Model 13 verses Ruger GP100 3"

As expected the M13 has more fans here. Go to the Ruger forum and the reverse will be the case.

Both are excellent guns. The Ruger is tougher and will stand up better to more heavy magnum loads. The M13 is lighter, slimmer, trimmer and handles better to most, although this is subjective. The Ruger is still being made and will likely be easier to find later. However I have thought that of other guns, only to have them go out of production because I waited to long. To me blue v stainless is a non issue. Stainless requires less maintainance. Blue (usually) looks better. It really is a toss up.
 
In the end you will probably carry rhe 13 more. For reasons stated above.

Modern 38s like Buffalo Bore and Speer Short bbl loads push the old 38Spl load to a most respectable confidence inducing load. Unless you're planning on a shooting a boatload of 357s, I's go with the S&W

The 13 will always be worth more; even used.
 
Am a real fan of the model 13. Own several. However, a 3 inch GP100 is about perfect, looks wise, and feel wise. Oh, did I mention it will handle the 357 mag with ease. Buy the Ruger, simply because of 3 inch vs 4 inch.
JMHO, worth what you paid for it.
Tom
 
A 4" 13-2 has been my go-to piece for better than 25 years, and will be the one I keep when I'm down to selling my guns to eat. Buy the 13.

Larry
 
carry gun

My first criteria for a carry gun is ""Stainless Steel"". I see no reason to constantly worry about sweat, pitting, bluing wearing off, rust, etc. Ruger vs Smith. doesn't matter, flip a coin.
If you have to have a smith, 66, 686, SS,Etc..
So, are you going to carry? ---think SS----
In Ten years, that SS will shine up.
Mike
 
OK...had the meeting. I bought two guns...a 3" K frame Model 13 and a 3" Ruger GP100. I left the 4" K frame for another co-worker. I'll upload a photo tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for all the input, but I liked both and worked a fair deal with the seller. Thanks, B
 
you are on a Smith website, do you honestly expect unbiased answers. com on now
 
This is exactly what I was going to say!

Except for the special GP edition, that I hadn't heard. In fact, got any more info?

Yeah. It's designed by gun writer Wiley Clapp for a distributor. Has a three or four inch barrel with a Novak fixed rear sight and grips that are a checkered rubber edition of the earlier grip with the wood inserts. The back of the grip is checkered. Looks very nice in photos.
Join one of the Ruger forums and ask for someone to post a photo, or Search for one. You'll probably want one, if you like the GP-100. Don't know the price.

BTW, there have been some runs of the GP-100 with five-inch barrels, too.

NOTE: this was posted before I saw the photo on Page 2 here. I posted for you on the Ruger board that I'm on. Someone may post another pic there. http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/40234-need-photo-wiley-clapp-gp-100-special.html Keep an eye on that thread.

I'm glad that you got both guns, and hope that you can repair the M-13. The best way to eliminate the endshake is for a KNOWLEDGEABLE gunsmith to put the yoke on a mandrel and tap it with a hammer to lengthen the yoke rod or whatever it's called. Some do use shims, but the former Dallas police armorer told me that the way S&W armorers taught him was to tap the part on a mandrel, I think he called it. That will correct the shortening of the part due to repeated recoil.

I think you'll like that Ruger, and if it's stainless, you can polish out any scuffs or scratches that aren't too deep. Stainless has a VAST advantage in a carry gun, especially in hot, humid climates or around saltwater.

Please do post photos. Let us know how they shoot. I'd have S&W fix that endshake and reblue the gun, but you're looking at some fairly serious money to do that. I'd have tried to find a M-65 three-inch in really nice shape and not had to refinish it or repair anything. As you might guess, in this case, I'd have bought the Ruger, if it's in better shape, and to get the stainless construction. Your short GP-100 probably has the smaller grip that Lett used to furnish. I think you'll be delighted at the way it fits your hand. But the longer Lett grip on my four-inch GP stuck to my hand in recoil and tore the skin. I replaced it with a Pachmayr Gripper and have been very pleased. Tackiness varies, and older guns are less likely to cause this problem, as the rubber seems to harden a little with age. Some Ruger actions and triggers are very much better than others.
Put a couple of drops of Break-Free down in your action and use the gun. It'll probably smooth up pretty well. But the SA trigger pull will usually have a little more creep than on S&W's. Still, you can do exceptional shooting with a GP -100. And the weight does handle recoil well.

You bought a couple of really good guns. Pity that the M-13 needs work. If it has the wooden service stocks, it'll kick a lot with .357 ammo. Pachmayr round butt grips will help. DO NOT use much of the hot 125 grain .357 ammo. It will erode the barrel throat and top strap and may split the forcing cone. Stick to 140-158 grain bullets. The heavier ones aren't needed, either, and will recoil more and probably increase endshake sooner.
 
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Yeah. It's designed by gun writer Wiley Clapp for a distributor. Has a three or four inch barrel with a Novak fixed rear sight and grips that are a checkered rubber edition of the earlier grip with the wood inserts. The back of the grip is checkered. Looks very nice in photos.
Join one of the Ruger forums and ask for someone to post a photo, or Search for one. You'll probably want one, if you like the GP-100. Don't know the price.

BTW, there have been some runs of the GP-100 with five-inch barrels, too.

NOTE: this was posted before I saw the photo on Page 2 here. I posted for you on the Ruger board that I'm on. Someone may post another pic there. Need Photo of Wiley Clapp GP-100 Special - Ruger Forum Keep an eye on that thread.

I'm glad that you got both guns, and hope that you can repair the M-13. The best way to eliminate the endshake is for a KNOWLEDGEABLE gunsmith to put the yoke on a mandrel and tap it with a hammer to lengthen the yoke rod or whatever it's called. Some do use shims, but the former Dallas police armorer told me that the way S&W armorers taught him was to tap the part on a mandrel, I think he called it. That will correct the shortening of the part due to repeated recoil.

I think you'll like that Ruger, and if it's stainless, you can polish out any scuffs or scratches that aren't too deep. Stainless has a VAST advantage in a carry gun, especially in hot, humid climates or around saltwater.

Please do post photos. Let us know how they shoot. I'd have S&W fix that endshake and reblue the gun, but you're looking at some fairly serious money to do that. I'd have tried to find a M-65 three-inch in really nice shape and not had to refinish it or repair anything. As you might guess, in this case, I'd have bought the Ruger, if it's in better shape, and to get the stainless construction. Your short GP-100 probably has the smaller grip that Lett used to furnish. I think you'll be delighted at the way it fits your hand. But the longer Lett grip on my four-inch GP stuck to my hand in recoil and tore the skin. I replaced it with a Pachmayr Gripper and have been very pleased. Tackiness varies, and older guns are less likely to cause this problem, as the rubber seems to harden a little with age. Some Ruger actions and triggers are very much better than others.
Put a couple of drops of Break-Free down in your action and use the gun. It'll probably smooth up pretty well. But the SA trigger pull will usually have a little more creep than on S&W's. Still, you can do exceptional shooting with a GP -100. And the weight does handle recoil well.

You bought a couple of really good guns. Pity that the M-13 needs work. If it has the wooden service stocks, it'll kick a lot with .357 ammo. Pachmayr round butt grips will help. DO NOT use much of the hot 125 grain .357 ammo. It will erode the barrel throat and top strap and may split the forcing cone. Stick to 140-158 grain bullets. The heavier ones aren't needed, either, and will recoil more and probably increase endshake sooner.

The 3" Model 13 was actually in very good condition. Very little end shake...locks up pretty darn tight. I think my friend was a little too critical - it doesn't need repair at all. It will be a +P gun...I'll use the Ruger for the magnums. Photos tomorrow. B
 
The Ruger is the stronger of your two choices, but the Smith is the better revolver. Either one will serve you well, so get the one that feels best in your hand. Remember the M-13 is a K frame 38 special frame that can shoot .357 Magnum ammo, as needed.
 
I guess it all depends on what you want. If you want a collectors item and safe queen, get the S&W. It will not take a steady diet of 357 without shaking itself to pieces or cracking a forcing cone. It was made for shooting 38s and the occasional 357. Parts are getting hard to come by.

It you want a shooter that will reliably digest thousands of 357 rounds and and keep on going. Get the Ruger. If you do manage to finally break it, it is a production gun and parts are readily available. As previoulsy noted: one is a fragile throughbreed and one is a work horse that will get the job done.
 
Truth is most of us would be equally well served by either one if you shoot a lot of .38 Special. Truth be told, I shoot mostly .38's through all of my .357's anyway so I'm not worried about ever hurting my Model 66 and I am certainly not worried about my GP100's.

If you're the kinda guy who runs a few hundred .357's through the gun every range trip, go with the GP100.

If you adhere to S&W's original purpose of the K-Frame .357, the Model 13 3" will last you a lifetime. Train with .38's, load with .357's for carry. Plus the 3" 13 is much more packable than the chunkier GP100.
 
OK...had the meeting. I bought two guns...a 3" K frame Model 13 and a 3" Ruger GP100. I left the 4" K frame for another co-worker. I'll upload a photo tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for all the input, but I liked both and worked a fair deal with the seller. Thanks, B

Excellently done sir! You can't go wrong with either, and both is even better. Ending up with the 3" M13 over the 4" was a good path as well.

Good purcahse all around.
 
Here they are...neither appear to have been shot or carried much. I've never had a blued gun (except my grandfather's rifles/shotguns), but this one does not look worn out. Locks up tighter than some of my other guns...both look very nice to me. I cleaned them up this morning before church and took a photo...B

DSC00048-1.jpg


DSC00047-1.jpg
 
My holster-worn not-so-shiny 13-1 with a Roy Baker. Action is like brand new.

Those Pachmyer grips work for my big hands, some day I'll get something nicer.
100_0368Medium.jpg
 
Here is my 13-2 4 inch.
SWM13c.jpg


Quote:It you want a shooter that will reliably digest thousands of 357 rounds and and keep on going. Get the Ruger. Quote

Not always. Here is a picture of a GP100 that cracked a forcing cone shooting 125 gr high velocity 357 magnums.
crackedforcingconeGP100.jpg

Even a "built like a tank" Ruger GP100 will split a forcing cone shooting light gr ammo just like a K frame magnum.

Howard
 
How much were they asking for the GP? I am interested if the price is right.

Caj...if no one answered your question...Lipsey's has them for $829. Saw one on Gunbroker, starting bid $749 "reserve not met"...seller out of MO.
 
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