Just acquired a 'vintage' Marlin/Glenfield Model 20

I came across this old Marlin/Glenfield Model 20 at my buddy's sporting goods shop. 'As is' with no magazine.

Since there is no serial number on it, it's a pre-1968. Per the barrel stampings (EJ), it was manufactured in May of 1966. It's in 95+% condition.

Very few minor nicks in the stock, and zero rust anywhere. It is in 100% original condition.



Finding a mag was a bit of a task since they have all been discontinued a while ago, and the ones on e-bay were going for anywhere between $75+ (used), and $150.00 new in package! Fortunately, one of my friends just happened to have a brand new magazine, in the package. I got for $25.00.

Added a Bushnell Prime 3.5-10x36AO scope and Warne rings.

Zeroed it in yesterday with some pretty old Remington Gold Bullet HP's. I have a 1 gallon zip-lock baggie full of them so I figured I'd use some up.

Bore sighted it at 12 yards. First shot was pretty darn close.
Made a few adjustments and moved the target out to 50 yards.


It didn't do too shabby at 50 yards with old ammo (and a terrible trigger).


I'm pretty happy with the over-all performance, and condition of the rifle.

Marlins shoot in the good-amazing range depending upon condition, models and features. The triggers are hit or miss sometimes from the factory. Most of mine be have respectable enough triggers that it hasn't pushed me to modify. YMMV. You can always smooth out the trigger with some careful polishing.

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dmthomp32 said:

Marlins shoot in the good-amazing range depending upon condition, models and features

Click to expand...

I'll get back at it in a few days and try some different ammo. I have a bunch to choose from so I'll just see what it likes best. I'm not going to bother messing with the trigger. I want to leave this old timer in it's original condition.

Nice accurate rifles as a general rule.
The Glenfield 20 was the same rifle as the Marlin 80.
The only difference was those little things that the slightly less expensive Glenfield line got than the Marlin branded rifle. The biggest being a 'hardwood stock' off the Glenfield line instead of American Walnut.

Those 7rd magazines had stayed the same on that rifle from when the Model 80 style action had first entered production at Marlin in the 1930's.
The rifle was sold under the 'Ranger' brand pre-WW2 as well.

Sounds like the mags are getting pricey! The last ones I bought were in the $12/15 range.
My brother has an older M80 and lost one of them so I made an extra latch system on the bottom with a flush sliding button that engages the mag on the spine as well as using the factory latch.
About the only things that were problems in that design were the ejector and the cartridge guide spring.

The ejector is a simple piece of spring wire that is bent to shape and attached to the bottom of the action held in place by the stud on the bottom of the action that the TD screw attaches to.
The ejector 'spring wire' is bent so as to come upward and then point forwward and ride in the channel in the underside of the left side of the bolt. The front point of the spring wire should just barely bare on the bottom of that bolt channel. That point is what strikes the round being extracted by the bolt and flicks it out of the gun.

Quite often the wire gets bent downward a bit, usually from single loading the rifle w/o the magazine in place. Or from simple handling or cleaning it and not realizing it's there or where it needs to be in place.
The tip being out of place will allow the bolt to extract the round, but there'll be nothing there to kick the rd out of the rifle.
Simply and carefully lift the wire up with a needle nose or even a small screw driver and carefully reallign it back into position.

The cartridge guide spring sits right over the chamber in a recess betw the barrel and the frame.
Only the slightly L shaped tip shows when assembled and it's duty is to deflect the nose of the round being chambered downward slightly so it chambers smoothly and doesn't smash into the bbl itself.

The spring can get deformed if played with trying to improve something that doesn't need improving. Sometimes they get pushed downward a bit and then closing the bolt really flattens them out for good.
You have to take the bbl off of the recv'r to replace it. Luckily the assembly is just pinned together . But they are also quite a close fit. We used to have a small hand wheel press to push the bbl from the frame.

The M39 also used the same cartridge guide spring. They last longer in the 39 as people can't get in there to 'adjust' them I guess.

Any feed adjustments need to be done on the magazine generally.

Also, leave that one-piece snap-into-place extractor alone. Getting them off and back on can be a chore done for no reason. Plus they can easily bend and break in doing so.

One trick with the Model 80,,if the bolt is out of the rifle and then Uncocks itself,,you can't place it back into the rifle untill you re-cock the stricker.
There's nothing to really get a hold of to do so. Pliers and other sorts of things usually show the methods used.
But a simple way is to reverse the uncocked bolt and place the bolt shroud end into the back of the action with the cocking pin inserted into the cut out in the frame.
You can do this as the bolt shroud/cocking piece is the same shape and dia as the bolt body (*on most of the same models of this rifle, some later versions have probably changed)
It'll enter the frame about an inch or so.
Now simply lift upwards on the bolt handle and the rifle bolt is (re) cocked. Take the bolt out , reverse and re-insert back in the rifle.

This is handy when working on these as you reassemble the bolt in the unfired position, then need to 'cock' it to put it back in the rifle.
Quick, easy and leaves no marks on it.

This also works on some other (not all!) 22 bolt rifles and even some bolt action shotguns of various makes (some Mossbergs for one).

Well, thanks for taking the time to post all of the info 2152hq! Good stuff. So far, it is operating perfectly, Feeds, fires, extracts, and ejects with no issues. I keep all my stuff cleaner than a hounds tooth, so I don't anticipate having any issues. I had the same Mod 20 when I was a kid, along with a Mod 60. Don't recall what happened to either of them. Both were rather inexpensive. Around $40 for the Mod 20 and $65 (w/scope) for the Mod 60. When I saved up enough grass cutting and paper route money I bought a 10-22. Funny how we come 'full circle' after all these years.