Inland MFG M1 Carbine

Just bought this Inland M1 from a local gunshow for 1200 bucks. Finish is at around 60-70% but even. 6.3 million SN range. Receiver and barrel both have Inland stamps. Bore gauged at 2. Stock is an M2. Doesn't appear to have been re-arsenaled, although I am no expert. The flaming bomb is stamped on the trigger guard. Included 1 WWII magazine. What else can you guys tell me about this rifle? I don't know just a whole lot about them, but given the current pricing on Midway and GB I don't think I did too bad.

I cant get the pictures large enough to notice some details, so a lot of the following could change. Overall it looks to me to be a re-arsenal. But keep in mind that with Carbines things can always vary.


My data shows a Nov. 1944 to January 1945 manufacture date.

Rear sight should be milled, or stamped and have inland markings.

Looks like a round bolt which is correct.

Slide (charging handle) looks correct.

Trigger housing is stamped which is not for that period and Inland have milled guards with Inland stamped on the side. Inland did make stamped housings but information is that they did not use them.

Magazine release and safety look correct and original.

Barrel may be correct as Inland barrels in '44-'45 there were some "anomalies" (no date).

Stock is for an M2 and not original to the rifle.

Barrel band with bayonet lug is correct for mid '44 to end of production so it may be original to yours.

Handguard with two rivets would be correct.

Most all Inland parts will be stamped with some designator such as AI, II, I-I, IN,O, OI, IO, and so on. Depending on how comfortable you are with disassembly if you take the rifle apart you should see such identifiers.
 
I'm a big fan of the M1 Carbine and have two myself. ;)
I wouldn't worry about returning it to all original. Just enjoy it for what it is. :D

I will tell you that if you need ammo, accessories or especially extra magazines. Get on-line and order them NOW. I mean IMMEDIATELY TODAY THIS MINUTE! :eek:

Come June 8, Midway USA will be releasing thousands of M1 Carbines for sale that they found in Italy. These rifles are being sold without magazines. :eek: In just a couple of days you can expect the supply of M1 Carbine mags, accessories and ammo to dry up quickly and prices to take a big jump. :mad:
 
One Saturday morning in 1981 I opened the paper and saw an interesting ad in the sports section. I jumped in my VW Squareback and drove straight to the downtown Woolworth store in Houston and selected a pretty decent International Harvester M1 Rifle from the rack of fifty or so rifles they had set up. I had to put it on lay-a-way as I didn't have the entire $175 at that time.

It was in great shape except for the corroded bore. Should have kept that one and rebarreled it.

Sadly, things like that are long gone....the M1's .... Woolworths .... Woolworths selling the M1's....

That sure harkens back for me. Years ago I met up with a dear lady friend who was an avid hunter and shooter. As we were indulging in adult beverages she mentioned that she always wanted to get a WW2 era M1 Garand. I told her that I think I can help you out, as I had been at the Woolworths at one of the local malls. The Woolworths store where I lived had racks of Garands and Swedish Mausers. With that revelation, my friend said "Drink up" and off we went to Woolworths, and she found the Garand rifle she wanted.
 
Restoring an Inland to it's probable configuration is fairly easy, not terribly expensive, and parts are accessible. You may need some original tools or recent facsimiles to do things like pull the front sight in order to replace the bands. Like others I collected carbines at one time. I stopped when all the imports flooded the market. I then sold most of mine including an original paratrooper and an M3 sniper complete with a full working Infrared sniper scope and battery. I still own a few. The very best sourse of complete information on any block or serial of manufacture is The Carbine Club. Members have been documenting original carbines through the use of code sheets for probably 40 years.
Inland parts are everywhere, especially the major ones like trigger housings. By joining the carbine club you would have access to their data sheets. I can tell you that if your round bolt is an Inland, marked with "IO" and often with a 1 two or 3 after the letters, it is probably correct for your serial block. The round bolt is often associated with the M2 development but that isn't necessarily true. The two reasons for it are to slow the cyclic rate of fire and to eliminate a machine cut operation to speed up manufacture. If however the round bolt is marked with other letters i.e. .u. or W etc it is a update replacement. In late '44 Underwood last their contract to build complete carbines and all receivers were transferred to Winchester to complete. They then were to concentrate on building parts. and did. Inland trigger housings are all forged and milled housings and are all marked with Inland on the right rear side. What you need to know is how it was marked in the serial block you have and then you can watch for it. Some are horizontal, some verticle marked and some upside down. All with Inland in a shield outline. Stocks would usually be marked PI or HI although their are other markings. Handguards are marked on the underside flat edges and have similar markings. The list goes on. Good luck. Your type 3 band is the correct type for that serial block but the marking is wrong. It should be some form of PI as should the rear sight which for Inland should always be a milled rear sight. The Q marked front band, if memory serves me correctly, is a subcontractor for Winchester. Inland and Winchester are the only manufacturers who can be correct with a type 3 bayonet band by the way. The rest got those during the post war update program. Also, all original M2 carbines were made by Inland and Winchester during the end of manufacturing at the conclusion of the War and shortly thereafter. Good luck. Parts are around and aren't hard to find.
 
I used to return mixmasters to as manufactured condition a lot back in the 1990's and early 2000's. That time period was prime for doing so because the market was flooded with a lot of re-import carbines at the time and most of them were mixmasters so there was no telling what manufacturers parts were on a given carbine. I would go to gun shows and buy re-import carbines pretty cheap, take them out to my car and see what parts were on it. I always had a lot of spare INLAND parts on hand, so I might pull off a WINCHESTER trigger housing I was needing, or a IBM slide. I'd then replace the removed part from my spare parts and take the gun back into the gun show and re-sell it. Even if I sold it for what I paid for it I still got my desirable parts for free.

By doing the free parts swap I could bring them back to as-manufactured at a reasonable cost and it was great fun. Later I built up a couple of USGI M1 carbines from scratch starting with a barreled receiver. This was also fun, but was NOT economically feasible.

Pictured below are a couple of USGI carbine projects I really enjoyed working on. Top is an INLAND that I built up from scratch on a late war INLAND receiver with original barrel. It is configured exactly as it left the factory in the spring of 1945.

Bottom is an IBM that I was able to bring back to as issued configuration for one that left IBM's factory in 1943. This one took several years to complete.

I was fortunate to be engaged in USGI carbine collecting in what I term as the "golden years" of the 1990's. Carbines were relatively cheap, even by the standards of the day, USGI parts and surplus .30 carbine ammo was plentiful, and there seemed to be lots of carbines available. These days I'll snag up a deal if I run across one, but I feel for those younger folks who are just now getting the USGI carbine bug, it's gotten expensive.

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This is a perfect example of why a “correct” M1 Carbine may not be “original” or even functional if the parts were out of spec or the tolerances stacked the wrong way.


The sad part is a “mix master” that was reimported was probably “correct” in terms of being the same Arsenal refinished parts that were exported.

Some of the Blue Sky imports I saw during that time were rode hard and put away wet and more than a few had stocks that were badly stained with something in between congealed oil and ldried blood. However many of them were in very good to excellent condition and were usually just as functional as they day they were Arsenal refinished and exported. Most of those were exported and then stored against future needs that never developed and were essentially unused by the receiving country (South Korea in this case). They were superb carbines.

Until someone took them out to their car and started swapping parts. Fast forward 20-30 years and the M1 gets a largely undeserved reputation for poor reliability. Let me show you my shocked face.
 
WAR BABY, by Larry Ruth, Hardcover, ISBN 9780889351172 can be expensive. Prices range from $130 to $300.

However, your local library can get it for you (free) through the Interlibrary Loan system.
 
Thank you all so much for the incredible information! One of the many reasons I love this site.

Would it be a fair assumption then to assume that the barrel was an arsenal replacement? Asking because of the missing date code, the Q marked barrel band, and because it still gauged pretty decent.

The seller told me he had taken it out and shot it a fair amount and that it functioned well. Is there anything besides firing malfunctions to look for that indicates "bubba" did a little gunsmithing on this?
 
+1 on just about all carbines being overhauled/rebuilt. Ad a matter of fact, whenever I see "all matching" or any such nonsense I get VERY SUSPICIOUS. Somebody went through a bunch of parts vendors, bet on it.

So I don't need to tell you what I think about their paperwork PROVING it was Omar Bradley's personal issue carbine, and therefore justifying their asking price...
 
I remember the good times

99.00 m38 and m96 swedes, 189.00 m1 carbines, 189.00 no4 Lee Enfields new unfired in the arsenal wrap with matching bayonet, garands less than 400.00. And of course sks carbines 99.00 all day every day. All sold at your local Rose's dept store. Sure, come on back to the stock room and pick the one you want. I remember buying 5 original finish Mosin M44s for 250.00, delivered to my door courtesy of my 03 FFL. 99.00 CZ 52 and 1895 Nagant pistols. Finn Mosins were 119.00.
 
OP....Looks like You got yourself a nice Carbine....I would check for matching wear patterns and replace the Recoil Spring and make sure the Piston moves freely in the gas Cylinder..Clean and lube and You should be good to go.....Stick with good quality ammo and USGI 15 rd. Mags....A good resource on Carbines is The U.S. Caliber .30 Carbines....
 
Thank you all so much for the incredible information! One of the many reasons I love this site.

Would it be a fair assumption then to assume that the barrel was an arsenal replacement? Asking because of the missing date code, the Q marked barrel band, and because it still gauged pretty decent.

The seller told me he had taken it out and shot it a fair amount and that it functioned well. Is there anything besides firing malfunctions to look for that indicates "bubba" did a little gunsmithing on this?


Unless they’ve been abused or have been fired a lot more than normal (such as being in a select fire M2, or spending years in a training unit) most M1 Carbine barrels gauge very well and don’t have the dark bores or pitting more commonly found in 1903s and Garands.

The .30 caliber M1 Carbine cartridge was the first US cartridge to use non corrosive primers and in fact US made .30 carbine ammo has never been corrosive primed. That went a long way toward ensuring most M1 carbines have pretty decent bores.
 
Thank you all so much for the incredible information! One of the many reasons I love this site.

Would it be a fair assumption then to assume that the barrel was an arsenal replacement? Asking because of the missing date code, the Q marked barrel band, and because it still gauged pretty decent.

The seller told me he had taken it out and shot it a fair amount and that it functioned well. Is there anything besides firing malfunctions to look for that indicates "bubba" did a little gunsmithing on this?

Three things point to re-arsenaled. The stamped trigger housing. The undated barrel. Finally finding an untouched carbine is very, very hard.

As Patrick said "Whenever I see "all matching" or any such nonsense I get VERY SUSPICIOUS."

Finally, consider this, you have a great rifle and in the shape it was when last used/issued.
 
Three things point to re-arsenaled. The stamped trigger housing. The undated barrel. Finally finding an untouched carbine is very, very hard.

As Patrick said "Whenever I see "all matching" or any such nonsense I get VERY SUSPICIOUS."

Finally, consider this, you have a great rifle and in the shape it was when last used/issued.

Ironic, isn't it, that "all matching" can automatically trigger the spidey senses in this case.

Once I get the chance I'll take this thing apart and see what other markings I can find.
 
This is a perfect example of why a “correct” M1 Carbine may not be “original” or even functional if the parts were out of spec or the tolerances stacked the wrong way.


The sad part is a “mix master” that was reimported was probably “correct” in terms of being the same Arsenal refinished parts that were exported.

Some of the Blue Sky imports I saw during that time were rode hard and put away wet and more than a few had stocks that were badly stained with something in between congealed oil and ldried blood. However many of them were in very good to excellent condition and were usually just as functional as they day they were Arsenal refinished and exported. Most of those were exported and then stored against future needs that never developed and were essentially unused by the receiving country (South Korea in this case). They were superb carbines.

Until someone took them out to their car and started swapping parts. Fast forward 20-30 years and the M1 gets a largely undeserved reputation for poor reliability. Let me show you my shocked face.

Once it's been arsenal reworked it is no difference to the originality than someone swapping parts in the parking lot.

The M1 carbine was designed with parts swappabilty in mind. If you recall, there were issues with parts compatibility between the manufacturers with M1917's in the Great War. Seems I've read that it was so bad at one point that General Pershing would not accept Winchester made rifles. With so many prime contractors and sub contractors manufacturing parts for carbines it was a major priority for parts compatibility at the time.

My point is, swapping parts on an M1 carbine does not make them less reliable if done correctly, and it's really bolt changing that is of any concern if not properly head spaced.

There was a time I would buy the most beat up looking carbines at gun shows I could find and strip them for parts for resale. Back then I could pickup a beater carbine for $300 - $400 and I have doubled and even tripled my return by parting them out. I found there was a big demand for USGI carbine parts.
 
Well, I wanted to add a "Fine" winchester M1 from the midwayusa sale today, but these things were going fast! I ended up with a "Good to Very Good" with no bayonet lug winchester M1 by the time the dust settled.
 
I bought a new Inland M1 carbine. It arrived -- but it does NOT have the metal rod/post in the buttstock to lace the sling. So I lace it around the buttstock. Kinda weird, but what are the options?
 
I bought a new Inland M1 carbine. It arrived -- but it does NOT have the metal rod/post in the buttstock to lace the sling. So I lace it around the buttstock. Kinda weird, but what are the options?

That metal rod is an oiler. You can find them for $10 or so. That would be my first choice.
 
Once it's been arsenal reworked it is no difference to the originality than someone swapping parts in the parking lot.

The M1 carbine was designed with parts swappabilty in mind. If you recall, there were issues with parts compatibility between the manufacturers with M1917's in the Great War. Seems I've read that it was so bad at one point that General Pershing would not accept Winchester made rifles. With so many prime contractors and sub contractors manufacturing parts for carbines it was a major priority for parts compatibility at the time.

My point is, swapping parts on an M1 carbine does not make them less reliable if done correctly, and it's really bolt changing that is of any concern if not properly head spaced.

There was a time I would buy the most beat up looking carbines at gun shows I could find and strip them for parts for resale. Back then I could pickup a beater carbine for $300 - $400 and I have doubled and even tripled my return by parting them out. I found there was a big demand for USGI carbine parts.

Tell yourself whatever makes you feel good, but you missed my point.

Yes, the day they were made M1 Carbine parts were fully interchangeable, and with very few exceptions rifles assembled from bins of *new* parts would shoot to the required specification.

However M1 carbines got Arsenal refurbished for two reasons - they either didn’t function correctly after years of wear and tear, or they were being brought back to near new specifications before being stored with all parts within at least service limits. Many of those served another war or two and some of those were pretty well worn.

On the other hand, the nicer examples of Arsenal refurbed M1 carbines just saw storage and were in excellent mechanical as well as physical condition. At least until someone started swapping parts on them to get “correct” M1 carbines.

That said your comment on buying a beater carbine for $300-$400 and parting it out places you after the golden age of surplus M1 carbines. We’d buy excellent to near mint condition M1 Carbines for around $200. Beaters were actually rare and would be lucky to bring $100 due to lack of interest. I see similar beater carbines selling today for not much south of a grand.

The fact that you could part out a beater carbine purchased for $300-400 and make make money also demonstrates the prevalence of people trying to assemble “correct” M1 Carbines.

Bless their hearts.
 
I bought a new Inland M1 carbine. It arrived -- but it does NOT have the metal rod/post in the buttstock to lace the sling. So I lace it around the buttstock. Kinda weird, but what are the options?

A #2 pencil cut to the correct length.
 
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My first 30 Carbine was in 73 while on Army pistol team. Team mate got his girlfriend pregnant, Very,Very nice Roc- Ola for $100. After that picked up the early .30 Carbine book by Gibson, picked up every one but IBM in about 6-8 years, being selective on condition.
Young collector here just got a Very Rare Presentation one for $1,300.00 at JAX gun show, he’s a lucky dog as it’s probably a $3-4 K one, maybe more?
 

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