Looking at a 3" 629... is it an LH?

bennyj

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Hello All,
New to the forum and my first post here. I had a 657 a few years back but found it too ungainly with the long 7.5" full underlug. Went to single actions for a while and now am looking at a 629. I was set on a new 5" full underlug, but got a chance to handle an unfluted 3" a few days ago and really liked it. It was a trail boss I believe.

Anyway, I like the looks of flutes, and i found a 629-4 for sale advertised as a lew horton model. I really don't care if it is or isn't. Just want a good gun. Do want to make sure it is the original barrel / not a rebarrel though (just me). Also like that it is a little "vintage" with the hammer mounted pin / forged parts, although again, if the price is too much I'll be happy with a new 5" gun. What would be a fair price for one of these?

Thanks for any thoughts...
ben
 

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Hello All,
New to the forum and my first post here. I had a 657 a few years back but found it too ungainly with the long 7.5" full underlug. Went to single actions for a while and now am looking at a 629. I was set on a new 5" full underlug, but got a chance to handle an unfluted 3" a few days ago and really liked it. It was a trail boss I believe.

Anyway, I like the looks of flutes, and i found a 629-4 for sale advertised as a lew horton model. I really don't care if it is or isn't. Just want a good gun. Do want to make sure it is the original barrel / not a rebarrel though (just me). Also like that it is a little "vintage" with the hammer mounted pin / forged parts, although again, if the price is too much I'll be happy with a new 5" gun. What would be a fair price for one of these?

Thanks for any thoughts...
ben

That is about a $800-$900 gun in my neck of the woods. Don't buy it because it might be a Lew Horton, buy it because it is a stainless steel short barrled, round butt, 44 magnum with a hammer mounted firing pin, no MIM parts and no lock. Who distributed it is merley interesting; party trivia, and is not what should drive the price.

I bought the revo below that was advertised as a Lew Horton because the seller assumed that the 3" barrel and non fluted cylinder made it one. Revos like this in Arizona go QUICK so there is alot of buy first and ask questions later if you are remotley interested in it.

I bought it, and later found out through Lew Horton, that it was not one of theirs. Was I disapointed....not at all, because I bought it for whatit is not who distributed it. Buy what you like and you will never regret it.


 
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what he said....

That is about a $800-$900 gun in my neck of the woods. Don't buy it because it might be a Lew Horton, buy it because it is a stainless steel short barrled, round butt, 44 magnum with a hammer mounted firing pin, no MIM parts and no lock. Who distributed it is merley interesting; party trivia, and is not what should drive the price.

I bought the revo below that was advertised as a Lew Horton because the seller assumed that the 3" barrel and non fluted cylinder made it one. Revos like this in Arizona go QUICK so there is alot of buy first and ask questions later if you are remotley interested in it.

I bought it, and later found out through Lew Horton, that it was not one of theirs. Was I disapointed....not at all, because I bought it for whatit is not who distributed it. Buy what you like and you will never regret it.



It is what it is...the middle man who sold it is irrelevant, but absolutely fascinating party banter....If you like it, get it before it's gone! ;)
 
My 29-6 Talo with the "plug" and some not so pretty MIM parts. It is still a thing of beauty and shoots like a dream after a little cleaning and oiling. And now with the plug installed it has a 2 lb SA and about 9 DA and has really impressed me with the close in SD rapid fire accuracy.

It has tied first place as my favorite center-fire revolver with my old Dan Wesson Model 15 357 magnum. Believe me that is saying a lot from this old DW owner an fan. ;)

SANY0025.jpg
 
S&W offered a 3" fluted (product code 103450) in 1994 called the Backpacker. I believe that's what you have, especially given the fact your serial number dates to 1994.

S&W also offered a 3" unfluted in 1994 (product code 170026).

Neither were Lew Hortons.

Jim
 
S&W offered a 3" fluted (product code 103450) in 1994 called the Backpacker. I believe that's what you have, especially given the fact your serial number dates to 1994.

S&W also offered a 3" unfluted in 1994 (product code 170026).

Neither were Lew Hortons.

Jim

I agree. I have a 'backpacker' purchased new in 1994 (indicated on the box) with a serial number only 100 less than yours. My box has the MSRP sticker on it of $579.50 but as I recall I got it for about $500. Mine has the wood factory Smith round butt, finger groove grips and I don't believe it came with the hogue's your photos show. I could be mistaken however, and changed them shortly after the purchase. I can't find any hogue's around in that configuration, but again, I might be wrong here. If it has the box and paperwork, is NIB, the my guess is it is a $1000 gun. Without the box etc, scratch one hundred bucks or so. They did not make many 'backpackers' (labeled as such on the box) so get it while you can. The 629-4 is arguably one of the most desireable of the 629's in all configurations for all the reasons mentioned earlier.
 
The 629s are the most common 3" N-frames, and the least fun to shoot with factory ammo. I'd say $750 tops.
 
The 629s are the most common 3" N-frames, and the least fun to shoot with factory ammo. I'd say $750 tops.
Hummmm, with arthritic hands that keeps me up sometimes at night and has me no longer doing my favorite hobby of turning wrenches on old collectible cars I find my 3" Talo N frame easy to shoot with factory ammo, including CorBon PD ammo.

Maybe you're not holding the gun proper, other wise.....;)

Also taking off the silly wood grips that has the metal frame contacting your hand will relieve most of your recoil problems I am sure. I've never fired mine with the factory wood on the gun, here is the gun as it sits now in the trunk ready for range trip in about an hour.

SANY0022.jpg
 
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I have a 3" 629 Backpacker. I shoot it with Hogues and I can handle almost anything recoil-wise. It's about a $800-900 dollar piece around here. As the Ohio and Michigan bear populations grow quickly now, lotsa folks want a 3" .44 mag. Mighty handy. Good catch. Who cares about the Lew Horton part?
 
I have a 3" 629 Backpacker. I shoot it with Hogues and I can handle almost anything recoil-wise. It's about a $800-900 dollar piece around here. As the Ohio and Michigan bear populations grow quickly now, lotsa folks want a 3" .44 mag. Mighty handy. Good catch. Who cares about the Lew Horton part?
I have wondered why S&W doesn't have one as standard product for some time now, but instead they have to be ordered by big retailer/wholesaler. :confused:
 
Hummmm, with arthritic hands that keeps me up sometimes at night and has me no longer doing my favorite hobby of turning wrenches on old collectible cars I find my 3" Talo N frame easy to shoot with factory ammo, including CorBon PD ammo.

Maybe you're not holding the gun proper, other wise.....;)

Also taking off the silly wood grips that has the metal frame contacting your hand will relieve most of your recoil problems I am sure. I've never fired mine with the factory wood on the gun, here is the gun as it sits now in the trunk ready for range trip in about an hour.

SANY0022.jpg

I've heard others recommend losing the wood grips even though they "look good." I'm weighing the purchase of the model 686 Plus TALO vs. the 629 TALO. Do you have any direct shooting comparison between the two models? If not, I hear you saying that this 3" 629 is easy to shoot - any advice concerning the L frame vs. N frame? Thanks.
 
I've heard others recommend losing the wood grips even though they "look good." I'm weighing the purchase of the model 686 Plus TALO vs. the 629 TALO. Do you have any direct shooting comparison between the two models? If not, I hear you saying that this 3" 629 is easy to shoot - any advice concerning the L frame vs. N frame? Thanks.
I have large hands, they are not fat or thick, but normal in proportion to my body. I have tried several K & L frame guns in 22 and 357 but did not like any of them and the 3" 357 I had some 4 or 5 years ago or more hurt my hand bad enough that after two or three range visits I sent it down the road.

So now all my S&W revolvers are N frame models and I will never own another K/L frame gun again. As for the 3" 686 it was a used gun that I bought real cheap, have no idea if it was special Talo or not. I didn't get the box and gave less then $300 for the gun from a guy at a gun show. That and two other S&W K/L frame guns are the only S&W guns I have never regretted selling.

I have never understood the reason for leaving the back strap on these guns exposed which allows the direct transfer of recoil and the vibrations direct impact on the hand. It just defies logic to me, an every S&W I own has Pachmayr grips to solve this problem and they really make a difference.
 
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think i'll have to pass...

:( the auction has it just under 1k right now. it sat a day or two with my bid at 800. hope i didn't alert anyone here to it ny posting the pics:eek: anyway, i'll have to keep looking. thanks for all the comments...nice forum
bennyj
 
:( the auction has it just under 1k right now. it sat a day or two with my bid at 800. hope i didn't alert anyone here to it ny posting the pics:eek: anyway, i'll have to keep looking. thanks for all the comments...nice forum
bennyj
Been there done that and won't do it again. :eek:

After the second time I did it, it dawned on me it was not a smart thing to do. :(

I'm a slow learner I guess. :D
 

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