NEW M&P 15-22 CLEANING QUESTION

You guys should try this CLP called SUPER SLICK SLICK STUFF. Its about 10$ a can but works great at blasting anything from residue to sand and any kind of grime. Its safe for composite material, I use that on every gun I have then a little Hoppes for the bore. Ace hardware has it. There is also this other stuff called SAFARI CHARLIES(made by same comp.) but looking at the contents its exactly the same, except for that its $16.Seriously, everyone should try this stuff at least once. Do yourself, no, your guns a favor.
 
I use wal-mart brand blue can (tech 2000) brake cleaner with no adverse effects at all. I was a little nervous at first but after cleaning it 10 times now with it I feel safe using it. On other polymer guns in the past gun scrubber would eat the plastic so I switched to brake cleaner. I use the wal-mart stuff on my glocks also with no issues. $2.95 a can vs. $12.99 for gun scrubber that melts plastic from my experience.
 
not sure what the 6 month bump was for ;) but i'd highly recommend M-Pro 7 LPX for around $7-8. supposedly a revolution to "CLP". more importantly though you can leave it on your hands without any adverse effects, and it has a nice green color and doesn't smell too bad.
 
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Another Clevelander here...

The M16 should be cocked and the safety ON before separating the receivers -- and when reassembling them. The M&P15 is no different.

The bolt carrier group can come out before or after separating the receivers, but since it tends to fall out (!) when they're separated it's probably best to just pull it as you crack the receivers open.

The only "tools" you need for cleaning the rifle are a bore snake, shop rags, and a toothbrush. The same CLP you use for the 5.56mm version works just as well here. No "solvents" and certainly no grease needed.

-- Chuck
Hey Chuck.... I'm in Avon and have had this rifle since early January. I've only been able to go shooting twice with it as no ammo seems to be available.. I've taken it to B&T in Lorain where i purchased it. I've got some accessories for it and really like it. I'm more of a western style rifle guy(lever action) and only do .22 so I'm really hurting with this shortage of ammo.
 
And above all else be very carefull with the ejector... some people have damaged it cleaning their rifle... might wanna put a plastic piece of straw over it to protect it...
 
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And above all else be very carefull with the extractor... some people have damaged it cleaning their rifle... might wanna put a plastic piece of straw over it to protect it...

That's the ejector, not the extractor. The extractor is integral to the bolt and is not a problem. :)
 
The AR cleaning instructions generally apply, but there are exceptions with regard to the 15-22. For example, the S&W manual shows the safety set prior to separating the upper and lower and gives a warning not to dry fire. Dry firing the center fire AR-15 is a different story and is OK. The charging handle and bolt of the 15-22 are also removed before pulling the front pin and completely separating upper and lower. Bottom line, use the disassembly/assembly instructions in the 15-22 manual, but follow the actual cleaning steps in the video.

This is so the hammer doesn't hit the polymer lower. What I do is put it on safe, pull the upper off, than put it on fire, hold the hammer and pull the trigger and let up the hammer slowly. That way if I'm taking off the grip I don't have to worry about the safety moving and accidentally dry firing. YMMV, but I don't like that possibility.
 
Dry firing the 15-22 has zero impact on the rifle. The problem occurs in firearms where the firing pin is long enough to hit the bolt face. In the 15-22, the firing pin is several thousandths too short to reach the bolt face.

Letting the hammer hit the lower with the upper off is a totally different matter.
 
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