Which 686 to buy?

[youngda9]

I'm trying to figure out which 686 dash number I would like to buy.

I want to buy something -4 or less because I don't want the MIM parts(-5 and after) of the "hillary hole"(introduced with -6).

Can someone provide a more detailed description of the dash history...what did each modification accomplish and what was the reason for the new revision? Is there a reason that I should stay to a dash number greater than X because a certain modification was quite important?

History:
686 ''dash nothing'' - 1980
686-1, 1986 - radius stud package and floating hand
686-2, 1987, hammer nose change, bushing and ass'd parts
686-3, 1988, new yoke retention system
686-4 (1993): drilled & tapped frame, new rear sight leaf, changed extractor, start shipping w/ Hogue grips

 

[18DAI]

The 686-4 is widely regarded as having all the best engineering changes and none of the "innovations" that you mentioned.

The 686-4+ was only made for one year. So you can get the best of the six shot 686's and the best of the seven shot 686's in one revision model.

My 4" 686-4+ is a well made, good looking tack driver. I'll be keeping it. Good luck with your search for a 686-4! Regards 18DAI.

 

[Stainz]

In my case, some six years ago, the choice of a 686+, a 686-6, was a no-brainer. The 2004 Stocking Dealer Exclusive was my choice - the only partially lugged 686! Okay, it is a 5"-er - with MIM & IL, not deal breakers for me. New, it came as shown - Ahrends grips and a HiViz sight (Not seen - V-notch rear, too!).

New, it sat unloved - priced $10 less than a 4" 686. Ultimately, I traded away my first-ever DA revolver - my early model 7.5" .454 SRH - to fund it. Great revolver... at least until the 627 Pro came along 2.5 yr ago - cobweb city now. Still, nice revolver... even if I am fickle! Sorry for the diversion!

Stainz

 

[augy]

686's

I'm trying to figure out which 686 dash number I would like to buy.

I want to buy something -4 or less because I don't want the MIM parts(-5 and after) of the "hillary hole"(introduced with -6).

Can someone provide a more detailed description of the dash history...what did each modification accomplish and what was the reason for the new revision? Is there a reason that I should stay to a dash number greater than X because a certain modification was quite important?

History:
686 ''dash nothing'' - 1980
686-1, 1986 - radius stud package and floating hand
686-2, 1987, hammer nose change, bushing and ass'd parts
686-3, 1988, new yoke retention system
686-4 (1993): drilled & tapped frame, new rear sight leaf, changed extractor, start shipping w/ Hogue grips

I've had the 686, 686-1, and currently have 2 686-3's with the 2 1/2 inch barrels. (All mine were 2 1/2 inch barrels)

I really didn't see a problem with any of them, but I did notice the 686-3's seem to lock up very tight and have a nice smooth action.
I think any of them would be ok as long as their in good shape.
augy

 

[surfdog76]

Keep an eye out for a CS-1... Interesting background: The SMITH & WESSON 686 CS-1
Just picked up this one off gunbroker a couple of days ago for $449. The seller, an experienced FFL,
had it listed as a No-Dash... However the black front blade and round butt told me otherwise.
Not one to argue, I smiled and said, "Sir, that's a fine looking revolver, I'll take it." ;-)
I'm now searching for it's 3" brother.

 

[Chuck Jones]

The 686 was such a superbly made arm from the get go, I'd be choosing between barrel length, condition, sights, & capacity way before I'd worry about the dash number.

/c

 

[Flipside]

Keep an eye out for a CS-1... Interesting background: The SMITH & WESSON 686 CS-1
Just picked up this one off gunbroker a couple of days ago for $449. -snip-

$449? Sounds like it's either a typo, or the first of multiple payments. Damn - that's a STEAL at that price!

 

[surfdog76]

The 686 was such a superbly made arm from the get go, I'd be choosing between barrel length, condition, sights, & capacity way before I'd worry about the dash number.

+1. Another consideration might be whether you prefer a Square Butt or Round Butt.

E.g., I have a collection of K/L round butt grips (crimson trace, hogue, ahrends, etc.) that I want to be able to switch around between different K-frame revolvers,
so I would be interested in a round butt 686. Per the S&W Standard Catalog, the 686-4 changed from Square Butt to Round Butt in 1996 (it appears it started
around serial #'s in the CBCxxxx range). The 686-5 was introduced in 1997, which continued with the round butt, and the 686-6 is also Round Butt
(as was the 1988 CS-1, pictured above).

Here's an example of a Round Butt 686-4: S&W Smith & Wesson 686 .357 Mag 4" YOU MUST READ ! : Revolvers at GunBroker.com

 

[bountyhunter]

I have a 686-3 seven shot that has been a great gun.

 

[youngda9]

Thank you for all of the replies and input.

Could some comment on the bolded quote from my OP.

"Can someone provide a more detailed description of the dash history...what did each modification accomplish and what was the reason for the new revision?"

 

[Snapping Twig]

I can only comment on one issue specifically - the floating hand.

There are those that don't like them and there are those that can't tell the difference. It's said that the floating hand has disadvantages, but I haven't found them so far in the several I own. I have both.

Durability and reliability motivates the engineering changes.

Out of the revolvers you listed, I'd get the ND and the modification if needed, it wasn't a problem with all the ND, just a few.

I currently have a 586-1 w/o the M and it shoots everything well, so no need for the M.

 

[youngda9]

I just scored a 4" 686-4+ 7-shot revolver ! I think I did good !!!

Thanks for the info everyone.

 

[bassoneer]

I just scored a 4" 686-4+ 7-shot revolver ! I think I did good !!!

Thanks for the info everyone.

Congratulations! I just got a 686-4+ a couple of months ago and have been polishing on it here and there with Mother's Mag Polish. I already have a Simply Rugged holster for it in Oxblood, and Kim Ahrends is making a nice set of Cocobola grips for it as I type...should be in the mail next week. My favorite gun - I paid a little too much for it, but I knew that was what I wanted, and when I found it I bought it. Again, congratulations! B

 

[kwade]

Youngda9, I have been in the 686 business since the no dash models and believe me, the lock issue is no issue to me. I like looking at the key on my key-ring, it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling when I see the Smith & Wesson on the key when I start my vehicle.
I too have a 2004 Stocking Dealer Exclusive 686-6 Plus 5" half lug barrel like Stanz but it is NIB, I do not want to shoot it, I use my 686-6 6" Power Port, it is absolutely my favorite revolver. Not sure if it produced anymore, I highly recommend it above all 686's.

 

[roaddog28]

Hi,
Congrats on your 686-4. I just picked up my 686-2 4 inch yestersday. I had a 686-3 4 inch and foolishly traded the revolver for a S&W 5903 9 mm. While I love the 5903 I missed my 686-3. Ran into the -2 for $400. Personally, I don't see the differance in a -2 or -3. To me a pre-lock 686 is one of the best all around 357 magnum revolvers made.
Here is my new to me 686-2
Howard

 

[gasaman]

A couple months ago I bought this 686 no dash with the orig. target grips and box for $375-
I added these Jerry Miculek grips....