Dislike unfluted cylinders and lugged barrels

[David the Gnome]

Typically speaking guns are about "necessary", they're about "want".

I prefer a fluted cylinder but I have no qualms with a full lug barrel.

 

[batmann]

Sir, you are spot on.
I like fluted cyls and normal barrels. My only expection to the barrel thing in on the 629 'Classics'. The extra weight does help if you are using it for a hunting piece and using 'heavy' loads.
I too like the Mountain Guns barrel profile, reminds me of the long gone .44 Special days.

 

[4inch357]

I don't care for the full underlugs either - especially on 6" and longer barrels. Don't like the balance.

 

[hastings]

I don't mind the look of the full underlug, or the unfluted cylinder, but I think them make the most sense when there is a purpose behind them. An unfluted cylinder on a high pressure hunting sixgun makes sense, as does a 5 shot cylinder. I like the full underlug on J-frame 357mag snubbies and the L-frame 586/686 because these revolvers are shooting a high-pressure round and are fairly light to begin with. I guess a full underlug on a N-frame or X-frame makes sense, except that I have always prefered magnum rounds out of a single action revolver that rolls up in my hand under recoil. I prefer the roll to the extra weight of the full underlug. To me, the rolling action a single action makes under recoil does more to alleviate heavy recoil than hanging a barbell of the end of the barrel. Plus, if the revolver isn't handy, and well balanced I might as well get a Desert Eagle or carry a Marlin Guide Gun in a hip-holster.
I think an N-frame 45colt or 45acp with a tapered barrel is the epitome of "classic". A lot of the underlug trend may be based on the visual machismo-factor appeal the full underlug adds. A nice 4" barreled 686 with a set of ahrend grips is a truly sexy handgun. On the other hand, a pencil barreled 6" model 10 points like it's part of your own body, and a my 4" tapered barrel 45colt Mountain Gun clears leather much faster than my 4" barreled 25-5 45colt with the heavy barrel. A full underlug and a unfluted cylinder may add recoil dampening weight for faster follow-up shots, but it's usually the first one that counts, and the first one is faster with a lighter handgun (unless you are Jerry Miculek, in which case it doesn't seem to matter).

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

This one soaks up the 44 recoil pretty well.

 

[tbury]

For me Perfection is a 6.5 inch N-frame, with fluted cyl, lug enclosed ejector rod and ramp length of the barrel ending in a Patridge sight. That is to my eye the most balanced beautiful S&W; square butt of course. I do own a 29-3 6" Classic Hunter with full-lug, and unfluted cyl., a 625 5" with full lug and a 686 6" with Hunter sight. I also own a 625 Mountain gun in 45 colt. The full-lug guns shoot great but so does the mountain gun. I think of the three full-lug guns the 5" looks as good as it shoots but the mountain gun looks better especially after I put round to square conversion grips on it. Right now my full-lug guns are out voted 17-3 among my S&Ws. My point is I prefer old style but that will not prevent me from buying a useful new style. Variety is the spice of life.

 

[Denver Dick]

Generally, I'm not a big fan of the full lugs and unfluted cylinders. But, sometimes . . .

 

[Hunt200]

I don't like unfluted cylinders also. Don't own any won't buy any.

 

[scooter123]

I too am not a fan of the full underlug. I have a 6 1/2 inch 610 and currently shoot it miserably in rapid fire drills. I am doing well to get a 6 inch grouping at 30 feet with a 1/2 second split. In comparison, I can group under 3 inches with my model 67 at the same split time. The problem is the swing weight of the gun. While that heavy barrel does reduce the muzzle flip, I find that when I try and bring the gun back to the target it will swing past my point of aim due to simple inertia. The good news is that fighting that mass has really helped my accuracy with my semi auto's in rapid fire.

Even so, many time I look at the 610 and wonder what effect taking a band saw to that underlug would have on the accuracy. After sawing it down I could clamp it up in a mill and use a rounding over bit to reshape it to a half lug profile. Then a bit of finishing with a Dynafile, Scotchbrite EXL wheel and I could have it looking like a factory job. Problem is I've seen what happens when cutting cold worked steel and suspect I would end up with a curved barrel. So, I'll leave it alone and hope that someday S&W will make another run of 3 inch 610's.

As for the unfluted cylinders, they just don't look right to me, however it wouldn't stop me from buying a gun that I really wanted.

 

[Sportsterguy]

I like em all !!!!

 

[Revolver King]

I like em all !!!!

+1 especially the unfluted cylinders.

 

[cmort666]

The only revolvers that should have full lugs are Pythons and Diamondbacks.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Nygma-

If S&W would have made the L frames with the full lug and stopped right there, that would have been a nice change from the norm, but they didn't. I have a 25-7 without flutes, and I have checked into finding and having a cylinder from a 57, or 29 fitted and reamed, but this gun shoots so well, that I just cannot make the change. I prefer the blackpowder chamfer as well. I have checked with Williams GS about having flutes milled into one of my cylinders, but it would be cost prohibitive.

It seems that over time, and as I've owned several non-fluted guns that they are growing on me a little.

I wouldn't want flutes on my F/A 83. I like them the way they come, but I still prefer the fluted cylinder for all others revolvers, except custom 5 holers from Linebaugh, Bowen, Clements, etc.

I like full lugged barrels on certain guns, but mainly prefer the old standard half lugs, fluted cylinders.

To me, many of the new Smiths look like something out of a Buck Rodgers flick.

 

[Sgt. Rock]

I have both and like both. Just depends on my mood that day/week/month ect ect. Just bought this one and the full lug and unfluted cylinder make a difference in this little beast.

My perfect woods gun. 629 .44mag 3"

 

[Nygma]

I wouldn't want flutes on my F/A 83. I like them the way they come,

I have one unfluted revolver. It is a Freedom Arms 454 I bought new in 1992 with additional cylinders in 45 Long Colt, and 45 Winchester Magnum.
At that time all Freedom Arms guns were unfluted. Now, Freedom Arms lists fluted cylinders as being a $59 option on this gun (now called the Model 83). Their option/price sheet also lists $59 as the price for a retrofit flute job. I'm seriously contemplating sending mine back after hunting season for $177 worth of work.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Nygma-
A friend of mine on another forum, has an 83 exactly like mine (7.5" octag bbl, .475 Line.), but he also got the extra cylinder in 480 with his. Now days, the extra cylinder's are usually fluted when bought with a new gun. I saw his, and while it looks good, it just doesn't look right with the octagonal bbl.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Some look good , some dont.

The Mountain gun is my favorite; so I am with you on a preference for fluted cylinders and half length underlugs. But it's nice to have options to choose from.

I go with these observations. Generally, don't like unfluted cylinders-they seem unfinished to me. Like the underlugs on 4" barrels-not on longer ones-but I like the 27 contour with rib, but I also like the 38/44 HD model 20 contour without rib, but I also like the model 13, 58, 65 contour. What would look neet is a Stainless Model 20 with no lock in .357 with 8 shots. Or a stainless Model 58 no lock chambered in .357-again 8 shots. COme to think of it the only underlug I really like is on a 4" 686 or a 681, but a 681 with a model 65 contour barrel would be neat as well. I would also prefer my 617 with a model 18 contour barrel-but in stainless rather than blued BUt then again, a stainless model 45 10 shot would be the cats knutzes too.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I am definitely against unfluted cylinders - no added strength, and wholly unnecessarily increased stress on the cylinder stop.

I happen not to prefer full-lugged barrels, but some folks like them because they reduce recoil or, in their opinion, improve balance. I'd rather carry less weight, and I usually like standard-weight barrels better for shooting, too.

As the Romans used to say, "De gustibus non disputandum est," which I believe is Latin for "Don't spit on your goose." Makes no sense to me, but I guess there's no point in arguing about taste.

 

[frogger]

I am sure you are not alone, but I'm not with you. I really like the look of the unfluted cylinder. I also like the full lug on some guns. The added weight helps with muzzle flip and I think makes the gun a bit stronger. For a carry gun, I would prefer a fluted cylinder and a shorter lug for weight reasons. I just can't rule the features out totally.

 

[DonD]

I am definitely against unfluted cylinders - no added strength, and wholly unnecessarily increased stress on the cylinder stop.

While the effect of lack of flutes on strength is a subject of debate, assuming equal metallurgical quality, the extra mass of the unfluted cylinder HAS to result in greater strength. Just a fact of materials science. To argue otherwise is nonsense. How significant the difference is, who knows for sure?

Personally, I like both styles and the unfluted look goes well with the big, shrouded barrels of the X-frames. Don