To Tisas Or not to Tisas?

PSA had the TISAS 1911A Stakeout in 38 Super/9mm (2 barrels, 2 mags) in electroless nickel (a matt finish, not shiney like chrome) for $399 before Christmas! The 38 Super mag is an Ed Brown to boot! Machining on mine is perfect inside and out. Even has a titanium firing pin!

Both shoot wonderfully and an aftermarket finish like this is $300 easily!

My 1st TISAS but not my 1st 1911:. I am VERY impressed and totally satisfied.:D

Cheers!

FWIW they are back in stock at PSA but at a slightly higher price. $425 IIRC. Still a deal.
I missed out before Christmas and am trying to get up the dough for one.
I bought a 1911 Service of theirs but haven’t shot it yet.
 
After all the positive reviews and comments, I bought the $299.00 Tisas 1911 Government .45 ACP 5" 7rd Pistol, 1911A1GOVT. I haven't shot it yet but was impressed with the fit and finish, even when PSA says it is cerakote finish. Looks like the price was bumped up twenty bucks. Still a great value.
 
I too have a Stakeout . I bought mainly because you guys talked me into it . $399 for a 1911 with 2 barrels ? It don't take a rocket scientist to think about that . I bought it mostly for the 38Super , I figured even if I had to buy a good barrel I'd still be ahead . I did read on the 1911 forum a member sent his off to have an adjustable put on it , I'm going to follow suit .
 
As someone who used to own one of those Springfield “GI” copies with the Imbel frames, I will just say this. The Tisas is a MUCH better gun and a lot closer to the real military editions.

I own a Tisas ASF .45 and have fired a full 1000 round case of ball through it. ZERO jams. Excellent trigger. Very fine accuracy. For the price? 10/10. It would STILL be a good gun for TWICE the asking price IMHO.

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I don’t have the money for an original GI. This scratches the itch very very nicely.
 
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I too have a Stakeout . I bought mainly because you guys talked me into it . $399 for a 1911 with 2 barrels ? It don't take a rocket scientist to think about that . I bought it mostly for the 38Super , I figured even if I had to buy a good barrel I'd still be ahead . I did read on the 1911 forum a member sent his off to have an adjustable put on it , I'm going to follow suit .

I had a Crimson Trace LaserGrip for the 1911 sitting unused: fits perfectly and compliments the irons very well!

Cheers!

P.S. Good Buy, BTW!:D
 
get a colt 3-4 times as many gunsmiths work on a colt then on a tisas. the top names wont touch a tisas.

I'll stick with Colt myself, but why would a gunsmith not work on a Tisas? Seems like Tisas has a good reputation for quality.
 
get a colt 3-4 times as many gunsmiths work on a colt then on a tisas. the top names wont touch a tisas.

I didn't buy a new 1911 to be worked on, which is why I didn't buy a Colt. I wanted something that worked right out of the box, which is why I prefer Glocks. My commander sized Tisas has been as reliable out of the box as a Glock so I'm not overly concerned if the uppity top names won't work on it.

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My first Tisas was this one. I got the pick the one out of four that had the best combination of tightness and good trigger pull.

Darn near doubled the price by adding real red Cocobolo grips

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took it to the range and I was sold after I shot this group

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shoots well at 25 yards too

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Every time I went to the local gunstore, I had a real hard time not buying a Tisas when they were priced $400 or less.

This is has all the features I want: tall sights, chrome barrel, GI grip safety, added an arched mainspring housing as I am getting to like the arched for one hand shooting.

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I had a RIA blow a case head, because the magazine release held the round too low. The bullet was stuffed in the case during feed. That cracked the coco bolo grips on that pistol, blew the innards of the magazine, rounds included out. After that I realized that strong grips might protect my palms in an over pressure incident, and I was lucky the magazine had a plastic bottom plate and popped off easily, dropping pressures. Since then, I have been fitting 1911's with cheap Chinese ($14.00) double diamond, red laminate G10. G10 is hard and sharp, like a wood rasp, so it is real grippy, and since it is an epoxy laminate, it ought to be orders of magnitude stronger than wood.

tall rear sight with a tall and big front sight

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the more recoil, the greater the flinch!

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The original GI sights were developed for shooting against a black round circle on a paper target.

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If you are shooting on paper, and your aimpoint is a small round circle, thin sights allow hold off against the bull if the windage/elevation is off. Remember, the sights were non adjustable. So the shooter could compensate a left shooting 1911 by holding at 5 O'C, maybe 2 O'C. Large sights, such as I prefer, you cannot pick a point because the sight is so much larger than the bull. As such, the GI sight is better for paper punching, but they are not fast acquisition sights.

One of the things I have noticed, is how firearms and sights have developed in tandem with "Combat Games". Prior to WW1, combat training was shooting on paper targets with round black circles. Sight width was based on the diameter of a round black circle on a piece of paper. But in real life, the Huns never wore on their uniforms black circles over a contrasting background. Any enemy wearing bullseye's would made excellent aimpoints for 1911 users. But it was not to be. Today, you can see so called "Tactical" pistols designed to win quick draw games, but whether the games reflect reality is different issue.

You are in his sights!

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The Tisas models I own are all variations of the basic GI model, the primary variations are sights and safeties. I consider the A1 safety a better safety. They are all reliable, as accurate as I can hold off hand. I only have 45 ACP pistols and 99% of the rounds are 230 round nose bullets.

I recommend the original load used in the 1910 rounds used in the 1910 pistol test trials: a 230 FMJ with 5.0 grains Bullseye for a velocity of 800 fps. If your pistol won't shoot or function with this load, you have a stinker for a firearm.

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I called Tisas about the materials in the pistols. I got two different stories, but each was a European version of 4140 steel. The original GI 1911's, the frame was SAE 1035, something almost unhardenable and similar in composition to rail road spikes. Real cheap stuff. The slide was SAE 1050, I know lawn mower blades made from 1055. Real cheap and tough. These materials are called plain carbon steels and are also very low grade. These were the absolute minimum that would go 5000 or 6000 rounds. Original 1911's were not built to last forever, those that shoot original GI 1911's find the slides crack between 10000 and 20000 rounds. However, something made out of 4140 should last orders of magnitude longer.

I do like the fact the post 2023 Tisas has all forged internal parts, pre 2023 internal parts were MIM, and the forged slide and receiver are hardened then machined. GI 1911's only had the slide nose hardened for two inches, to keep the nose from being knocked off under recoil. I do believe the Tisas slide is only "slightly" hardened as you don't really need knife blade level hardness in this application. Hardness and toughness work against each other. This pistol functions with an impact load, and toughness gives a longer fatigue life than does hardness. All you need to do is harden the steel so it holds up to the pressures of combustion, and keep what toughness you can to allow for a greater fatigue lifetime. A forged 4140 part should not have voids, and the material is just vastly better in all respects to the plain carbon steels used in the GI 1911's. One data point, the Charpy impact energy required to shear 4140 at minus 40 F is probably four times greater than plain carbon steels. Alloys have come a long way since 1900.
 
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If you need another vote, I have 2 government models and echo all the positive comments.

I will note that mine have little to zero throat (leade) and don't appreciate reloads seated even slightly long.
 
I've owned, collected, shot and competed with numerous 1911s for decades: from WWI through current Colts, Kimbers, S&Ws, Paras, Remingtons, Springfields, Dan Wessons, Ed Browns, and modern SIG variants. I like a bargain as much as anyone else, and after reading some reviews, purchased three Tisas 1911s this past year.

I still have two of them. For me they have been a mixed bag, along with a couple of other SDS Imports firearms. I probably would not purchase another, as the guns as delivered don't meet my standards, and their customer service is sub-standard.

First was a Stakeout .45. This pistol has been mostly excellent, shoots very well, excellent machining, completely reliable. Price was right, but it did have some flaws which I corrected, which the later two guns also had, and seems to me to be endemic to these guns:

1. The magazine catch springs were way beyond spec oversprung; I replaced them with a spec spring.
2. The plunger spring, conversely, all had inadequate tension, and the thumb safeties were mush. Again, replaced with a spec sping and correct function restored.

Otherwise pleased with the Stakeout .45, I purchased a parkerized Tank Commander .45. This pistol shot acceptably, not particularly accurate, and had the same flaws as above. However, it had a third flaw in that it would not eject a live round. The ejector as installed by the factory was the longest such part I'd ever seen, even longer than a 9mm ejector - ridiculously long. The pistol ejected fired brass but an unfired round coiuld not be removed from the barrel. I decided to repair this myself (I'm a Colt 1911 armorer) and shortened the extractor to correct Commander length and reprofiled it for correct ejection. To an assembler or inspector who know what he was doing, this problem would have been obvious, so it gave me pause concerning Tisas.

I saw the nickel plated Stakeout in 9mm/Super 38 combo model that has been mentioned and purchased one. Once again, the mag catch and plunger springs were wrong, and replaced. The pistol was very accurate with the Super 38 barrel. However, extracting factory live rounds was balky, the the rifling was engraving the chambered bullet in various 130 grain FMJ ammunition. Apparently the chamber leade was incorrectly cut. This was with Aguila and Winchester factory FMJ ammo, Corbon JHP ammo, and various 125 grain JHP handloads, all measuring to correct cartridge OAL and easily clearing a cartridge check gauge.

I returned this one to SDS Imports with photos and a description of the problem. Two weeks later the pistol comes back to me with no repairs or replacements whatsoever performed. Note said "6 rounds of factory ammo fired without a problem". Well uh duh... the problem was not firing but extracting of a live round as was well-described. The "technicians" they employ in Tennessee obviously cannot read, nor do they give a rats behind about the customer's issue.

A couple months before this, I had purchased an SDS Imports MAC 2 Tactical shotgun. It worked great. I decided to buy another in nickel finish. This second one would not function with Winchester factory full-power 00 buckshot: failures to extract about 80% of the time. This is the type of ammo SDS says you must "break-in" the shotgun with, functioned 100% in the first MAC 2 I purchased, and every other shotgun I own. Comparing this specimen to the Benelli M2 it was copied from, it appeared to me that the extractor was incorrectly fit and sprung in the bolt head, and the chamber leade had somewhat of a rough finish.

So I sent this second one back to SDS with photos of the problem. A month later the shotgun gets returned with no repairs done, with a note: "Fired 5 rounds of 1-14 oz 1330 fps field load with no issues." Well that's real nice, but a tactical shotgun that will not work with US factory full-power buckshot is not acceptable.

Based on these experiences with SDS/Tisas, I'm gonna conclude they are a typical Turkish firearms product: sometimes you get a good one, and when you don't, the customer service is bottom-tier.

I won't be buying any more of them.
 
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As of two minutes ago PSA had the 1911A in Electroless Nickel 9mm/38 Super Combo back in stock for $429...!:eek:

Cheers!
 
The ASF models have the old style ejection port. If you want a model like that, then that's what you want. I bought the one with the larger port. It looks close enough to me and was cheap. Sales come and go so if you're patient, you can find what you want. Forged frame, slide and barrel.
 
I bought the 9mm Sting Ray model and after 600 or so rds, I had trouble with the extractor. Sent it back and go it back with a note they adjusted the extractor and polished the feed ramp. Same problem developed after another 5 or 600 rds and I took it to a local gunsmith who worked on the extractor. It has been fine since, but had to stop shooting when it got cold. The smith said the guns are not made to military specs and lots of aftermarket parts won't fit. I like the gun and hope to get it working properly.

The extractor problems seem to be worse in the 9mm versions.
 
The majority of M1911 clones are made to use military spec parts. An extractor that needs frequent adjustment is likely an extractor that needs to be replaced with a higher quality part. Ideally, the M1911 extractor should be machined from a bar and heat treated so that it acts like spring steel. Unfortunately, most production 1911 clones today come with cast steel or MIM extractors and these generally do not have spring like qualities.
 
lot's of satisfied people in this thread.. I am not one of them. Sample size of one that had extraction issues.. Customer Service was the absolute worst I have ever experienced from a Gun Company. Based on that, they will never get another dime from me. Your results may vary.
 
lot's of satisfied people in this thread.. I am not one of them. Sample size of one that had extraction issues.. Customer Service was the absolute worst I have ever experienced from a Gun Company. Based on that, they will never get another dime from me. Your results may vary.

Details please. Was yours .45 9mm or .38 Super?
 
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