Dillon 550

[jrplourde]

Just got delivery of my new machine. It comes with large primer set up but I wanted to start with 9mm. Had to change the primer slide. The primer slide is allowed to float side to side and only the front to rear is set with a set screw. The trick here is to not lock down the primer feed until you locate the primer cup centered in the shell plate. Then lock it down. At that same point you can lock the front to back set screw. Worked for me after several minutes.

WOW do I love this machine. The manual index is as flexible as a turret press but with the capability of a progressive.

After lots of time messing with a Lee Pro 1000 (fragile toy) this machine is a machine and not a toy.

Sorry for the Lee folks

Bob

 

[Wayne M]

Bought a 550B in 1993 I believe and it has over 50,000 on it now(nowhere near a record, I know) according to my records. A year or so ago I called Dillon to get a part for it which finally gave up. At the time it had run about 42,000. I told the customer rep about the round count and his response was "Don't worry, you'll get it broken in eventually." Fantastic machine.

 

[Amici]

The weak link in the 550 setup is the primer system, which de and re-primes in the same position. This means the gritty residue from the old primer dumps right onto the area the primer feed slides along (Yes, the Hornady LNL de and re-primes at separate points).

Keep this area clean! And don't overtighten the knurled knob that holds the primer feed tube in, or you may deform the feed lips on the plastic tip.

Hint: Get several primer refill tubes in each size; you'll save time refilling your machine's primer tube.

 

[Littledragon777]

The weak link in the 550 setup is the primer system, which de and re-primes in the same position. This means the gritty residue from the old primer dumps right onto the area the primer feed slides along (Yes, the Hornady LNL de and re-primes at separate points).

Keep this area clean! And don't overtighten the knurled knob that holds the primer feed tube in, or you may deform the feed lips on the plastic tip.

Hint: Get several primer refill tubes in each size; you'll save time refilling your machine's primer tube.

I agree with the primer feed as being the weak point in the press. It will get dirty, clogged and will cause a lot of problems if not watched closely. One other things is that my press jerks a lot on the down stroke due to my powder crop and flare tube sticking somewhat in the recharged case as I pull the handle back down. This causes my empty case to wiggle a little somethimes and cause a mashed primer that tried to get seated with the case not properly lined up. If not mashed completely the primer will be flattened on one side a little as it tries to seat crooked in the empty shell case. This only happens a couple times for every 100 to 200 rounds I load so I gues I can live with it.

 

[Wayne M]

The primer situation you just need to live with and be aware of. The sticking on the powder funnel is handled either by lightly polishing with superfine paper or tumbling your brass well in your brass polisher/cleaner before loading it. Also, new brass which has not be chamfered can stick really hard. I always polish everything before loading and don't seem to have a problem. Valid points though, guys.

 

[Smith357]

I too recently picked up a 550 that had been sitting in a buddy's basement unused for years, I too also have used a Lee 1000 for many years to load my .38 specials. After much tweaking and adding of a few shims here and there the Lee does a good job and will remain my dedicated .38 wadcutter press. Though the Dillon is the better machine by far the Lee has a couple of trump cards on the Dillon making it the faster of the two. The two biggest advantages is the case feeder and the whole primer feeding setup. For me I like the case feeder, I don't have to mess with the brass and the lead at the same time.

The big advantage of the Lee is the priming system, when the Lee runs low on primers you just remove the tray, dump in primers, shake, and replace. With the Dillon loading up primers means I have to take time to fill each and every primer into a tube then transfer them to another tube, that's a lot of wasted time every 100 rounds. Don't get me wrong the Dillon is the better press, it could really use a redesign of the primer system to make it the perfect press.

 

[Duskykiller]

Keep a small can of compressed air by the press to blow away the primer residue on the up stoke. Also be very careful of oil on the ram it will get in the primer set up. I use two 550 one for small primer one for large. This is the perfect set up for me.

 

[Texasflyboy]

The trick here is to not lock down the primer feed until you locate the primer cup centered in the shell plate. Then lock it down. At that same point you can lock the front to back set screw. Worked for me after several minutes. Bob

What I do for a speedy set is to press the handle forward and raise the primer ram into the shell plate and ensure its centered. Then I tighten the screws. It self aligns this way. If this is what you describing, then that is the faster way to center the primer ram in the 1st station shell plate.

 

[jbouwens]

Keep a small can of compressed air by the press to blow away the primer residue on the up stoke. Also be very careful of oil on the ram it will get in the primer set up. I use two 550 one for small primer one for large. This is the perfect set up for me.

I keep a toothbrush handy to remove the grit there or if I get a little media in the priming cup from the "cleaned brass".

 

[H Richard]

Keep a small can of compressed air by the press to blow away the primer residue on the up stoke. Also be very careful of oil on the ram it will get in the primer set up. I use two 550 one for small primer one for large. This is the perfect set up for me.

I keep a 1" paint brush next to my 550, and brush out the primer residue. Has worked for me since 1983.

 

[huang]

I use a 550 for 45, 357,9mm, and soon 223. I clean the primer setup good for every caliber change. I am also a wood worker, so I add some Drilube (paste wax would work too) to the primer slide and plate. The application of the Drilube does help eveything to run smoothly.

Ric

 

[jrplourde]

The primer situation you just need to live with and be aware of. The sticking on the powder funnel is handled either by lightly polishing with superfine paper or tumbling your brass well in your brass polisher/cleaner before loading it. Also, new brass which has not be chamfered can stick really hard. I always polish everything before loading and don't seem to have a problem. Valid points though, guys.

After handling by guns I wipe them down with a sheep skin coated with RIG (sort of a grease). Why not wipe the powder funnel with the same stuff so it doesn't stick after neck expansion.

Bob

 

[FrankD45]

After handling by guns I wipe them down with a sheep skin coated with RIG (sort of a grease). Why not wipe the powder funnel with the same stuff so it doesn't stick after neck expansion.

Bob

The short answer is that the powder will stick to the lube and probably cause bridging and inaccurate powder throws. I have had my 550 since May of 1986 and have never had a problem with the funnel sticking. That is probably due to the fact that I am anal about polishing brass. I tumble my brass before I start processing so I believe any grime in the case neck is cleaned and sticking is avoided. Someone mentioned earlier, the Dillon is a machine in every sense of the word.

Frank