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Inland MFG M1 Carbine

turp_dog

Well-known member
Joined
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Location
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Just bought this Inland M1 from a local gunshow for 1200 bucks. Finish is at around 60-70% but even. 6.3 million SN range. Receiver and barrel both have Inland stamps. Bore gauged at 2. Stock is an M2. Doesn't appear to have been re-arsenaled, although I am no expert. The flaming bomb is stamped on the trigger guard. Included 1 WWII magazine. What else can you guys tell me about this rifle? I don't know just a whole lot about them, but given the current pricing on Midway and GB I don't think I did too bad.

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That might be a bit high. It's not totally original. The trigger housing is stamped/brazed and all Inland housings are milled. It is probably rearsenalled because of the M2 stock and the trigger housing. By the time that was made it is likely that it would have had a 4 rivet handguard, a milled PI marked adjustable rear sight (not a stamped one as yours has). M2's were starting close to that serial and would be marked on the front receiver ring with either a handstamped 1 or 2 after the M. But regardless, if you're happy with it and it shoots good then it was a good choice. You'll have to look in the sling cutout on the left side of the stock for the stamped letters to see if that is an original Inland M2 stock or a Korean War replacement.
 
So there are no markings/stamps in the sling cutout. I assume that means a Korean War replacement?

The rear sight is marked "I.R. CO" with the numbers 7160060 stamped below that.

The barrel band has a "Q" stamped on it as well.
 
Seems that price is about the going rate now.

A year or two back I bought a VERY nice Inland marked 3/44 but with about 15 original mags, a bunch of mag pouches, sling, original bayonet, etc. At that time I thought $1,000 I paid was top of the market but a couple of local older guys who saw it in person offered me more than that.

If something unexpected happens and it becomes worth LESS than you paid (which I seriously doubt) just pass it along to the next generation of shooters in your family.
 
You didnt do too badly at all.

1200 is about the going rate for a nice g.i. carbine these days. The cheapest ive seen in the last two years at retail was 900.00.

Though derided by many, i have always been pleased with the carbines performance. They fill their intended role....an easy to hit with short to medium range defensive weapon....very well.
They also make an excellent farm critter eliminator.
Enjoy.
 
Based on the serial number range, what is the approximate date of manufacture?

The Inland Manufacturing Division of GM made 230,179 carbines in an assigned block from 6219689 to 6449867 from August 1944 through November 44.

Assuming more or less equal production per month, and depending on your perceive serial number, yours would have been made in late September or early October of 1944.
 
Really going for big bucks now. Seems milsurps have taken off like gangbusters the last few years. Nice example you have there.
 
Based on the serial number range, what is the approximate date of manufacture?

Forgive my ignorance on these please but ..... if the date made isn’t stamped on the barrel does that mean it’s been re-barreled? Maybe not all had the date there?
 
The Inland Manufacturing Division of GM made 230,179 carbines in an assigned block from 6219689 to 6449867 from August 1944 through November 44.

Assuming more or less equal production per month, and depending on your perceive serial number, yours would have been made in late September or early October of 1944.

Thanks!

Next question: ad an earlier poster pointed out, there are a few parts (rear sight, trigger housing, and stock) that indicate a reasonable. If I was inclined to return this to original condition by purchasing correct parts, where should I begin looking for those, and would it be worth my.time and money to do that?
 
Forgive my ignorance on these please but ..... if the date made isn’t stamped on the barrel does that mean it’s been re-barreled? Maybe not all had the date there?

Kinda wondered that myself. Hopefully one of the more knowledgeable members here can answer that.
 
90%+ of ALL .30 Carbines were Arsenal overhauled after WWII , period. Various US Arsenals inspected, removed worn or damaged parts, ( every part) and replaced them with WHATEVER PARTS ON HAND. Military did not care about matching manufacture’s parts.These Carbines are “ original” as they were placed in reserve , sold off or sent overseas to other allied countries . Very few original As Manufactured in WWII are around plus many original Carbine manufactures used parts from various manufactures in assembling their Carbines in WWII. War Baby breaks down all the manufactures and what parts they used. Then there are the “ imported .30 Carbines from the countries we gave them to, Korea, Austria and few others. Some of these Carbines are basically “ fence posts” as in very poor condition. Costs to rebuild them is outrageous and one is better off saving until you find a good one.
If interested in .30 Carbines buy the book “ War Baby”, dont count on much online opinions. Buy the book and educate yourself and have excellent reference for the future.
 
The bolt is a round M-2 bolt, instead of the dished or flat M-1 bolt.

It does not have the stupid bayonet lug, that's correct.

Ivan
 
Thanks!

Next question: ad an earlier poster pointed out, there are a few parts (rear sight, trigger housing, and stock) that indicate a reasonable. If I was inclined to return this to original condition by purchasing correct parts, where should I begin looking for those, and would it be worth my.time and money to do that?

Back in the mid 1980s WWII surplus rifles and carbines (M1 Garands, 1903A1, 1903A3, M1 Carbines, M1917 Enflields, Pattern 13 and Pattern 14 Enfields, various number 3, 4 and 5 SMLEs etc. were both abundant and available at very good prices.

With plenty of very good and excellent condition rifles and carbines around a great deal of emphasis was placed on firearms being “correct”, defined as “original as left the factory condition”.

As noted above upwards of 90% of all carbines went through an Arsenal rebuild. Consequently, those unmolested carbines were worth more, but still fairly common, and at the time the odds were good that they were indeed original.

Over the years as supplies of original configuration rifles and carbines dried up, more owners or sellers started mixing parts to assemble “correct” M1 carbines and M1 Garands.

It’s a mixed bag.

Yes, you can shop around for parts and probably find the parts you need in similarly finished and or worn condition to make it look original. But it still isn’t.

Worse, while the parts are “interchangeable” there is a tolerance range for all production parts. That range of tolerances combined with normal wear and service limits, as well as parts on the surplus market that were removed due to excessive wear outside the service limits means it’s pretty easy to put a carbine together that is well out of spec in one or several parameters.

When an Arsenal rebuilt an M1 Carbine or Garand, they disassembled it, removed what was worn beyond limits, reparkerized the serviceable parts and replaced the unserviceable parts with refinished parts on hand out of parts bins. They didn’t care if the parts were “correct” by manufacturer. They did however ensure that the parts on the guns were within acceptable limits, and that the relationships and tolerances between parts were within specification.

As an example, National Match Garands (and M14s) were also assembled from parts selected from bins based on meeting much more precise national match tolerances and specifications. None the less from time to time I’d come across an “all correct” NM marked Garand that the seller would swear was original. Well sure. It’s remotely possible that a handful of NM Garands exited an armorers’ hands with all correct parts, but it’s very unlikely the one in front of you is one of them. The value in an NM Garand is the relationship and tolerances of the parts and the accuracy that results. Mixing those “as left the armorers hands” parts up just to get a rifle with “correct” parts defeats the entire purpose. Worse, some sellers would stamp parts as NM when they were not, and it’s not uncommon to find “NM” stamped on parts that were on fact never NM stamped by the military.

The same logic applies to an M1 Carbine. If you find one today that is all correct in terms of how it originally left the factory the odds are high that it’s still a mix master that left the Arsenal where it was rebuilt as a fully functional M1 Carbine, and was then subsequently further “mixed” to replace non correct parts with correct parts. Since the bubba doing that didn’t have bins full of parts and a bench full of gauges, the odds are extremely high that it won’t be within spec.

In short, if you have an M1 carbine that has been Arsenal rebuilt and functions just fine, just leave it alone.
 
Here some info on Original WWII Production of Inland .30 Carbines. Note OTHER Carbine manufactures parts were used in ORIGINAL Inland Production. This means Original Inland .30 Carbines were so called “ mixmasters”. Again, Buy the book.78EA63FE-9BE8-4523-846B-183C7C1234DC.jpg

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Forgive my ignorance on these please but ..... if the date made isn’t stamped on the barrel does that mean it’s been re-barreled? Maybe not all had the date there?

I've been collecting USGI M1 carbines since the early 1990's and have assembled a humble collection of them. Dealing with USGI carbines is great fun . . . and at times frustrating. I agree with the advice "get a book". I'm no expert, but I have nearly a dozen books on the subject so I have a pretty good reference source.

To answer your question above, the date on the barrel has little to do with the build date of the carbine. The date on the barrel is when the barrel was made, and not all prime contractors dated their barrels, and some manufacturers dated some barrels but not all, and then you have sub-contract barrels, and you have some prime contractors that participated in the "Government Free Barrel Program" where various contractors supplied barrels for other prime contractors.

Here are some examples of what you run against with barrel dating:

INLAND dated all their barrels they used. But INLAND supplied barrels to other contractors that may or may not be dated. (If you see an undated INLAND barrel on an INLAND receiver it's likely a replacement. If you see an undated INLAND barrel on a Quality HARDWARE receiver it's likely original, as would a dated INLAND barrel on a Quality HARDWARE)

WINCHESTER dated barrels early in production, but stopped dating them around serial number 1,030,000. I have both dated and undated Winchester barrels in my collection.

UNDERWOOD dated their barrels, and was probably the most prolific contractor in providing barrels to other contractors.

ROCK-OLA dated barrels until mid 1943 then stopped dating them.

QUALITY HARDWARE didn't make barrels and was a recipient of barrels from other contractors.

SAGANAW S'G' used barrels from UNDERWOOD, INLAND, Buffalo Arms, SAGINAW SG', some dated and some not.

SAGINAW GEAR made their own undated barrels.

IBM made their own barrels some dated, some not, and they shared their barrels with others.

MARLIN ARMS did not make USGI M1 carbines but they made barrels, most undated, that show up on other prime contractors carbines.

So you see, a barrel date may be of significance to a collector, or may not. But an undated barrel may or may not be of significance as well. This is where manufacturers detail from reference books helps, and sometimes even that data is not complete.
 
Back in the mid 1980s WWII surplus rifles and carbines (M1 Garands, 1903A1, 1903A3, M1 Carbines, M1917 Enflields, Pattern 13 and Pattern 14 Enfields, various number 3, 4 and 5 SMLEs etc. were both abundant and available at very good prices. .............

One Saturday morning in 1981 I opened the paper and saw an interesting ad in the sports section. I jumped in my VW Squareback and drove straight to the downtown Woolworth store in Houston and selected a pretty decent International Harvester M1 Rifle from the rack of fifty or so rifles they had set up. I had to put it on lay-a-way as I didn't have the entire $175 at that time.

It was in great shape except for the corroded bore. Should have kept that one and rebarreled it.

Sadly, things like that are long gone....the M1's .... Woolworths .... Woolworths selling the M1's....
 
Thanks!

Next question: ad an earlier poster pointed out, there are a few parts (rear sight, trigger housing, and stock) that indicate a reasonable. If I was inclined to return this to original condition by purchasing correct parts, where should I begin looking for those, and would it be worth my.time and money to do that?

I used to return mixmasters to as manufactured condition a lot back in the 1990's and early 2000's. That time period was prime for doing so because the market was flooded with a lot of re-import carbines at the time and most of them were mixmasters so there was no telling what manufacturers parts were on a given carbine. I would go to gun shows and buy re-import carbines pretty cheap, take them out to my car and see what parts were on it. I always had a lot of spare INLAND parts on hand, so I might pull off a WINCHESTER trigger housing I was needing, or a IBM slide. I'd then replace the removed part from my spare parts and take the gun back into the gun show and re-sell it. Even if I sold it for what I paid for it I still got my desirable parts for free.

By doing the free parts swap I could bring them back to as-manufactured at a reasonable cost and it was great fun. Later I built up a couple of USGI M1 carbines from scratch starting with a barreled receiver. This was also fun, but was NOT economically feasible.

Pictured below are a couple of USGI carbine projects I really enjoyed working on. Top is an INLAND that I built up from scratch on a late war INLAND receiver with original barrel. It is configured exactly as it left the factory in the spring of 1945.

Bottom is an IBM that I was able to bring back to as issued configuration for one that left IBM's factory in 1943. This one took several years to complete.

I was fortunate to be engaged in USGI carbine collecting in what I term as the "golden years" of the 1990's. Carbines were relatively cheap, even by the standards of the day, USGI parts and surplus .30 carbine ammo was plentiful, and there seemed to be lots of carbines available. These days I'll snag up a deal if I run across one, but I feel for those younger folks who are just now getting the USGI carbine bug, it's gotten expensive.

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To answer your question above,

Here are some examples of what you run against with barrel dating:

INLAND dated all their barrels they used. But INLAND supplied barrels to other contractors that may or may not be dated. (If you see an undated INLAND barrel on an INLAND receiver it's likely a replacement. If you see an undated INLAND barrel on a Quality HARDWARE receiver it's likely original, as would a dated INLAND barrel on a Quality HARDWARE)

Thank you!
 
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