Tisas 1911 Bobtail

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Yesterday I went to one of the small, monthly gun shows that are put on in Tulsa (NOT the Wanenmacher show). It usually takes me about 45 minutes to go through once and this time was no different - nothing of interest. But I decided to check out a couple of local gun shops as well.

At the second shop I saw this gun, a Tisas full size 1911 with the now nearly-standard improvements (ambi safety, beavertail grip safety with memory bump, etc.) but it also had a bobtail mainspring housing. I had seen and handled bobtail 1911s before and liked them but they were always more than I wanted to pay. Price on this one? $499! Credit card flies out of my wallet and I'm out the door at $542.

Very well made, smooth operation and just a touch of creep on the trigger that will probably go away with use. I hope to get it out to the range in the next week or two.


*edit* Target pictures from the range added, Posts #11 and 12.

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Interestingly, they also had one with a Commander length slide for $549 but I didn't handle it. When I went to the Tisas website they didn't show the full size configuration pistol but did show the Commander size, and said that it has an aluminum frame. I may have to go back and check it out.
Tisas USA

They also had one of the new Rock Island .22 revolvers, made by Alfa in the Czech Republic. Nine shot with adjustable sights, 4" full-underlug barrel and all steel construction. Very nicely made and solid feeling. I think it was priced at $559.
ROCK ISLAND AL22B AL22 BLUED 9RD 22LR For Sale | Rock Island Armory
 

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I've read good reviews on the Tisas guns. Looks like you picked up a nice one, and I would be interested in a range report.

A local pawn shop I have done a fair amount of business with has had a full size Tisas .45 Regent, stainless with blued (black?) controls, Novak type sights, no bobtail, case and two mags for a couple months now. I keep telling myself I don't need it, but am pretty sure at this point I can talk them down to $450 OTD (it's priced at $499 right now). I'm trying to resist.
 
I really like the look of that finish and the lack of markings on the slide is very attractive to me. I’m not a fan of the current trend of naming and marking all a companies models - such as the Dan Wesson and the Springfield Armory 1911s. Company name / model number / caliber is fine. Nothing else.
 
Interesting. I've never seen or heard of a full sized Tisas with a bobtail grip. Good pickup.

I've got two of the commander sized ones. The 9mm is called a Sting Ray, and comes in a two tone color combo, black and green. It has an aluminum frame, extended beavertail, ambi safety, skeleton trigger and hammer, three dot sights, enlarged and beveled ejection port, and beveled mag well. Came with two 10 round mags.

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I've put a couple hundred rounds through this one, FMJ and HP without any malfunctions. I shoot it a lot better than I'm used to shooting with the guns I've been shooting the last few years.

I liked it so much I went back bought a 45 version. It's the same, but different. The 45 has a steel frame, only comes in black, and has slide serations on the front and rear of the slide. It comes with two eight round mags. Everything else is pretty much the same. If it has a fancy name, I'm not aware of it.

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I've only got about 70 rounds through this one, Federal 230 ball, and 20 185 grain HP's. No problems at all.

Both triggers break around 4.5 pounds, with a little takeup, and a short reset. Recoil is about what you'd expect from a commander sized 9mm and 45. The 9mm sold for about what you paid for yours, the 45 was a little less both at my LGS.
 
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Tisas has been doing a great job on their 1911s. I have their 1911A1 US ARMY and their 10mm coming to me. Hard to beat for the price.

I just had mine out on the bench last night (early Sunday AM.) I also have the 1911A1 US Army. (.45 cal.) I really like the Plain Jane look of it, and the reliability & accuracy even more, even with those invisible sights. My front sight I used my white nail polish on and it helps acquire my target. Somewhere I read that they copied the original almost exact, only they did something to the ramp and some other part(s) which armorers commonly did to make them (the originals) run better. Also they said sometime, maybe WWII, that the military put plastic stocks on like the Tisas has, for quicker/cheaper production, and the sights are the original size & shape. I'm not sure at all if this is true but if it is, some folks' complaints of the cheap plastic are unwarranted. I changed mine to give it a "classy" appearance. I paid about >$225 less than the OP gun, but that one is a nice gun up there. I didn't know of the 10mm, only the 9mm version. I'd be interested in one and I hope you let us know how that 10mm shoots. I have one .40 caliber pistol but no 10mm. My birthday is between The Ides of March and St. Rooky Drinker Day...hmmm.
Thanks for sharing; I like that one's looks. (Post 1)
 
I did make it out to the range early this week and put some rounds through this new Tisas. Range for all targets was 60' and shot from a rest. The 230gr ball was Prvi Partizan "blemished" ammo (not that I can see any reason for these to be blems) and some of my old hoard of CCI Blazer aluminum case ammo with the Speer 200gr JHP "flying ashtray". I did have a couple of early failures to feed with the 230gr ball ammo, but after that it was fine.

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For comparison here is the same ammo from my 1987 Colt Gold Cup.

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An aluminum Commander size and a bobtail. It will come home with me.

Back in 1981, I bought a full-size aluminum 1911 frame & built a .45. This was my duty sidearm for most of the next 18 years.

A couple of years ago, I bought a bobtail jig and altered the frame. I need to get it out and shoot it some.
 
I handled a 10mm a few weeks ago. Been jonesing around whether to get it not.


10mm Auto can be rough on a pistol, at least when loaded to its full potential. Things I would look for when considering a 1911 chambered in 10mm.
1. Bushingless cone barrel. This adds mass to the barrel, which helps delay the unlocking of the breech during recoil.


2. A barrel that also has an integral feed ramp. This adds a little more support around the cartridge case head. Most 10mm brass is made pretty stout in the case head area, but given a choice, I'd prefer more case head support.


3. A flat bottom firing pin retainer. The reduced leverage of the sharper edge on the bottom of the retainer creates a greater force against the hammer as the slide tries to move rearward during the unlocking phase of recoil. This also means you will not have to use a monstrously heavy recoil spring, which can cause battering of the bottom barrel lug, slide stop pin, and the pin hole in the receiver when the slide slams forward.


Are these things absolutely necessary with the 10mm? Colt did not think so, but Colt was not keen on making changes to their firearms to improve durability.
 
10mm Auto can be rough on a pistol, at least when loaded to its full potential. Things I would look for when considering a 1911 chambered in 10mm.
1. Bushingless cone barrel. This adds mass to the barrel, which helps delay the unlocking of the breech during recoil.


2. A barrel that also has an integral feed ramp. This adds a little more support around the cartridge case head. Most 10mm brass is made pretty stout in the case head area, but given a choice, I'd prefer more case head support.


3. A flat bottom firing pin retainer. The reduced leverage of the sharper edge on the bottom of the retainer creates a greater force against the hammer as the slide tries to move rearward during the unlocking phase of recoil. This also means you will not have to use a monstrously heavy recoil spring, which can cause battering of the bottom barrel lug, slide stop pin, and the pin hole in the receiver when the slide slams forward.


Are these things absolutely necessary with the 10mm? Colt did not think so, but Colt was not keen on making changes to their firearms to improve durability.
Same thing my buddy said to me that is why I got the Glock 40 and 29. But these Glocks have no class but they do work fine. I being talked into getting Sig P220SAO in 10mm over the 1911 series which I may end up doing. Also considering a 1006 Smith but the prices are crazy.
 
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