Hammer Bobbing...opinions, please.

I bobbed this M36 and did an action job on it over 50 years ago and it has never failed to ignite anything it chambered.
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I bobbed and did an action job on this M625-3 was bobbed and it never failed to ignite anything it chambered.
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I bobbed and did an action job on this 646 and it never failed to ignite anything it chambered, about 20,000 rounds when I stopped shooting it in IDPA several years ago.
I hasn't been cleaned or shot in well over 10 years and the lube is probably tacky so I'm sure a clean and lube would drop down the DA pull a half pound or so.
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This 686-4 KSB still has the hammer but was tuned by the KSP armorer in Frankfort to ignite the Federal 125 HS that they were currently using.
It has never failed to ignite a Federal primer shooting DA but is not 100% on anything else.
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I bought this PC 627-5 used and a former owner had damaged the muzzle and it shot patterns instead of groups.
I re-crowned it and now it's a one ragged hole shooter so it will get a bobbed hammer as well as an action job.
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As has been pointed out in a number of posts a bobbed hammer actually improves ignition due to it's faster speed.
An additional benefit is the ability to get a higher grip without the hammer spur poking the web of your hand.

Years ago Randy Lee of Apex Tactical demonstrated the power of his speed hammers by launching a pencil across the room.

Cheers
James
Launching pencils!

Oh man that gives me a great idea
 
The hammers in most of my revolvers (J, K and N frames) are spurless. I never had any ignition problems whether the firing pin is mounted on the hammer or in the frame.

The one interesting exception is a Redhawk that I had done by Bowen. I told him I wanted the spur cut off. At first he was reluctant to do it, saying nobody had ever requested this and believing it would compromise ignition. I explained that S&W revolvers never have problems and he then removed the spur. Years later after thousands of trouble free rounds this revolver would develop ignition problems. To make a long story short, the problem was eventually attributed to wear on the transfer bar. And in this case a transfer bar is not necessarily a simple drop in fit. Since then I have always been wary of transfer bar ignition.
 
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