used a Stone stone in years. I use good diamond "stones" They will last forever if you clean them. YOU can learn to keep the angle and once that is done the rest is easy. I start coarse and work up. 300, 600 and finish with a 1200. You can get a straight t high carbon blade sharper than 1200, but why, it will not hold it that sharp if you use it. You can shave hare at 600 grit. I also have a board with a heavy piece of leather that I rub jewelers rouge on. This will polish the edge a bit. In my shop I use a 2x72 grinder with a slack belt up to 1200 grit and then go to a leather belt with rouge. Once again it is all about holding the angle. On belts you will see a very fine feather of steel develop on the edge, once you have that completely down the edge, go to the rouge and polish one side then the other until the feather is gone. Using a slack belt you will get a slightly convex edge. It is a bit stronger and longer lasting than a true bevel, but not quite as good as cutting. But, your probably not going to shave your beard daily with it anyway. The little mini belts look like they wold work very well, but with belts you MUST, be careful of heat, once the edge is near sharp, it is very easy to get it to hot and take the temper out of the edge of the blade. If it turns blue right on the edge that steel has gone over 400f and will have lost its hardness. Make you pass quickly, dunk the blade, make your next pass, dunk. The cardboard wheels that you put on a bench grinder and coat with carbide work good to, Once again it is all about the angle of the edge on the wheel and NOT getting the edge hot, the second wheel gets rouge for polishing

Got to have some knife pictures here

Like df06 I've been using the Lansky system since the 80's. Unless the blade is very long or very narrow they work great. I admire the fellows who can beat them free hand but I am not one of them. I suspect you would be quite pleased with a Lansky.

Ed

Have owned and used one for years.
Like already reported, best for medium length blades.
Literally runs out of the holder if the blade too long.
Way back now, went to Big Time Knife in Vegas.
Was stationed there at the time.
Lansky had a table and was sharpening and selling like crazy!
I told him that I just got one your sharpeners. And I got it from him.
He asked my name, says I remember you!
I still have the sharpener in the original box.
My address is hand written.

LoboGunLeather said:

Leather strops were common many years ago, but seldom seen today. A good substitute can be made using a 2" strip of vegetable-tanned cowhide cemented down on a block of wood, then rubbed with fine (red) jewelers rouge (polishing compound). Just another exercise in patiently polishing the edge to perfection, constantly maintaining the correct blade angle, and taking the time to achieve the finest result.

Click to expand...

FWIW, I have a pre-loaded, commercially-made stropping block that I bought some years ago. I use it after sharpening my knives. It does make for a nice edge. Using my Sharpmaker and stropping block, I've gotten edges that will pop hairs.

I've had one for years. For awhile I used it as intended. But I seemed to spend as much time fiddling with the clamps and rods and stand as I did actually sharpening. So, I just held the stones in my hand and used them as a small, narrow stone. Did that for 10 or more years. Finally got a bench stone set up. One of the tri stone kits. Works great and it gets my hand out of the way. Just my experience.

Here's a stupid question:

Are these sharpening systems anything like the sharpeners built into electric can openers of the 1970's? My dad opened it up and took the sharpening stones out. It butchered the blades and he didn't want it used on any of his knives.

I just use a stone, but I find it is difficult to get a really sharp edge. I find curved edges a lot more difficult than straight.

I have owned and used Lansky sharpeners for years, and in the past, I got mixed results.

I discovered a technique a few years ago that has resulted in 100% success when using the Lansky system, but my technique only works if the knife being sharpened has a spine or ricasso with parallel sides.

Assuming you want to try this, here's what I do.

Adjust the Lansky clamp using the main screw and thumb screws so that the clamping surfaces are opened to the same width as the spine or ricasso of your knife. This doesn't have to be super exact, eyeball accurate will do fine. With the clamp adjusted, attach to the spine or ricasso and go to town with the stones.

If you got your adjustments close to parallel, you'll end up with an evenly ground edge on both sides of the blade, and thus a very sharp knife.

Best of luck!

I have given up using the Lansky and many other types of sharpeners and stones for sharpening things. I am generally pretty mechanically handy BUT that does not translate into sharpening things. I can take a marginally sharp knife and within a few strokes turn it into a completely kid safe toy. A man's got to know his limitations.

I purchased my Lansky sharpening system nigh on 40 years ago.

It has served me well.

I championed it's use early on because I didn't want to spend my money trying out all the gadgets and widgets of the period.

So, I manufactured a couple of pieces of stainless rod into a 'holder' to place in my vice.

This way you can keep the knife indexed to you as you stroke it and won't fatigue your hand by hanging onto the blade clamp to secure the knife.

I milled the flats on one end to place in the jaws of the vice.
I turned down the other end to place the knife clamp on it's pivoting axis.

Works like a charm.

The whetstones pictured are very serviceable, but, I kinda got away from them years back.

Fortunately those were my first knife sharpening stone purchases as it afforded me the learning curve one needs to do it all manually. Ha.

I also have a couple of fists full of 'stone files'. Soft, medium, and, hard Arkansas.

I use those frequently for everything else. Sharpening, polishing, and, fitting.

I will always have my Lansky's.

If you wear out a stone they used to replace them free. Haven't experienced that in a few years.

Oh, and the Lansky really does have a pretty good reach on the longer blades.

What you see in the pictures is my original clamp.

I modified it a number of years ago.

All I did was mill the 'pinch' points on the leading edge a bit deeper for a better engagement on stabilizing the blade.

enjoy,

bdGreen

Tap on image to enlarge.

This is the “system” that I’ve always used.
It’s even therapeutic

I envy the folks who have the patience and skill to perfect the knife sharpening business with stones and straps. Every time I tried, the knife always came out sharp enough to cut warm butter,,, sometimes. Enter the Work Sharp and I couldn't be happier. Makes me look like a knife sharpening wizard in front of my wife and clueless friends. At least I can open an envelope with one cut now.

I think the Work Sharp is a good product. Handy with axes, machetes and other things that are large and it does quick work on knives.

Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener. About the size of a large harmonica, it is easy to keep handy. Two diamond plates, a ceramic rod and a small leather stropping patch. I can get most of my knives shaving hair with no messing around with set up.

I have one of the Loray sharpening kits, which I think may have been the predecessor to the Lansky kits. It came in a little brown plastic box with 3 different grit stones.
It works like a charm. I used it to put a razor edge on my S&W Survival knife and Schrade Sharp Finger hunting knives,